a few questions, brakes,track rod ends,wheel set up

[leonard douglas]

now im really trying to get my car running smooth each time i go to do something another question pops up.

firstly i took off the wheels to look at the brake condition.
the front disc appeared pitted , should i get them ground smooth , and i was told that the old master cylinder may not work after i drain the system. where can i buy a spare , or a conditioning unit? which is better?

also
on the rear of my 1966 122s there is a nut in the centre of the place where the wheel screws on, in front of the drums. on both sides this nut was not tight just screwed on with a metal tie running though it, my friend suggested that this should br tight but seeing as it was loose on both sides perhaps its supposed to just be screwed on loosely? any advice , sorry im not so clear.

finally ,

i need a few track rod ends and rubbers for the lever system for the automatic gear shifter under the car as its held toghether with wire.

also i see a capicitor for the overdrive in the engine bay . should i ahve an overdrive switch or does this happen auto matically on the car?

so a few questions and advice where to get parts . im in ireland so uk or ireland perhaps would be best.

thanks .

hope thats not too many questions in the one space.

leoanrd

[Stanleywindrush]

Hi,

I may be able to help with the braking system as I had 13months of problems with mine.

First question us why you think the pitting in the front disks is a problem. If the car pulls to one side or another this is a number of reasons, the pitting is frankly the last;
Is it incorrect toe in on one side, are the disks warped, has the wheel a kink, or are they balanced correctly? (has it a flat spot from years of standing?)

To be honest replacement of any brake part is a pain, but bleeding after replacement should be easy..if you have any problems (e.g continual bubbles in bleeding line) you have more problems than the part you have replaced!

My issue was with a faulty brass cruciform on the bulk head- the steel male couplings had mis threaded and let small amounts of air in......

Let me know why you think the disks should be replaced..

You can actually replace the disks with never bleeding the system, or interferring with the brake fluid levels!!

Let me know

Baz
07962 319339

[mike gilbert]

The nuts on the rear axle are holding on the brake drums and should most definately be tight - very tight. The pin is only to prevent them working loose, not to hold the nut on. Yours sounds dangerous.
Mike

[amazondean]

Like Baz has said, the discs will only need replacing if you feel there is a problem with the ballence of the car. If they don't look worn and the car pulls up straight and smooth they will be fine. Sometimes you think that there is air still in the system after bleeding when you never seem to get a good pedal, but often it is the rear drums not adjusted up properly on the rear shoes!

The rear centre nut does need to be tight as it is holding the half shaft in place. Although the half shaft is driven on a taper and held in position via a square key. If the nut is loose the drum could come away from the half shaft and damage the taper and key. I presume the split pin is still in as you could loose the wheel if not. It may be that someone couldn't tighten the nut up to the next hole for the split pin. If this is the case you either need a longer bar to tighten it up or a thin washer behind the nut to move the position of the hole to make it easier to line up the split pin. I don't think there is a torque setting as you are not tightening on to a bearing, just pressure on the taper.

I don't know anything about automatics, they look bloody complicated if you ask me. The manual gearbox lasts for ever and is cheap to replace ( I have four under my bench as spares

Dean

[leonard douglas]

thanks for the advice.

where is good to get parts from, ie track rod end and master cylindr conditioning kit /and/or master cylinder?

the brakes work evenly but not very strongly . so i felt the front disks could be the prob, when i spin the front wheel the disk rubs a little at one point in the revolution, but it could be the rear durms, i know little about these. the hand brake works well though.

thanks again

[amazondean]

Brookhouse volvo parts is your best bet. There is no point trying to ring round, they will have everything. You say that the disc is rubbing on the caliper piston in one place and in the same centance you say it could be the rear drums. Do you mean that as you are rolling along you can hear the brakes rubbing but are not totaly sure were it's coming from? Jack the front end up and spin both front wheels, if the brakes are rubbing to the point that it is definately slowing the wheel down and continues to do so I would suspect you will need the callipers reconditioning. The disc is probably warped too but if the callipers was working properly the pistons in the caliper would be pushed back in anyway.

Then jack the rear end and support it. Spin the rear wheels. Yoy should just hear the brakes binding very slightly. If not turn the adjuster until they are. Although the adjusters are probably siezed. You will most likely need to take the rear drums off and inspect, which will need a hefty puller.

What makes you think you need to recondition the master cylinder? The usual problem with the master cylinder is the pedal slowly going down to the floor.

Dean