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200 Series General Forum for the Volvo 240 and 260 cars |
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Any Advice, Part 2!Views : 46709 Replies : 671Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Aug 26th, 2020, 20:01 | #61 | |
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That was a long winded way of saying it won’t make and difference if the motor is at TDC or not. Alan |
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Aug 26th, 2020, 20:05 | #62 | |
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It is probably worth Chris doing it as it will only cost a couple of quid, but it sounds like something else is probably wrong on one side only. Alan Last edited by Othen; Aug 26th, 2020 at 20:10. |
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Aug 26th, 2020, 20:14 | #63 | |
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:-) Alan Last edited by Othen; Aug 26th, 2020 at 20:30. |
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Aug 26th, 2020, 21:28 | #64 | |
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We'll be looking into that ball joint tomorrow. No idea what it is even at the moment, but sounds like a real possibility... |
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Aug 27th, 2020, 07:18 | #65 |
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Is this the part that we're looking to check?
Eta - If so, I've just had a look at them, the one that the Mot called attention to is the one with the more collapsed rubber. If I get the front of the car on stands and try to turn the wheels left and right without the engine running, might that tell me anything helpful about the effort needed to turn right? That said, if the offside joint is indeed causing resistance when turning right, wouldn't it do the same when turning left - which isn't happening? UPDATE! Just took it for a quick drive around and about, doing 3-point turns wherever I could and it definitely feels better - not immediately (on our driveway) but once I'd gone 400 yards I did some turns and it was definitely lighter turning right. Maybe it's the universal joints as you suggested, Bugjam. I'll keep giving it a spray a day, maybe it'll loosen still more. Last edited by Chris152; Aug 27th, 2020 at 09:36. |
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Aug 27th, 2020, 10:06 | #66 | ||
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Thanks Bugjam. My grasp is it is fundamentally key to do it at about 600 miles. And periodically is not a bad idea init. I did not imagine the recent discussion but I cannot find it by searching. So far as I recall it was of the esoteric or pedantic nature (did I say that) exemplified by The Royal Czar's comments above but with the opposite conclusion. On this occasion, I agree with Othen. (washing my mouth out ... ) Cheers Bugjam. Comrade Stephen Edwin . |
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Aug 27th, 2020, 15:17 | #67 | |
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loki_the_glt - Skipper of the Exxon Valdez, driver of Sweden's finest sporting saloon - and pining for another Slant-4. |
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Aug 27th, 2020, 15:33 | #68 | |
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Roadside emergency techniques if I remember correctly. . |
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Aug 27th, 2020, 15:44 | #69 |
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Aha yes.
17.41 Cam belt fails > 18.20 continue journey https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showt...hlight=cambelt and I guess that included time to cook and serve a full Anglesey tea ... . Last edited by Stephen Edwin; Aug 27th, 2020 at 15:46. |
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Aug 28th, 2020, 07:30 | #70 |
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Reading around the site, I found this by honestjoe who had replaced the steering rack on his 240:
'I think its just air in the system, it improves over time..turning left is good turning right hard..' here: https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showt...ng+rack&page=2 Sounds the same as ours, but unfortunately the thread doesn't go so far as to say if replacing/ bleeding the power steering fluid sorted that problem. Reading elsewhere on the net, the steering rack (non-functioning valves?) seems to get identified often as the source of heavy steering in one direction only. So maybe that's where we'll end up. In the meantime, the last MoT identified the suspension component ball joint dust cover O/S which I photographed above as needing sorting asap; and in need of monitoring were steering rack inner joints (some play); and track rod end ball joint O/S, slight play. We'll do all these, starting with the suspension component ball joint. We'll also try the turkey baster method of refreshing power steering fluid, just in case. Two questions: 1. Can we use any brand of power steering fluid? Are they all the same/ mix ok? 2. If it comes to the worst case and it's the steering rack, do we need to replace the whole thing or just the 'steering gear'? Thanks for any advice. |
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