Radiator - time to renew / refurb ?

[BLS07]

Happy Good Friday All!

My Amazon has B20A and still has the original radiator.

Radiator is getting a tad inefficient.
I’ve thoroughly flushed it, even soldered some minor but no less impactful issues, fully cleaned it up and repainted with the appropriate radiator paint.

It’ll do for now.
That said, I’m keen to ensure I don’t find myself hanging into what is an avoidable issue; rad goes bad. (Overheat)

Two core or to three core; is my question here.

It seems most replacement are three core / super-x etc.

I’d prefer the original spec two core.

Would be most grateful for any advice, shared wisdom and recommendations of where to best source a new or refurbed rad.

Cheers!

[Derek UK]

If the flushing went well, citric acid or similar, the fins are OK and it doesn't leak, use it and see what happens. If your water pump is good you should have no problems here in the UK. Amazons don't have a reputation for overheating if parts are in reasonable condition. Mine will sit ticking over for 30 mins plus in 75º heat without the needle moving from the centre point and has done that ever since I've had it. Surprised to realise that's 10 years now.

[Laird Scooby]

Like Derek said, unless it is overheating and the fault is definitely the rad, no sense in replacing it. You'll probably have a completely brass radiator which are almost impossible to get these days, most are a aluminium core with plastic tanks so if yours is all brass, i'd strongly suggest nursing it along for as long as possible and use the time in between to find an "old skool" radiator repair service.

They will desolder the rad, clean the tubes, renew any necessary and re-fin the rad while rebuilding.
Then give it a thorough flush, test and paint before returning to you looking like new as it more or less will be.

The modern equivalents may be more efficient and cheaper but have a limited lifespan, doubtful if they would last 50+ years.

[sleek lemur]

The rad on my 1800E was looking very sad, with many damaged fins. I took is to Sheldrake and Wells in Ipswich, who have a great reputation. I was very pleased with the result. Am sure they can deal with brass.

Have you flushed the engine block? I used white vinegar (£3 a gallon from cash and carry!) And it's amazing the crud it dissolves.

[BLS07]

Cheers Derek UK, Laird Scooby & Sleek Lemur!

Yeah, I want to hang onto to the original if I can / give a birthday freshen up via a refurb would be my preferred choice.

See attached the initial flushing - eventually ran (more or less) clear

Cleaned it back
Painted

Fins a bit wavy here and there, not surprising for its age I guess (right?).

Refurb Co’s recommendations super appreciated.

[BLS07]

Initial flushing, unsurprisingly tanned..
Image won’t attach..

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by BLS07

Cheers Derek UK, Laird Scooby & Sleek Lemur!

Yeah, I want to hang onto to the original if I can / give a birthday freshen up via a refurb would be my preferred choice.

See attached the initial flushing - eventually ran (more or less) clear

Cleaned it back
Painted

Fins a bit wavy here and there, not surprising for its age I guess (right?).

Refurb Co’s recommendations super appreciated.

If you can straighten and regap the fins that would give an improvement in cooling.

Also have you tried reverse flushing? That usually gets rid of a lot of the sediment that normal flushing doesn't, i'd also suggest using a flushing agent.

Before you start the drain, flush etc, ensure the heater is set to the hottest setting, it needs to be there so the matrix gets flushed too.

When you come to do it, invest in something like Comma X-stream Flush for the cooling system and add it as per the directions on it.

If it says run it at a fast idle for 20 minutes, take it for a half hour drive instead.

Once you're home and it has cooled somewhat, remove the 'stat housing and the old 'stat. Refit the housing then remove the top hose from the radiator stub. Use your garden hose in the open end of the top hose, if you have a Hozelock type fitting it should fit snugly inside the top hose.
Turn the water on for the hose and leave it running. This reverse flushes the system with the old stuff exiting via the radiator stub at the top. Usually takes about half hour to get it running clear, once it is running clear leave it 10 minutes or so more to ensure it really is clear.
Turn the hose off and remove it from the top hose. Remove the bottom hose from the bottom of the rad to drain off excess water from the rad and block and then refit - having a new Jublee clip for it is a wise move as they often rust.

Once the bottom hose is secure, add 5L of concentrated Ethylene Glycol antifreeze. The exact figure for 50/50 mix is something like 4.8L, can't recall it exactly and it's as close to 5L as makes very little difference.
Fit the new 'stat, note the seal sits around the edge of the 'stat ont on it or under it - there is a groove inside the seal to let it sit around the 'stat. Ensure the recess in the head and 'stat housing are clean and smooth, use some silicone grease in the groove and smear some on the outer parts of the seal too and fit, ensuring the jiggle valve is at the top if it has one.
Refit the 'stat housing and top hose to the rad.

Top up the expansion tank with fresh water (remember you already have enough antifreeze in so water is fine), refit the cap and squeeze the bottom hose several times to help move the air to the top. If the level drops in the tank, add more water to the "MIN" line and squeeze the bottom hose a few more times. Repeat until squeezing the bottom hose doesn't result in further drop of the level.

Refit the cap and take for a drive, ensuring you get it up to temperature and that the heater works, no leaks etc. Return home and park it facing uphill and leave to cool until the following day then check and top up the level to the "MIN" mark if needed.

I've used this method for decades on a variety of cars and it works.


This is something i typed out for the 7/9xx so the quantities may be different, adjust as necessary for yours. If you haven't recently renewed the 'stat, i'd suggest a new one and renew it every 4 years or every other antifreeze change (EG antifreeze deteriorates after 2 years so should be changed) and do a reverse flush when you change the 'stat. Also you won't have an expansion tank on yours so read "radiator" for topping up etc instead of "expansion tank".

That should give you a few improvements all round.

[BLS07]

Awesome info!
Cheers Dave!!

I flushed the rad every which way, before cleaning up & repainting.
But I definitely need to flush the block / heater matrix too; for sure.

Appreciate the guidance & nudge to flush system yet further.

Bit annoyed with myself for not flushing the block before recent oil & filter change..!

My aim is to prolong the life of the original rad and ensure its warm weather & in-traffic on summery days; ready.


Cheers
B

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by BLS07

Bit annoyed with myself for not flushing the block before recent oil & filter change..!

My aim is to prolong the life of the original rad and ensure its warm weather & in-traffic on summery days; ready.


Cheers
B

Not sure what the difference is about changing the oil/filter? They're two separate systems lubrication and cooling.

Using my method above you'll be able to backflush the whole cooling system, i usually use Comma Xstream Flush for cooling systems but i hear a rumour that's NLA now so any other heavy duty cooling system flush should work.

[BLS07]

Yep, I just meant I could’ve ticked the system flush / refresh off as a whole.

Then again, all the better now anyway having the above advice & methodology; cheers again Dave!

Will look into what’s available & similar to the Comma product you recommended.

Long weekend makes for a good time to get this done, keen!!

Cheers
B