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2011 V50 R-Design D4

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Old Mar 29th, 2021, 13:31   #11
Japster
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Pics of Front Brake Calipers and discs
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File Type: jpg IMG_1386.jpg (136.2 KB, 16 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_1387.jpg (161.2 KB, 18 views)
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Old Mar 29th, 2021, 14:06   #12
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They look substantial...

Have you measured them?
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Old Mar 29th, 2021, 14:09   #13
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Pretty confident they are 320mm.

That caliper is for the big discs.

The smaller disc size comes with a different style caliper.
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Old Mar 29th, 2021, 15:14   #14
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+1 to above, that square notch is on 320mm calipers, 302mm ones had the semi-arched notch.
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Old Mar 29th, 2021, 16:14   #15
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If changing these pads on the 320mm discs, do be careful when removing the caliper retaining clip as it can ping out and crack you in the face if you aren't paying attention. It's not like the normal rattle spring that the 300mm calipers have.

At 0:09 in this video shows removal of the retaining clip.

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.
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Old Apr 5th, 2021, 23:48   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wgl2020 View Post
Twanging can also be a seized top mount on the strut..... this should turn smoothly when steering but if seized will go in a series of notches accompanied with said twang!

Can be checked if you jack the front up and try turning the wheel.
Jacked it up today and took the wheels off, I have two busted front springs, right at the bottom on both sides. Damn

Also nearside shock looks like it’s starting to leak.
Might be cheaper for me to replace both struts. Any suggestions?
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Old Apr 6th, 2021, 15:50   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Japster View Post
Jacked it up today and took the wheels off, I have two busted front springs, right at the bottom on both sides. Damn

Also nearside shock looks like it’s starting to leak.
Might be cheaper for me to replace both struts. Any suggestions?
You should replace struts in pairs anyway, otherwise you'll end up with a lob sided car! If one side is leaking, chances are the other one is probably worn too.

So your best bet is replace both struts (one is leaking anyway) & replace both the springs because they're knackered. Also, if going to all the trouble of replacing the shocks & springs, you might as well replace the upper bearings & spring seats. There's no point putting worn ones back onto a new shock/spring assembly.

As for shock absorber brands, Bilstein are decent if you want aftermarket. Volvo originals are pricey (I think the brand is Sachs with a Volvo badge), but they'll offer a comfier ride than the Bilstein... Not that Bilstein are uncomfortable, but they're firmer than originals fitted to Volvo.

With regards to spring seats & bearings, Corteco & Febi are good options.
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Old Apr 6th, 2021, 19:29   #18
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Originally Posted by Kev0607 View Post
You should replace struts in pairs anyway, otherwise you'll end up with a lob sided car! If one side is leaking, chances are the other one is probably worn too.

So your best bet is replace both struts (one is leaking anyway) & replace both the springs because they're knackered. Also, if going to all the trouble of replacing the shocks & springs, you might as well replace the upper bearings & spring seats. There's no point putting worn ones back onto a new shock/spring assembly.

As for shock absorber brands, Bilstein are decent if you want aftermarket. Volvo originals are pricey (I think the brand is Sachs with a Volvo badge), but they'll offer a comfier ride than the Bilstein... Not that Bilstein are uncomfortable, but they're firmer than originals fitted to Volvo.

With regards to spring seats & bearings, Corteco & Febi are good options.
Thanks for the advice on the springs/shocks, I suspected the top mount bearings anyway so would be looking to replace the whole units.

If I were to get a lowering set say -25mm would I need to change anything else other than the struts and rear spring/shocks?

Cheers
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Old Apr 6th, 2021, 20:44   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Japster View Post
Thanks for the advice on the springs/shocks, I suspected the top mount bearings anyway so would be looking to replace the whole units.

If I were to get a lowering set say -25mm would I need to change anything else other than the struts and rear spring/shocks?

Cheers
yeps invest in tin plate jeans,, given the shocking state of the tarmac between the potholes and the "speed humps" that will take out the undercarriage of the car :P
Also check that your Jack will still Fit under the car with it a inch lower,, or factor in the £ of buying a brand new low profile jack
(go on ask me how i know that one,,,)


you'd be advised to go and get a Full 4wheel alignment done properly on something like (or very similar to) a "hunter 4wheel alignment" system With an operator who knows his a** from his elbow,, (do not trust Kwickbuggeritup/halfrauds as there reps speak for them) once you have replaced whatever it is your replacing
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Old Apr 6th, 2021, 20:57   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Japster View Post
Thanks for the advice on the springs/shocks, I suspected the top mount bearings anyway so would be looking to replace the whole units.

If I were to get a lowering set say -25mm would I need to change anything else other than the struts and rear spring/shocks?

Cheers
I don't know about whether there's anything else you'd need. I'm not a fan of lowering cars... not my cup of tea. No offence to those that have though!

As mentioned above by andy, you should get the car aligned after fitting shocks & springs though (four wheel alignment).
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