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PV, 120 (Amazon), 1800 General Forum for the Volvo PV, 120 and 1800 cars |
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1800E on carbs won't start!Views : 1728 Replies : 22Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Mar 21st, 2021, 20:21 | #21 |
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Location: Saskatchewan, Canada
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There is a relatively simple test called a full field test that you can do which will determine whether the problem is within the alternator or somewhere 'outside' of the alternator which would include the regulator.
1) with the engine not running, confirm that you have +12 volts on the B+ terminal on the alternator (B+ will be the big stud with the connection to the battery). If you don't have 12 v on B+ then you have a problem with the connection to the battery. 2) get an insulated jumper about 12 " long. One with alligator clips makes life easier; but, a piece of wire with 1/2" of insulation stripped from each end will do the trick. 3) set up your voltmeter to read the voltage at the batterry. 4) unplug the voltage regulator 5) Turn electrical stuff in the car off. If you have any transistor based electronics in the car (radio...) isolate the electronics using its supply fuse. The test that you are going to do should not present a problem; but, if your radio is old it make not like the little jolt that we are going to provide. 5) start the engine 6) with your jumper, briefly make an electrical connection from the alternator's B+ terminal to the Df (field winding terminal) on the alternator. This applies full battery voltage to the field winding and you should see the voltage at the battery jump above 15 volts. Keep this brief. It helps to have two people to do the test. Someone to observe the voltmeter while you jumper from B+ to Df at the alternator. 7) if the voltage does not change when you do this full field test, then you have a problem inside the alternator. If the voltage jumps during the test, then the problem is outside the alternator. You can do a Google search using the term 'alternator full field test' if you want a more detailed explanation. Since you replaced the voltage regulator, did you replace it with a solid state regulator - perhaps one with the little voltage adjustment screw on the bottom? If so, first off make sure that the case of the regulator is well grounded to the body. Having done that, with everything reconnected, if it has one, give the little adjustment screw a tweak while watching the battery voltage. Sometimes the potentiometer (adjustment screw) can develop a bad spot and moving the adjustment may re establish contact. Last edited by 142 Guy; Mar 21st, 2021 at 20:23. |
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Mar 21st, 2021, 21:40 | #22 |
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Last Online: Dec 29th, 2022 11:47
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Thanks 142. Really useful. Will try this in the morning.
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Apr 4th, 2021, 23:40 | #23 |
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Last Online: Mar 23rd, 2024 19:59
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Location: heptonstall
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. . . an i thought we had these old cars partly to avoid all these electrical an computer problems. . . !
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