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1800E Voltage Regulator (?)

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Old Mar 31st, 2021, 17:55   #11
sleek lemur
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Thanks again 142. I now have a decent list of tests. Surely I'll find the problem.

(Brookhouse say they've never had an issue with one of their Voltage Regulators.)
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Old Apr 1st, 2021, 12:58   #12
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Some small progress.

I see 12v is exiting the AMP light by the yellow cable. I measured this by separating the multi connector a few inches away from the AMP light. However, only 1.5v is reaching the voltage regulator.

I performed one of Pigeon's tests, by disconnecting the green DF cable from the alternator and very briefly directly connecting 12v from the battery, but forgot to put indicator bulb in line &#129402 The voltage reading at the battery immediately went up from 12.5 to 14.7. Does this definitely show that the voltage regulator is not working?

HOWEVER, I now have no AMP light. The bulb is fine and I still get 12v exiting the light connector on the yellow cable when measured at the multi connector. HOWEVER, now I get a full 12v where the yellow cable joins the voltage regulator. so..

Battery still not charging
No AMP light, but bulb ok.
12v measured where yellow cable meets voltage regulator.
Still no reading from output green cable from voltage regulator.

Now what?!
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Old Apr 1st, 2021, 14:36   #13
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"I see 12v is exiting the AMP light by the yellow cable. I measured this by separating the multi connector a few inches away from the AMP light. However, only 1.5v is reaching the voltage regulator."

I can be of no additional help, but on that wiring diagram I think I see a resistor on the wire between the amp light and the voltage regulator.
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Old Apr 1st, 2021, 15:20   #14
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I think that resistor is the multi connector.....
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Old Apr 1st, 2021, 16:53   #15
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I see 12v is exiting the AMP light by the yellow cable. I measured this by separating the multi connector a few inches away from the AMP light. However, only 1.5v is reaching the voltage regulator. - Are you doing this test with the ignition switch in the run position? If you are measuring 12v on the regulator end of the yellow wire with the yellow wire disconnected from both the alternator and regulator, this would be normal. If you are measuring 1.5v on the regulator end of the yellow wire with the yellow wire disconnected from both the alternator and regulator, this would be a sign of a problem with the yellow wire - likely a short to ground.


I performed one of Pigeon's tests, by disconnecting the green DF cable from the alternator and very briefly directly connecting 12v from the battery, but forgot to put indicator bulb in line &#129402 The voltage reading at the battery immediately went up from 12.5 to 14.7. Does this definitely show that the voltage regulator is not working? - It 'definitively' shows that the alternator appears to be working. By the process of elimination that leaves you with a defective voltage regulator or a problem with the wiring attached to the voltage regulator

HOWEVER, I now have no AMP light. The bulb is fine and I still get 12v exiting the light connector on the yellow cable when measured at the multi connector. HOWEVER, now I get a full 12v where the yellow cable joins the voltage regulator. so.. - If the yellow wire is still connected to the voltage regulator and the alternator, that is a problem. Check that you don't have a bad connection at the voltage regulator, particularly that failed earth connection you found. If all the electrical connections are fine then the voltage regulator is most likely dead.
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Old Apr 1st, 2021, 17:02   #16
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Thanks as always 142.

I think I've gone as far as I can with the testing now. What I don't understand is what on earth I did when I connected the battery+ to the DF terminal (for maybe a second). After that, the reading at yellow on the voltage regulator changed from its previous 1.5v to 12.5v. That caused the AMP light to go out as there is e longer any voltage drop.

Anyway, I am sure my connections are sound and therefore have gone ahead and ordered a new VR.

Also am concerned about getting barred from the forum!
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Old Apr 2nd, 2021, 00:13   #17
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When you did the battery + to the Df terminal on the alternator, did you have the wire from the alternator Df terminal to the regulator disconnected? If not, that applied 12v to the output of the voltage regulator. Depending on what was wrong with the voltage regulator, that +12v may just have completed the transition of the internals from burnt toast to elemental carbon.

Based upon what you reported, I expect that your regulator was previously dead. Now, like the skunk that was hit by a car and subsequently driven over and flattened by a lorry, it is doubly dead!
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Old Apr 2nd, 2021, 00:20   #18
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Green wire to DF was disconnected before I connected the DF terminal to the +ve battery.

I had had a peek inside the VR previously and it didn't look cooked at all. Anyway, new VR on its way...

In GB, rather than skunks, we refer to dead parrots!
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Old Apr 2nd, 2021, 18:22   #19
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Norwegian Blues? We don't have any of those in Canada. I was more into channeling Loudon Wainwright III

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wt-o2xlffWo

Hope the new regulator fixes the problem. Was the old one electro - mechanical or all electronic?
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Old Apr 2nd, 2021, 19:14   #20
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LRIII son is a bit of a superstar over here.

As for my Charge Regulator...

https://www.classicvolvoparts.co.uk/...e=C_Alternator

HE'S NOT DEAD, HE'S RESTING !!!!!
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