Engine: D5: D5 troubles.. any ideas?

[Thassos]

Its a long story.. some weeks ago had an engine service required message come up randomly, along with an anti skid service message that had also randomly been appearing and then clearing.. Had the codes read and got the following

6662, 6663 and 6665 (glow plugs 2,3,5 intermittent)
1890,1870,1880 (swirl actuator:- jammed, neg drift, faulty signal)
2810,28E0,28D0 (O2 sensor signal related)
135F (Maf sig too low)

I checked/replaced the lefhand 3 glowplugs (is no1 cylinder LHS or RHS?) and this improved start up and idling smoothness but the engine ran pretty jumpily at low revs, and seemed to be getting worse, especially from from cold, i also read somewhere that glowplugs are used in the DPF regen cycle, so perhaps this had been affecting regen (would you normally get an engine service msg if a glow plug was dud?)

Having many years ago checked the throttle body and found a massiv amount of crud in there, (around 80k) i pulled off the hoses around the throttle body and egr (car now at 145k miles) and quelle surprise.. take a look at the attached pics _1 thru 3 !!

I cleaned out all of the throttle body and port in egr (however im not sure if the exhaust cooler side might have junk in it, but didnt want to removed the whole assy at this point (can the front piece be disassembled from the cooler section leaving the cooler in situ to clean out, or is it necessary to extract the whole EGR to clean this side?) while i was there i took off the front plastic 'pierberg' piece (green arrow-3rd pic) to investigate whats in there , this has 2 fork type connections that i guess go to the motor that works the cam on the EGR valve (see pic below), measured what might be the coil resistance probing in the 2 holes and got a low ohm resistance that could be the motor 3 ohms? (2red arrows in last pic) , there is also a plunger (pot? or hall sensor?), which i guess monitors the position of the cam/valve, seems to be no connection from the fork pins to the connector pins on this piece so i can only assume theres some electronics potted within? or is it simply a pot and the 2 motor pins? (if so mines broken!) its a 6way connector only 4 pins fitted, on the loom side i see these colours

1= Yel
2= Grn White
3= Grn/White
6=Brown/Black (see 3rd picture below)

There is also an actuator below this that does something with the cooler side i think, looks like operated from a vac solenoid (which measures ok) on top of housing could this control coolant flow thru egr cooler? lots of guessing here as I have no info apart from dr haynes which is somewhat lacking on egr info..

The egr valve appears closed, not sure if it could be contributing to the car running very roughly and kangarooing when warming up from cold.


I did find an interesting (and very long) thread on what sounds very similar
https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/archi...x.php/t-230401

Anyway i took it for a run after the de coke (its a long story this one...) and initially it seemed better, however after 10-15miles the performance really dropped off and it would only produce 3psi boost max, (could this be limp home mode?? never had this before..) when i read the codes on my ELM bluetooth it reported some new codes

P0406 Exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) valve position sensor A - high input
P242F Diesel particulate filter (DPF) - blockage/ash accumulation

I put all the inlet pipework back together/airbox and tried to start (initially ticked over fine, but as i started moving off it was struggling, with some kangaroo ing in 1st gear on light throttle it seemed to be running better as it warmed up, but after some miles i re checked the fault codes and it was only showing P242F (DPF filter restriction ash) but the other faults to do with MAF, O2 sensor and EGR had disappeared, in this mode it ran but boost only got to 3psi and performance gone, at one point the MIL (engine?) yello symbol also came up on the dash although the anti skid message had gone, just the engine service message on the DIM (as usual), the engine did seem to be running hot in the exhaust area so i wonder if it was trying to regen, only did 5-10 miles and parked it up. Next day i added some Forte DPF cleaner to the fuel, and took it for a long drive, kept driving despite the engine only going to 3psi boost and after maybe 40miles, 90mins it started to pick up, with boost maybe 10-12psi, i also noticed as i drove with my foot off the accelerator sometimes it would show 0.5psi or 0.3psi instead of zero (is this a sign of regen activity of some sort?) its a pity you cant see when its trying to regen anyway after 2 hours i rechecked the ECU on an ELM327 + scanmaster and it came back with no codes at all, and I/M readiness all of those shown were pass/ok, so it would appear no fault codes or MIL (well at least the ones scanmaster can read). At one point the dash anti skid message reappeared (not sure if its connected to this problem) But the engine still isnt running as it used to i seem to recall boost was up to 30psi, and im also wondering if it could be the Turbo VNT sticking as there seems to be a lot about that on the forum, yesterday i had a look round the intercooler and noticed the bottom edge of it has some black oily deposits, plus some alu fins crumbling away on the bottom row so im now wondering if this could be leaking?

Anyway im very much in need of some help, before i loose the plot and sent it to the crusher! or webuy anycar ! I cant believe how its gone from ultra reliable to awful in the space of a few weeks ! so if you have had any similar experiences that you managed to fix it would be very helpful..or if you have vida and are in the kent / sussex area (thats hoping!)

[oilit]

Sounds like a possible blocked dpf to me, but tbh you need to connect it to Vida and get the real story - the problem with the std readers is it’s giving std codes, Vida gives you so much more detail.

Example I had was my v70 gearbox started playing up - my std reader gave all sort of codes. Got Vida on it and it clearly showed thermostat failure. Gearbox oil had got too hot.

Change thermostat and oil in gearbox and life has been good.

Find someone with Vida is my first recommendation.

[Thassos]

Think ive found the culprit.. intercooler, took some of the under plastickery off and could see the intercooler was bowed downward in the centre, also some evidence of black oily residue on the inlet side and blown patch on the vertical plastic..

So my final question (not getting too many answers today .. ), swapping out the intercooler, do you need to drain coolant and remove the rad, or can you remove the fan and undo the rad to get enough room to manouver the new intercooler into the centre of the sandwich?, mine seems to have a pressure sensor on the ic outlet side, and is it better to remove the front bumper skin or is this not necessary?

Surely someone on here has had to swap theirs ?..

[Simmy]

hi thassos the intercooler will come out from between other rads make shure the car is up high enough to extract it from below the car might need a forced regen with vida or other top quality code reader . its quite a brutal process but every thing needs to work egr glowplugs dpf pressure sensor exhaust temp sensor to get a successful regen..there are companys like dpf doctor who will come out with all the equipment and check if its possible to clear your dpf. good luck and keep us posted with your results

[reggit]

Did the intercooler from the top on my old P2 E3, if I remember front bumper and slam panel off, fans out and it slid out of the radiator pack once the bolts where undone, I seem to remember I put the new one in 90 degrees out of position and could turn it as it lowered into the radiator sandwich, I didn’t need to disturb the coolant or a/c from memory. Probably a thread on here from around 2018 somewhere.
https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=281245

[cheshired5]

I find it easiest to drop both the intercooler and coolant radiator together as per the official Volvo method but there are several methods to achieve the same result.

[Thassos]

Hi cheshired, is vida s method to drain coolant, remove rad, fan, and intercooler all as one lump? if you have any info would be handy, as im due to swap it out as soon as a new one arrives

this approach is removing the bumper skin, and top panel
https://youtu.be/XNOZifX4aGg

[cheshired5]

Originally Posted by Thassos

Hi cheshired, is vida s method to drain coolant, remove rad, fan, and intercooler all as one lump?

Nearly.....
You unplug and remove the fan first from the top (2 screws) which creates a ton of space then yes and on the several P2s I've done, it works very well.

You tie up the condenser to the slam panel using cable ties, remove the horizontal bolts which hold the triple pack together then the final job is to unplug and relocate any ac or other wiring and pipes which may snag then remove the 2 vertical bolts allowing the intercooler and radiator to drop down.

Don't remove the vertical bolts until you're certain everything will drop easily as both radiators are reasonably heavy and you don't want to be moving stuff whilst taking the weight of the radiators. The ac receiver/drier canister may cause a snagging issue but can be left in place and worked around if you're careful.

Also, wear eye protection as you may have several years of crap, dead flies and dust falling down from between the radiators.

Treat the car to a coolant flush and new radiator whilst you're there and you won't need to revisit the area for many years bar any mishaps with the ac condenser and swap the boost sensor between intercoolers whilst off the car.

I hate removing bumpers and trim in general so I avoid it at all costs.

[cheshired5]

Originally Posted by Thassos

https://youtu.be/XNOZifX4aGg

I've seen that video and it doesn't tell the whole story.
Up to you but I would avoid that method.

[PjPZummerzet]

Hi Thassos
I have that code, P242F, on my S60 D5. Have you fixed it, if so, what was the issue? Thanks.