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How hot does your 240 run

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Old Apr 23rd, 2013, 20:12   #1
MonkeyMatt
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Default How hot does your 240 run

1989 2.3 manual.

On a long run at 75-80mph the water temp gauge rises to a good 3/4, uncomfortably close to the red for me. Is this normal? Are the sender units prone to failing and sending erroneous reading or should I look more towards mechanical issues (I expect the latter).

There are no signs of hg failure, although I will check again after today's drive and the temp drops with the slightest bit of heater, so I'm thinking a flush of the cooling system is the 1 st thing to do.

Any thoughts / recommendations?
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Old Apr 23rd, 2013, 21:34   #2
Volvorama
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Default Hmm

I think it's rare for a 240 to run hot. My GLT estate has most of its radiator fins missing and it still works fine, just a slight rise on the gauge in traffic jams in summer. When it's moving temp stays in the centre of the gauge unless I really hammer it and even then it only rises to 3/4.
Could be your radiator is a is bit below par. One from a 940 in a breakers or ebay should go straight in and you can use an auto rad in a manual.
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Old Apr 23rd, 2013, 21:42   #3
Antz
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240's should run bang in the middle of the gauge all the time. Thats where all Volvos run actually.

Somethings a bit odd. Could be a sticky thermostat or worn out radiator.
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Old Apr 24th, 2013, 00:12   #4
wooble
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Sounds like a duff thermostat to me. All the 240s bar my current one have one at bang on 9 o'clock on the gauge.

Having side that, mine runs at 10 o'clock on the gauge. Since owning it, I've replaced the thermostat twice, replaced the gauge with a known good one, replaced the sender, the water pump, flushed the coolant thrice, fitted an upgraded radiator, fitted an electric cooling fan, and replaced all the hoses. The reading on the gauge hasn't changed a jot, but it is dead steady. It reaches operating temp at 10 o'clock promptly, and stays there regardless of speed or load. I've come to regard it as the new normal reading.

Last edited by wooble; Apr 24th, 2013 at 00:15.
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Old Apr 24th, 2013, 02:34   #5
Lgbpop
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If the temperature reading drops when the heater's engaged, you have coolant flow, which pretty much rules out eroded cooling pump vanes. What I'd be checking is the coolant flow through the radiator. (Poor coolant flow through the engine block would make your engine run warm/hot whether or not the heater - nothing more than a secondary radiator, when one thinks about it - was engaged.)

What's the condition of your coolant? - bright in color, or getting rather faded and/or getting brownish? Any schmutz on the inside of your radiator cap?
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Old Apr 24th, 2013, 08:13   #6
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I've had this on a few occasions over the years. In each case it has been the radiator getting furred up with corrosion. I've never found trying to flush it made much difference, apart from starting leaks. With a new radiator it runs bang in the middle of the temperature gauge.
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Old Apr 24th, 2013, 09:12   #7
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Mines sort of between 8 & 9 O'clock, probs nearer 8 tbh. Always has been since replacing the rad & thermostat in 06/07. (B200E)

My old Tors (B200F) used to sit level at 9 O'clock except on our yearly run from in family Derby to family in Salford. Used to go Ashbourne/Leek/Stafford if I recall. This scenic route has many steep winding climbs & the guage used to rise to 10 O'clock + . Had me worried the 1st time but as the roads levelled out it returned to 'normal'...
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Old Apr 24th, 2013, 17:44   #8
BrianH
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Monkeymatt, does your 2316cc engine have a thermofan with the round spring on the front?

If so check that the centre pin its connected to, rotates. The flat of a medium srewdriver will help to encourage rotation.

This spindle corrodes easily and jams as it is very exposed.

It can be persuaded to move but with release you may have to boil it.

Running on LPG and towing the needle position remains at just above 9 o'clock

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Old Apr 25th, 2013, 22:05   #9
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My needle always sat at about 7 oclock or to be honest not much above nothing, till i fitted an electric fan etc, now after about half an hour of start stop traffic lights etc it will hit 9 oclock for a while then my fan will click in.

I have not replaced my stat in the 4 years of ownership.

You could have a gunged up temp sender, after a while the silt stuck to it heats up and gives you too high a reading, as you suggest a flush would be the easiest and cheapest first port of call.

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Old Apr 26th, 2013, 07:18   #10
heckflosse
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MonkeyMatt View Post
1989 2.3 manual.

On a long run at 75-80mph the water temp gauge rises to a good 3/4, uncomfortably close to the red for me. Is this normal? Are the sender units prone to failing and sending erroneous reading or should I look more towards mechanical issues (I expect the latter).

There are no signs of hg failure, although I will check again after today's drive and the temp drops with the slightest bit of heater, so I'm thinking a flush of the cooling system is the 1 st thing to do.

Any thoughts / recommendations?
First thought is radiator,I have owned 240s that seem to sit at 3/4 hot,due to silting up.
A Thermostat is the cheapest thing to change first, but feel the core of the rad for cold spots after a run.
Regards,
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