Engine: 164 2978cc: Torque Settings

[TonyCy]

Good day all,

I’m new on here but looking forward to share experiences of the 4 (yes 4) 164 that I have acquired last month in a job lot. Daft? Probably....

Stripping down the mechanicals at the moment on my 1973. Official workshop manual to hand but even that is light on torque settings for anything other than major components such as shell bearings and head bolts.

Does anyone have a nice definitive list of torque tightening values for ancillary items such as, in my current case, the four oil pump assembly bolts and the two pump mounting bolts to engine? I’ve had a good search and found nil, will resort to generic values for bolt size if necessary but would prefer some actuals?

Thoughts?

[Derek UK]

Probably the same as those for the B20 as the B30 is just a B20 + 2 pots.
That may not help if they don't show up for the B20 either. 😎

[TonyCy]

Yes, I need to dig around B20’s too - as you say, a lot of commonality. I’ve recently swapped out one cam rocker from a B20 for one of mine where the hardened face was worn through. Straight swap.

[TonyCy]

https://youtu.be/hHETh8xSO7E

Not sure if this link will work on here but this is what I found on my newly acquired 164. I opened the sump as top end noted dry and assumed oilways blocked. Was proven to be right thing to do!

[TonyCy]

Hi again, may have an answer found somewhere else for the B20 as suggested. I’m not vouching for these numbers and haven’t cross-checked against the green book where applicable but apparently comes from a workshop that rebuilds B20’s. I think the term is “use at own risk”!
One case in point - head bolts are multi-stage tightening items but below no mention of.

All measurements are in ft/lbs.

Head bolts/stud nuts: 70-75, lightly oiled
Main cap bolt/nuts: 90, lightly oiled
Rod nuts(stock): 45, lightly oiled, stake each nut in 2 places
Cam thrust plate: 10, use Loctite
Cam nut: 75, use Loctite & stake nut in 2-3 places
Flywheel bolts: 45, use Loctite
Clutch bolts: 25, Grade 8 w/Grade 8 split lock washers
Rocker shaft bolt: 25
Crankshaft bolt: 60, use Loctite
Water pump bolts: 20-25 w/wave washers
Water pump pulley/fan bolts: 20-25 w/split lock washers
Front crankshaft seal housing bolts: 8-10 w/wave washers
Rear crankshaft seal housing bolts: 8-10, w/wave washers, use Loctite
Oil pan: 20-25
Oil pump: 20-25, use Loctite w/wave or lock washers
Breather box: 8-10 w/wave washer
Distributor base, fuel pump/block off plate: 20-25, w/wave washers, use Loctite
Motor mount bolts: 20-25 w/split lock washers
Valve cover: 8-10 w/wave washers
Intake/exhaust manifold nuts/bolts to head: 20-25 w/Belleville or wave washers

Aside from above apparently Volvo stated to torque to accepted standard settings based upon bolt size - or so I have understood.

Any other info welcome.

[AndrewBrown]

Originally Posted by TonyCy

Good day all,

I’m new on here but looking forward to share experiences of the 4 (yes 4) 164 that I have acquired last month in a job lot. Daft? Probably....

Thoughts?

4 in a job lot!!! now that's just showing off, if only things like that would happen to me.

Still being in Limassol at least you have lovely Cyprus weather so they wont be all rusty like the ones here usually are

I can feel the envy coming over me

Good luck with them Tony

[TonyCy]

Thanks Andrew,

As usual in any resto - one step forward and 3/4 back. Opened the timing cover with a view to renewing front crank seal and found timing out by one tooth - it’s simple enough to line up correctly when fitting the cam drive gear so no idea why whoever did it couldn’t line the damned marks up correctly back then! A hidden benefit to this snafu - when I pulled the cam gear to move it round by one, I found that the cam thrust/holding plate behind had sheared entirely across the bolt holes which explained the excessive end float. Would not have seen if someone had not initially messed the valve timing up by one tooth.......

A question, if anyone can help? I’m looking for a windscreen scuttle panel or even part panel. These are NLA from the usual suppliers. Ideas? Anybody out there breaking a 164? Not sure if a 140/240 panel is same?

[Burdekin]

Originally Posted by TonyCy

Thanks Andrew,

As usual in any resto - one step forward and 3/4 back. Opened the timing cover with a view to renewing front crank seal and found timing out by one tooth - it’s simple enough to line up correctly when fitting the cam drive gear so no idea why whoever did it couldn’t line the damned marks up correctly back then! A hidden benefit to this snafu - when I pulled the cam gear to move it round by one, I found that the cam thrust/holding plate behind had sheared entirely across the bolt holes which explained the excessive end float. Would not have seen if someone had not initially messed the valve timing up by one tooth.......

A question, if anyone can help? I’m looking for a windscreen scuttle panel or even part panel. These are NLA from the usual suppliers. Ideas? Anybody out there breaking a 164? Not sure if a 140/240 panel is same?

Simon did have one I think, worth messaging him and asking: https://www.ebay.co.uk/usr/kommensiecake

[classicswede]

The panel is the same as 140's and 240's upto about 1980

[Triple-S]

Yes - someone on here grafted a 240 screen surround panel onto his 164 a few years back. Obviously a big job needing good welding skills. Possibly check age of 240 as I believe they changed when they finally realised metal screen-fitting clips induced rust, so went bonded-in.
They say patch-repairing is the only option but can't comment.

P