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200 Series General Forum for the Volvo 240 and 260 cars |
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New 240 suspension/engine adviceViews : 5843 Replies : 49Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Sep 22nd, 2021, 15:54 | #1 |
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New 240 suspension/engine advice
Hi I have just purchased a 1980 Volvo 244DL which was advertised locally.
I have been looking for a couple years now so had to buy when it popped up. Im currently at university and blown all my money on the new Volvo. Im planning long term to save up and eventually swap the engine, gearbox , add Coilover's etc. For the time being I want to do a couple slightly cheaper and smaller jobs. Starting with lowering slightly. On lowering springs alone how much can be dropped before clearance issues? (bearing in mind I live in London) With the engine what are the most cost effective power gains. I have been looking at different cams. Is there a specific one for street driving and getting a bit more low end torque people would recommend? As well as carb , exhaust, intake changes etc. Cheers in advance Olly |
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Sep 22nd, 2021, 18:19 | #2 |
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Hi,
Welcome to 240 ownership and the forum, great car choice You can lower a 240 cheaply and easily with 40mm lowering springs without running into any issues with either suspension geometry or scraping speed bumps. Depending on where you are in London a friend has almost exactly the same car as you with 40mm lowering springs fitted, which you might want to have a look at. Engine/power wise, you’re probably best off making sure everything is working properly as a start- the cam is probably an A cam, so not much scope to improve there- a V cam has slightly more lift but not enough to make much difference. You might find a k or h cam if you’re lucky. A Weber carb kit does exist, although tuning a n/a car costs quite a lot for the power gained. Obviously I’m going to say turbo swap it… Throw out any questions you have, there’s a lot of knowledge on this forum and someone will know the answer to anything you ask…. Cheers |
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Sep 22nd, 2021, 19:11 | #3 |
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Engine swop
My best tune up was fitting a 2.3 litre (2326cc which it was designed for) engine. The 2 ltr 1986cc is under powered and only used as a UK tax break.
The used 2.3 cost £265 plus fitting. That was 350k miles ago. BrianH 245 GL 1989 LPG 800K from new. Best car I ever had. Bomb proof!! Keep that oil Clean. |
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Sep 22nd, 2021, 19:32 | #4 |
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Super duper, that car looks really nice (my 244, the Royal Barge, is a 1980 GL auto - very similar to your motor car). I’d agree with Bugjam, the first thing to do is make sure what you have is running properly. Your motor will probably be a B21a 2.1, they are really simple cars and very easy to work on. Alan
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Sep 22nd, 2021, 19:59 | #5 |
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Suspension wise a set of 40mm lowering springs and new dampers will transform the car. I would also suggest replacing any worn bushes
Power wise I suspect you have a B21a. You could convert to fuel injection or go DCOE's along with a cam etc I would avoid spending twice if you can. If you want coilover get a decent set to start with, engine no point spending on mods that are only short term |
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Sep 22nd, 2021, 21:26 | #6 | |
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As it so happens I have a running 2.3 engine and manual gearbox for sale. £500 if it’s of use to you/ anyone. Engine is low mileage (only 130k) having had Volvo genuine timing belt/ tensioners done at 120k. Have a video showing it running v good condition. |
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Sep 22nd, 2021, 23:40 | #7 |
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Rhys Faulkner
Engine/power wise, you’re probably best off making sure everything is working properly as a start- the cam is probably an A cam, so not much scope to improve there- a V cam has slightly more lift but not enough to make much difference. You might find a k or h cam if you’re lucky. A Weber carb kit does exist, although tuning a n/a car costs quite a lot for the power gained. Obviously I’m going to say turbo swap
Dr Car Polisher |
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Sep 23rd, 2021, 10:31 | #8 |
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There is not that much between a B21 and B230 really but the B21 is by far the stronger bottom end
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Sep 23rd, 2021, 14:26 | #9 |
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Great thanks for this.
Yeah the engine in it only has 51k on it and no drivetrain noise, haven't got the car with me at uni so haven't had the chance to go over properly yet. Turbo was the route I was looking to go down (building the motor separately on the side) . Ideally looking for 200-250bhp range with still a decent sense of reliability. What is the best way to achieve this with still a bit of simplicity and not completely break the bank? |
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Sep 23rd, 2021, 14:27 | #10 | |
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Quote:
Yeah the engine in it only has 51k on it and no drivetrain noise, haven't got the car with me at uni so haven't had the chance to go over properly yet. Turbo was the route I was looking to go down (building the motor separately on the side) . Ideally looking for 200-250bhp range with still a decent sense of reliability. What is the best way to achieve this with still a bit of simplicity and not completely break the bank? |
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