Help with a 75 164e wtih tripple carbs

[oldschoolrides]

I just picked up a 164e auto that has been converted to the solex tripple carb setup. From what I have researched it has the marine manifold on it. I bought the car non running. They guy said he was just driving it died like it ran out of gas. So he put a new pump on new filters new fuel regulator. New cap rotar an wires.

I have check fuel is flowing good to the carb an they seem to be flowing good. But i think it may be out of firing order or something it will fire for a few seconds but not stay running. Any information on the ignition system? I also seen that it has vacum advanced on the dizzy is disconnected from the manifold.

[Eddy Matthews]

I used to have a 164 with the B30 engine many years ago....

Can't remember the firing order, but I'm fairly sure it's either 1,6,3,5,2,4 or 1,5,3,6,2,4

Someone will hopefully be along soon, to say what is correct - I'm not sure I'd trust my memory!!

Regards
Eddy

[oldschoolrides]

Originally Posted by Eddy Matthews

I used to have a 164 with the B30 engine many years ago....

Can't remember the firing order, but I'm fairly sure it's either 1,6,3,5,2,4 or 1,5,3,6,2,4

Someone will hopefully be along soon, to say what is correct - I'm not sure I'd trust my memory!!

Regards
Eddy

Cool thanks!

I also seen on the fire wall next to the coil it looks like a ceramic resistor the coil plugs into also. Anyway to test those?

[Brock05]

The ceramic resistor is a Ballast resistor to drop the coil supply voltage. It is bypassed during cranking so could give the symptom you are describing, the car will crank, start and then die when you release the key from the crank position. I think the 164 resistor is 9 ohms, you can test it with a multimeter. I would try cleaning the connections first as they seem pretty reliable. Be interested to know how you get on with the car as i am thinking of doing a 3 carb conversion to my own 164.

[oldschoolrides]

I tested it .9 - 1.1 ohms it gets hotter than a fire cracker with the key on I know that!

[oldschoolrides]

Well I got it running good! Bypassed the resistor an she fired right up! The guy I bought it off replaced all kinds of stuff. Fuel pump filters... plugs wires cap rotor. Im stoked!

[Mike B]

Originally Posted by oldschoolrides

Well I got it running good! Bypassed the resistor an she fired right up! The guy I bought it off replaced all kinds of stuff. Fuel pump filters... plugs wires cap rotor. Im stoked!

Have you checked or changed the coil ??
The coil is fed 12v on starting then about 9v though the restor , also the ing switch could be faulty as it supplys the 12v in cranking pos then 9v in running pos .
fault found rearly over 50 plus in repairing older motors !!
Give me up dated and will scratch the old brain box LOL
Regards
Mike B

[oldschoolrides]

I will have to check it out. I know when the resistor was hooked up it was super hot! I had my assumptions when I first bought it, because the wire on positive side to the coil from the resistor was melted. Is there such a coil that doesn't need a resistor.

[Audrey Old]

Interesting what you say re ballast resistors, as I have a similar problem with one of my 164s (not currently in use, so no panic yet). When its turn comes I'll go straight to it!

Just one thing - I thought 164Es were all fuel-injection? In which case IIRC the dizzy and fuel tank are different to those in carb cars. Did the previous owner change these too?

The former owner of one of mine reverted to a carb engine in it, but he changed everything - the engine number wasn't the same as the official papers showed. That doesn't worry me though!

Paul

[oldschoolrides]

Yeah I will have to post some pictures for the inquiring minds. Its runs good. Only thing I noticed its been doing when you rev it it stays at 3krpm an wont go down. But only does that in park. I messed with the heater controls so it maybe a vacum leak or something.