Any Advice, Part 2!

[Chris152]

Originally Posted by Othen

Satisfying - isn't it?
Well done you two.
Alan

Hugely satisfying, Alan - especially as a dad taking/ working with his boy through his first steps to learning about this stuff. And much easier with two, I'd think. I was aware that our attitude to the process - steady steps, double checking and all - were as important as the outcome, and in the end it all worked fine. He wanted to start it up to test it was good but I said I would in case anything went horribly wrong - at least it'd be my fault, not his. All was good and we went for a celebratory drive. It has to be the coolest car anywhere, I was as proud as him! Happy fellas.

Loki - the steering's the same I'm afraid - I gave the u-joints another spray today in case, we'll see. It's fine on the road, but when moving slowly it's quite an effort. I couldn't find a fault-finding page for this in Haynes - what else could it be? And btw, having the crank lock was brilliant - it'd be another level of struggle without! Thank you.

[Bugjam1999]

Nice one- sounds like a fun day.

A reminder- the cambelt tensioner on these engines is not self-adjusting, it only takes up slack in the belt when the nut holding the cambelt tensioner pulley is slackened off.

With a new belt fitted that nut needs to be slacked off (just until it’s loose) and tightened up again periodically to take up slack as the new belt stretches slightly. There is a rubber bung in the front of the cambelt cover for this- take the bung out, slacken the nut off with a socket, re-tighten and replace the bung. For the avoidance of doubt the engine should not be running at the time.

I don’t know the intervals, but I think volvo stated after 500 or perhaps 1000 miles. I deliberately do this procedure more often as it literally takes two minutes- after the first drive, again after a week, again after a month etc.

The pas belt should be slightly longer but I’ve found lots of places just stock/list the slightly shorter ones for the crank/waterpump/alternator- since those can be forced into the pas pump no-one ever got round to updating the fitting database. Brookhouse has the correct sized belts- hence why your new belt fitted properly.

Cheers

[Othen]

Originally Posted by Bugjam1999

Nice one- sounds like a fun day.

A reminder- the cambelt tensioner on these engines is not self-adjusting, it only takes up slack in the belt when the nut holding the cambelt tensioner pulley is slackened off.

With a new belt fitted that nut needs to be slacked off (just until it’s loose) and tightened up again periodically to take up slack as the new belt stretches slightly. There is a rubber bung in the front of the cambelt cover for this- take the bung out, slacken the nut off with a socket, re-tighten and replace the bung. For the avoidance of doubt the engine should not be running at the time.

I don’t know the intervals, but I think volvo stated after 500 or perhaps 1000 miles. I deliberately do this procedure more often as it literally takes two minutes- after the first drive, again after a week, again after a month etc.

The pas belt should be slightly longer but I’ve found lots of places just stock/list the slightly shorter ones for the crank/waterpump/alternator- since those can be forced into the pas pump no-one ever got round to updating the fitting database. Brookhouse has the correct sized belts- hence why your new belt fitted properly.

Cheers

The BofH says to re-tension the belt 600 miles after a change - which is pretty sensible to make sure everything has bedded in. After that there isn't a prescribed interval, but it is such a simple job that one might do it from time to time - perhaps annually with the service?

Good theory about the PAS belt - I had not heard that previously but it does sound plausible.

Alan

[Stephen Edwin]

Originally Posted by Bugjam1999

Nice one- sounds like a fun day.

A reminder- the cambelt tensioner on these engines is not self-adjusting, it only takes up slack in the belt when the nut holding the cambelt tensioner pulley is slackened off.

With a new belt fitted that nut needs to be slacked off (just until it’s loose) and tightened up again periodically to take up slack as the new belt stretches slightly. There is a rubber bung in the front of the cambelt cover for this- take the bung out, slacken the nut off with a socket, re-tighten and replace the bung. For the avoidance of doubt the engine should not be running at the time.

I don’t know the intervals, but I think volvo stated after 500 or perhaps 1000 miles. I deliberately do this procedure more often as it literally takes two minutes- after the first drive, again after a week, again after a month etc.

The pas belt should be slightly longer but I’ve found lots of places just stock/list the slightly shorter ones for the crank/waterpump/alternator- since those can be forced into the pas pump no-one ever got round to updating the fitting database. Brookhouse has the correct sized belts- hence why your new belt fitted properly.

Cheers

Is my memory right Bugjam. Has it been said recently and if so it sounds likely to be right, that the re-tensioning should be done with the engine at TDC, probably number one at TDC? That is the engine position for fitting and tensioning the belt so it makes a tad of sense for re-tensioning.


.

[Othen]

Originally Posted by Chris152

Hugely satisfying, Alan - especially as a dad taking/ working with his boy through his first steps to learning about this stuff. And much easier with two, I'd think. I was aware that our attitude to the process - steady steps, double checking and all - were as important as the outcome, and in the end it all worked fine. He wanted to start it up to test it was good but I said I would in case anything went horribly wrong - at least it'd be my fault, not his. All was good and we went for a celebratory drive. It has to be the coolest car anywhere, I was as proud as him! Happy fellas.

Loki - the steering's the same I'm afraid - I gave the u-joints another spray today in case, we'll see. It's fine on the road, but when moving slowly it's quite an effort. I couldn't find a fault-finding page for this in Haynes - what else could it be? And btw, having the crank lock was brilliant - it'd be another level of struggle without! Thank you.

Excellent Chris: working with your boy and learning stuff together is probably more valuable in your project than the motor car itself. I can just imagine you two driving around - as proud as can be with your newly fixed Volvo.

You might try a partial change of the ATF in the steering pump - somethimes that helps.

Alan

[Bugjam1999]

Originally Posted by Stephen Edwin

Is my memory right Bugjam. Has it been said recently and if so it sounds likely to be right, that the re-tensioning should be done with the engine at TDC, probably number one at TDC? That is the engine position for fitting and tensioning the belt so it makes a tad of sense for re-tensioning.


.

Hmmm, I don’t think it’d make any difference- it’s just key to make sure it’s done periodically.

Cheers

[Chris152]

Thanks Bugjam, I had no idea so we'll be doing that.

Today I had the timing belt done on my VW at the independent Volvo garage I've used the last 14 years - worked out rather more expensive than the one we did yesterday. I proudly told the owner how we'd managed the task in under 4 hours, and he smiled. He's a quiet, modest man, which made his response all the more shocking to me - apparently, he used to be able to do them on a 240 in about 10 minutes, assuming all the tools were laid out ready at the start. He even listed off the top of the head all the socket sizes needed for each part. From many I'd think it just bravado, but I believe him - he started working when 240s were common in their workshop, and reckoned he'd done several hundred over the years. 10 minutes/ 4 hours!

Something I noticed about the power steering - it works nice and light to the left even when hardly moving, but turning right is when it's heavy - any ideas what might cause that?

[Bob Meadows]

Are the steering ball joints free & associated parts?

I have done a power steering fluid change some time back on a 240 (brief details already submitted) Turkey baster rather than trying to drain- I had been very surprised at the difference it made after replacing tied fluid etc.
It was never really bad but the change improved it further.
Hope it helps.
Bob.

[Chris152]

Originally Posted by Bob Meadows

Are the steering ball joints free & associated parts?

I have done a power steering fluid change some time back on a 240 (brief details already submitted) Turkey baster rather than trying to drain- I had been very surprised at the difference it made after replacing tied fluid etc.
It was never really bad but the change improved it further.
Hope it helps.
Bob.

I'll take a look at the manual and see how to check ball joints etc - I did wonder if the problem was near the wheel on the right rather than being an overall problem with the steering. And I'll have a look for your fluid change on here - tho I guess if it's happening only when turning right, it's a more local problem?
Thanks Bob.

ps 'Track rod ball joint has slight play Offside' appears on the last MoT - could that be the issue? I have the feeling the last MoT followed some 'old-fashioned' methods.

[Bob Meadows]

If the ball joints have failing rubber dust boots then dirt/water can spoil the lubrication leading to excessive wear or stiffness within the joints- well worth checking as your problem is being narrowed down to the offside:~

You could release the same and check for any improvements- not expensive items so probably better to replace both sides-same for the fluid change ie quite easy and no great cost.
Good Luck.
Bob.