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PV, 120 (Amazon), 1800 General Forum for the Volvo PV, 120 and 1800 cars |
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Boot springs - any options?Views : 1126 Replies : 13Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Aug 27th, 2024, 22:59 | #1 |
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Boot springs - any options?
The boot lid on my Amazon would barely stay open on its own when I got the car. After registration and mounting the license plate, it gave up completely. I'm not sure how common of a problem this is.
I bought some new torsion bars and made up a tool based on some vague pictures I found on a different forum. Removing the old bars were fairly easy, and the ends were offset from each other. Probably why there were no tension left in the lid. Installing the new bars have been seemingly impossible. During the installation attempts there have been said things that I'm not proud of. Eventually it was realized they're not identical to the old ones. The general shape is there, but the bends are a few millimeters off, which causes problems. Attempts have been made to manipulate and tweak the bars in a vise. It's close, but still doesn't fit. It hooks into the lid hinge now, but the L on the other end is impossible to get into the hook in the body. Had a friend over today where we both wrestled with it, and eventually gave up. Are there any alternative options available? Does anyone sell coil springs, gas struts or other solutions for Amazon? I just want my boot lid to stay open on its own without the need for a broom shaft.
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1958 Amazon 4-door saloon |
Aug 28th, 2024, 00:56 | #2 |
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Sam;
Often, reposition the Torsion Springs into their second preload position with the SVO 2572 Tool brings back the necessary force to help keep the lid open... See also: https://www.sw-em.com/Trunk-Lid%20To...ng%20Notes.htm Good Hunting! |
Aug 28th, 2024, 20:33 | #3 |
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Another excellent article. Thank you, Ron!
Unfortunately my springs were in the second position, which is why I chose to buy new. Didn't appear to be any further way to increase the tension. 20240827_183432.jpg The upper one is the new spring. As mentioned, the general shape is there, but it isn't the same. The bends are not as sharp, and this part is also 5 mm wider. It didn't fit into the slot where it pivots. In the picture I have already tweaked it a bit, but still have fitment problems. We managed to get it into the pivot slot after some force had been applied, but were unable to hook it into the body on the other end. We pulled on the rod in order to retract it, but couldn't get it into place with my interpretation of the SVO2572 tool. We just couldn't retract it enough for it to swing into place. I were hoping some company were making kits with a different and more installation friendly solution. The new springs from VP just aren't good enough quality.
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1958 Amazon 4-door saloon |
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Aug 28th, 2024, 23:49 | #4 |
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some owners have fitted gas struts be very careful as its very easy to injure your self with these types of tension bar springs.
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Aug 30th, 2024, 23:08 | #5 |
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Were hoping some company made a gas strut retrofit kit or similar. I've seen struts advertised for Amazon, but no fitment hardware is provided. Probably just automatically generated based on my search query. This does make me think it isn't a very common problem with relaxed torsion bars. Perhaps I've been very unlucky with my car.
If anyone has retrofitted gas struts, what hardware were used and what were the specifications of the struts? Where was the fitment hardware attatched in order for the strut to operate properly?
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Sep 1st, 2024, 12:21 | #6 |
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It is a very common issue.
I have seen more tension added by putting a flat plate through where the rods cross each other. |
Sep 4th, 2024, 13:16 | #7 |
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A decent metal worker/engineering shop/blacksmith would be able to make them, folks with experience of judging where to apply bends.
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Sep 4th, 2024, 19:42 | #8 |
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I have given up trying to rpair this issue for two reasons: It can be a dangerous procedure and nice clean wood stick works very well.
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Sep 6th, 2024, 17:33 | #9 |
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There are 2 positions for the ends of the torsion bars. I can't remember which is which but you maybe in the weaker position. Another issue is that boot lids tend to rust out at the rear lip. Quick cure is strip out the rust and fill with bondo. This makes them heavier and being where it is increases the leverage.
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Sep 6th, 2024, 20:09 | #10 |
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Unfortunately any machine/metal shop in the area will not be much help. No shortage of them, but all would rather take on work from other industry rather than private individuals.
Certainly a lot of tension, but I am feeling confident with the SVO2572 tool. It does make it easy to manage the bar. I would like to get this properly repaired somehow, as I am fed up with the stick I have. Been one time too many where I've bumped into it when putting something into the boot. It's in the way too often. My bars were already set in the second potition, which would apply more tension. As mentioned, the ends are offset from each other. Worn out and weak on tension. I knocked on the boot lid and felt around, but it does appear to be steel and not body filler on the rear lip.
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