Engine: 2.8 F/Inj B28E: Pattern of inlet bores

[Pretty240]

Hi there,

I've got a 1981 Volvo 264 with the B28E V6. I'm rather scared by the fuel consumtion and lack of power so I'm investigating engine management systems. Does anyone know of anybody who's done this before? Does anyone know where I could find a pattern for the inlet/outlet bores off the block?
Cheers,
Julian

[MazakMan]

Originally Posted by Pretty240

Hi there,

I've got a 1981 Volvo 264 with the B28E V6. I'm rather scared by the fuel consumtion and lack of power so I'm investigating engine management systems. Does anyone know of anybody who's done this before? Does anyone know where I could find a pattern for the inlet/outlet bores off the block?
Cheers,
Julian

I'm assuming you mean EFI rather than LPG when you say management.
Why would you need to know the inlet/outlet pattern of the (I think you mean) cylinder head? The exhaust can stay as it is, the most that would need doing would be to weld in some lambda sensor bosses, even that is not 100% necessary. On the inlet side you might be able to find some injectors to fit the existing k-jet apertures, if not just modifiy them!

If I'm missing something that a proper Volvo nerd would know please tell me before I make a complete prat of myself.


Isaac

[Pretty240]

I'm not sure what EFI means but I definatly don't mean LPG! I wanted to know the pattern of the inlets on the head as I'd thought of going with throttle bodies. As to the exhaust the manifold is a straight box with the no thought of gas flow and I'm assuming that a freer flowing manifold would also improve the MPG.

[MazakMan]

Originally Posted by Pretty240

I'm not sure what EFI means but I definatly don't mean LPG! I wanted to know the pattern of the inlets on the head as I'd thought of going with throttle bodies. As to the exhaust the manifold is a straight box with the no thought of gas flow and I'm assuming that a freer flowing manifold would also improve the MPG.

EFI = Electronic Fuel Injection.

Throttle bodies won't really help you be more efficient, they're more of a pretty serious power upgrade, i.e. after porting/polishing the head, long duration/high lift cams, big exhaust, big air filter, lots of other expensive fiddling... And they're bloody expensive, you're looking in the region of £100 per body and you'll need 6, plus linkages (£50) and a custom manifold (£300 x 2), then injectors (£50 each), it soon adds up in a really bad way...

As to the exhaust a free flow manifold is really about helping flow at high gas speeds, i.e. high RPM, which still won't help your MPG much and again it'll need to be custom (£300) and you'll need two...

Are you thinking of doing the management conversion yourself or getting it done for you by a specialist?
Either way I highly recommend you go here http://www.msefi.com/index.php and read everything

The first thing to do to improve your consumption would be to give the engine/drivetrain and damn good service - change all the filters (air oil fuel), change the oil, new spark plugs, new ignition leads, new distributor cap and rotor arm, new coil, clean all the breather pipes, check all the induction pipe work. Then have the fuel system pressure tested and reset if necessary.

You might be surprised how good the standard setup can be when in good condition.

Isaac

P.s. Whereabouts in the country are you? I'd be more than happy to come and help you if you're not too far away.

[MazakMan]

And probably a good idea to check the ignition timing.

Isaac

[Pretty240]

I'd thought that throttle bodies would increase the mpg as well as the power. I realise there bloody expensive but if it make the difference I'd hope for then I think it could be worthwhile. I'd been looking at the Emerald web site for some of my info but the mega squirt forums look fascinating.
I realise that I'm generating quite a bill here and I'm trying to sort out the parts that will make a noticable difference from those that will only increase the power, not that I'm against that.
The way I see it, I spent £600 on the car so that's still leaves me with quite a bit of change when compared with a 5 year old whatever.

I'll get on with your list of jobs:
The first thing to do to improve your consumption would be to give the engine/drivetrain and damn good service - change all the filters (air oil fuel), change the oil, new spark plugs, new ignition leads, new distributor cap and rotor arm, new coil, clean all the breather pipes, check all the induction pipe work. Then have the fuel system pressure tested and reset if necessary.

I don't know how to test the fuel system or reset it, nor entirely sure what I'd be checking the induction system for, leaks I assume? Your offer to come down and help (I'm on the Isle of Wight) would be much appriciated once I get in to some serious fiddling but I'm still at the investigation stage at the moment.

I'm getting about 13-15mpg round the island and 18-21 on long runs. From what I can find out this seems to be about the best I can expect from the standard set up. What would you be expecting?

[Pretty240]

As an afterthought, is there any trick to getting the spark plugs out or are they just a bugger?

[Pretty240]

The engine also won't start properly when hot but it's fine when cold. It 'chugs' and sounds a bit like it's firing on one cylinder when it'll start at all. If you then give it some revs it'll pick up very slowly untill about 2500-3000 revs and then suddly spring into life and everything running as it should. Any ideas?

[MazakMan]

Originally Posted by Pretty240

The engine also won't start properly when hot but it's fine when cold. It 'chugs' and sounds a bit like it's firing on one cylinder when it'll start at all. If you then give it some revs it'll pick up very slowly untill about 2500-3000 revs and then suddly spring into life and everything running as it should. Any ideas?

You may have a problem with retaining fuel pressure; either the non return valve in the pump, or the spring in the fuel accumulator, most probably the valve. This is a really common problem with k-jet.

Originally Posted by Pretty240

I don't know how to test the fuel system or reset it, nor entirely sure what I'd be checking the induction system for, leaks I assume? Your offer to come down and help (I'm on the Isle of Wight) would be much appriciated once I get in to some serious fiddling but I'm still at the investigation stage at the moment.

The kit for testing the fuel sytem is not too complicated but it does require that you a) have a pretty good knowledge of how it works and b) have all the specifications to hand. Probably better to entrust it to a garage, ideally a specialist, it shouldn't cost much more than £50 - £100 to have it tested and, if necessary, reset.

About the induction pipe work, I dropped the ball a bit there; I forgot that as your engine is a 'V' the fuel metering head is probably between the two banks of cylinders and sealed directly to the inlet manifold, so air leaks are pretty unlikely. On inline engines the metering head is normally joined to the inlet by a rubber boot or pipe and these often leak giving all sorts of trouble.

It's a pity I no longer live on the Island but it's still no more than a few hours away and if you do decide to go the whole hog it'd probably be a bit of a laugh and I'd definitely be up for it.

Originally Posted by Pretty240

I'm getting about 13-15mpg round the island and 18-21 on long runs. From what I can find out this seems to be about the best I can expect from the standard set up. What would you be expecting?

I couldn't honestly give you any specific figures but I do know that in general driving round the Island does give awful MPG!

Oh and spark plugs are always a bugger.

Isaac

[vanapeer]

CI FUEL INJECTION SYSTEM FAULT TRACING 240,260