3 Mechanical Questions about my 67 1800S

BombFactory · Dec 21st, 2007, 02:37

I have been working on the 67 1800S and have 3 questions to ask on the forum. I’ll list the questions below, and any help with this stuff would be appreciated.

1. The heater fan doesn’t appear to be working. I have yet to test for current to and from the heater switch. Before doing this, I wanted to check the fuses. The owner’s manual I found online is only talking about the three fuses located on the left side inner fenderwell in the engine compartment, by the master cylinder. Are these the only fuses on this car, or is there a fuse box somewhere else?

2. The water temperature and oil temperature gauges are not working. I checked the sensor lines and they are not broken or kinked anywhere. Could someone explain to me how these senders/gauges work? I am familiar with the gas-filled mechanical tubes, but I’m not sure if these sender lines are gas-filled or not. Anyone have advice for checking to see if it is the gauge display or the sending units at fault?

3. I would like to tune up the SU carbs by making sure the linkage is adjusted correctly so the carbs are in tune with each other, and also that the fuel mixture is correct. There is a throttle linkage shaft that connects the two carbs (it runs from front to rear of the car.) The back end of this shaft (by the firewall) rides in a bracket that holds it in place. There is a plastic ring that is snapped into the hole in the bracket, but there is about 1/8 inch of room between this plastic ring and the throttle shaft. This allows the throttle shaft to move around in the hole and it really messes with the carburetor linkage settings. Just by jiggling the shaft the idle speed drops and rises a lot. My question is: is there a bushing or grommet of some sort that is supposed to go in this bracket hole so that the throttle shaft is firmly locked in place in the hole? If someone could even post a picture that would be great.

Thanks for the help, and Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year!

Andrew (UK) · Dec 21st, 2007, 08:27

1) They're the only fuses.

2) They are, IIRC, ether filled. It doesn't take much to lose the ether. Of course the mechanical end ie the gauge head itself, could have jammed or slipped. There are instructions online somewhere on how to do a DIY repair of these if it is the ether escaped. It involved buying a cheap aftermarket gauge with a similar bulb and then grafting it onto your gauge. The ether was cooled with ice to stop it all escaping while doing the switch.

3) Download the parts catalogue from http://www.gcp.se/ and take a look at part 2d. I'm not sure I understand what you are describing. The shaft that links the throttle plates only runs between the two carburettors, attaching to their throttle shafts at either end. The shaft that runs back to the firewall is not involved in the synchronisation of the carbs. See the attached picture. The silver shaft, middle left, links the two throttle shafts. The black looking one runs back to the firewall.

Gordon Hunter · Dec 21st, 2007, 09:05

Glad to hear you are making progress.

3. -My car was like this when I first got it. -The bush was actually missing. However, I have seen different thicknesses of link rods on a number of cars I have had in. They were possibly cobbled together from a different model or even make.
Maybe it is possible that someone has fitted the wrong diameter plastic bush to yours, or, perhaps it is just worn. Either way you can get replacements for next to nothing.
Try IPD on your side of the pond or any old Volvo place for that matter.

Andrew, some very helpful stuff there about the filament tubes. I had been told that they were mercury filled and never bothered trying to fix them!
I guess a standard plumbers freeze kit would do the job?
A link to the web site you mention would be extemely helpful.

Many thanks,

Gordon

Andrew (UK) · Dec 21st, 2007, 09:25

Hi Gordon,

I just found the instructions at http://www.ply33.com/Repair/tempgauge
A quick google for "temperature gauge ether repair" did the trick. There are variations on the theme and a lot of references back to that article. Someone also drilled a hole on the bulb, squirted starter fluid in and sealed the hole with a screw and teflon tape etc.

Andrew

BombFactory · Dec 23rd, 2007, 05:00

Thanks a lot Andrew and Gordon. That link to the gauge repair is great and will come in handy when repairing the gauge. I'm not positive that the problem is the sensor/line, but I'm not sure what else it could be. I guess a close examination of the gauge head will tell me if something is just gummed up in there. The bushing for the throttle is the one which you two are speaking of--sorry for any confusion. I will get on the horn and try to find a new bushing. Thanks again!

Derek UK · Dec 23rd, 2007, 12:42

If needed, this comment and link might be useful. From Yahoo Group 1800list.

"I had the oil/coolant temp gauge in the 67 rebuilt by these guys:
http://www.nisonger.com/
the price was very reasonable (~$175 w/shipping). i'm happy with the
results: temps seem to read accurately, and they cleaned it up nicely."

Nisonger, in NY I believe, have the proper tools for removing the chrome trims on the blue face instruments. Very easy to damage these when trying DIY repairs.

Dec 21st, 2007, 02:37	#1
BombFactory New Member Last Online: Mar 10th, 2008 01:08 Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: San Francisco	3 Mechanical Questions about my 67 1800S I have been working on the 67 1800S and have 3 questions to ask on the forum. I’ll list the questions below, and any help with this stuff would be appreciated. 1. The heater fan doesn’t appear to be working. I have yet to test for current to and from the heater switch. Before doing this, I wanted to check the fuses. The owner’s manual I found online is only talking about the three fuses located on the left side inner fenderwell in the engine compartment, by the master cylinder. Are these the only fuses on this car, or is there a fuse box somewhere else? 2. The water temperature and oil temperature gauges are not working. I checked the sensor lines and they are not broken or kinked anywhere. Could someone explain to me how these senders/gauges work? I am familiar with the gas-filled mechanical tubes, but I’m not sure if these sender lines are gas-filled or not. Anyone have advice for checking to see if it is the gauge display or the sending units at fault? 3. I would like to tune up the SU carbs by making sure the linkage is adjusted correctly so the carbs are in tune with each other, and also that the fuel mixture is correct. There is a throttle linkage shaft that connects the two carbs (it runs from front to rear of the car.) The back end of this shaft (by the firewall) rides in a bracket that holds it in place. There is a plastic ring that is snapped into the hole in the bracket, but there is about 1/8 inch of room between this plastic ring and the throttle shaft. This allows the throttle shaft to move around in the hole and it really messes with the carburetor linkage settings. Just by jiggling the shaft the idle speed drops and rises a lot. My question is: is there a bushing or grommet of some sort that is supposed to go in this bracket hole so that the throttle shaft is firmly locked in place in the hole? If someone could even post a picture that would be great. Thanks for the help, and Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year! __________________ The philosophers have only interpreted the world, in various ways; the point, however, is to change it. - Karl Marx

Dec 23rd, 2007, 05:00	#5
BombFactory New Member Last Online: Mar 10th, 2008 01:08 Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: San Francisco	Thanks a lot Andrew and Gordon. That link to the gauge repair is great and will come in handy when repairing the gauge. I'm not positive that the problem is the sensor/line, but I'm not sure what else it could be. I guess a close examination of the gauge head will tell me if something is just gummed up in there. The bushing for the throttle is the one which you two are speaking of--sorry for any confusion. I will get on the horn and try to find a new bushing. Thanks again! __________________ The philosophers have only interpreted the world, in various ways; the point, however, is to change it. - Karl Marx

Dec 21st, 2007, 09:05	#3
Gordon Hunter Ex 1800 Register Keeper Last Online: Apr 29th, 2022 17:04 Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Central Scotland	Glad to hear you are making progress. 3. -My car was like this when I first got it. -The bush was actually missing. However, I have seen different thicknesses of link rods on a number of cars I have had in. They were possibly cobbled together from a different model or even make. Maybe it is possible that someone has fitted the wrong diameter plastic bush to yours, or, perhaps it is just worn. Either way you can get replacements for next to nothing. Try IPD on your side of the pond or any old Volvo place for that matter. Andrew, some very helpful stuff there about the filament tubes. I had been told that they were mercury filled and never bothered trying to fix them! I guess a standard plumbers freeze kit would do the job? A link to the web site you mention would be extemely helpful. Many thanks, Gordon

Dec 21st, 2007, 09:25	#4
Andrew (UK) VOC Member Last Online: Dec 3rd, 2021 08:39 Join Date: Jan 1970 Location: Sutton, near Ely	Hi Gordon, I just found the instructions at http://www.ply33.com/Repair/tempgauge A quick google for "temperature gauge ether repair" did the trick. There are variations on the theme and a lot of references back to that article. Someone also drilled a hole on the bulb, squirted starter fluid in and sealed the hole with a screw and teflon tape etc. Andrew

Dec 23rd, 2007, 12:42	#6
Derek UK VOC Member Last Online: Yesterday 13:16 Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Chatham	If needed, this comment and link might be useful. From Yahoo Group 1800list. "I had the oil/coolant temp gauge in the 67 rebuilt by these guys: http://www.nisonger.com/ the price was very reasonable (~$175 w/shipping). i'm happy with the results: temps seem to read accurately, and they cleaned it up nicely." Nisonger, in NY I believe, have the proper tools for removing the chrome trims on the blue face instruments. Very easy to damage these when trying DIY repairs.

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