|
200 Series General Forum for the Volvo 240 and 260 cars |
Information |
|
How hot does your 240 runViews : 2232 Replies : 12Users Viewing This Thread : |
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
Apr 23rd, 2013, 20:12 | #1 |
Member
Last Online: Dec 2nd, 2021 00:16
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Shropshire
|
How hot does your 240 run
1989 2.3 manual.
On a long run at 75-80mph the water temp gauge rises to a good 3/4, uncomfortably close to the red for me. Is this normal? Are the sender units prone to failing and sending erroneous reading or should I look more towards mechanical issues (I expect the latter). There are no signs of hg failure, although I will check again after today's drive and the temp drops with the slightest bit of heater, so I'm thinking a flush of the cooling system is the 1 st thing to do. Any thoughts / recommendations? |
Apr 23rd, 2013, 21:34 | #2 |
Too many cats
Last Online: Aug 24th, 2023 09:02
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Birmingham
|
Hmm
I think it's rare for a 240 to run hot. My GLT estate has most of its radiator fins missing and it still works fine, just a slight rise on the gauge in traffic jams in summer. When it's moving temp stays in the centre of the gauge unless I really hammer it and even then it only rises to 3/4.
Could be your radiator is a is bit below par. One from a 940 in a breakers or ebay should go straight in and you can use an auto rad in a manual.
__________________
Mark |
Apr 23rd, 2013, 21:42 | #3 |
No I'm not the redhead
Last Online: Nov 25th, 2022 09:49
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: North Yorkshire Coast
|
240's should run bang in the middle of the gauge all the time. Thats where all Volvos run actually.
Somethings a bit odd. Could be a sticky thermostat or worn out radiator. |
Apr 24th, 2013, 00:12 | #4 |
Stay gold baby!
Last Online: Jul 24th, 2022 16:15
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Bristol
|
Sounds like a duff thermostat to me. All the 240s bar my current one have one at bang on 9 o'clock on the gauge.
Having side that, mine runs at 10 o'clock on the gauge. Since owning it, I've replaced the thermostat twice, replaced the gauge with a known good one, replaced the sender, the water pump, flushed the coolant thrice, fitted an upgraded radiator, fitted an electric cooling fan, and replaced all the hoses. The reading on the gauge hasn't changed a jot, but it is dead steady. It reaches operating temp at 10 o'clock promptly, and stays there regardless of speed or load. I've come to regard it as the new normal reading.
__________________
Click to see 240 parts I want to give you money for! Last edited by wooble; Apr 24th, 2013 at 00:15. |
Apr 24th, 2013, 02:34 | #5 |
Junior Member
Last Online: Mar 30th, 2014 14:33
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Fort Myers, Fla.
|
If the temperature reading drops when the heater's engaged, you have coolant flow, which pretty much rules out eroded cooling pump vanes. What I'd be checking is the coolant flow through the radiator. (Poor coolant flow through the engine block would make your engine run warm/hot whether or not the heater - nothing more than a secondary radiator, when one thinks about it - was engaged.)
What's the condition of your coolant? - bright in color, or getting rather faded and/or getting brownish? Any schmutz on the inside of your radiator cap? |
Apr 24th, 2013, 08:13 | #6 |
Not an expert but ...
Last Online: Today 17:48
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Boncath
|
I've had this on a few occasions over the years. In each case it has been the radiator getting furred up with corrosion. I've never found trying to flush it made much difference, apart from starting leaks. With a new radiator it runs bang in the middle of the temperature gauge.
|
Apr 24th, 2013, 09:12 | #7 |
Ovlovnut
|
Mines sort of between 8 & 9 O'clock, probs nearer 8 tbh. Always has been since replacing the rad & thermostat in 06/07. (B200E)
My old Tors (B200F) used to sit level at 9 O'clock except on our yearly run from in family Derby to family in Salford. Used to go Ashbourne/Leek/Stafford if I recall. This scenic route has many steep winding climbs & the guage used to rise to 10 O'clock + . Had me worried the 1st time but as the roads levelled out it returned to 'normal'...
__________________
2004 V70 2.4SE Auto 'The Welshmobile’ 2002 Laika Ecovip 400i ( Motorhome on an Iveco 2.8TD) http://www.gitessouthbrittany.com/ http://moncopainmonchien.jimdo.com/ |
Apr 24th, 2013, 17:44 | #8 |
VOC Member
Last Online: May 3rd, 2024 12:56
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Bournemouth
|
Monkeymatt, does your 2316cc engine have a thermofan with the round spring on the front?
If so check that the centre pin its connected to, rotates. The flat of a medium srewdriver will help to encourage rotation. This spindle corrodes easily and jams as it is very exposed. It can be persuaded to move but with release you may have to boil it. Running on LPG and towing the needle position remains at just above 9 o'clock BrianH 517k |
Apr 25th, 2013, 22:05 | #9 |
Master Member
Last Online: Nov 24th, 2023 01:11
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Glasgow
|
My needle always sat at about 7 oclock or to be honest not much above nothing, till i fitted an electric fan etc, now after about half an hour of start stop traffic lights etc it will hit 9 oclock for a while then my fan will click in.
I have not replaced my stat in the 4 years of ownership. You could have a gunged up temp sender, after a while the silt stuck to it heats up and gives you too high a reading, as you suggest a flush would be the easiest and cheapest first port of call. Rusty |
Apr 26th, 2013, 07:18 | #10 | |
Premier Member
Last Online: Oct 28th, 2023 12:30
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: dereham
|
Quote:
A Thermostat is the cheapest thing to change first, but feel the core of the rad for cold spots after a run. Regards, James. |
|
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests) | |
|
|