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1800E-cold starting

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Old Dec 10th, 2007, 09:21   #1
jocklow
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Default 1800E-cold starting

Two problems. First having checked all the connections, resistances etc I have converted the cold start injector to operation by a switch as the ecu didn't seem to be firing the injector. ( Early 1800E with timer in ecu not in external thermocouple). Is this a daft scheme with disaster around the corner, is it a common problem or what? Seems to work, but it's early days.
Second, I found that renewing the plugs revolutionised the starting. The old plugs looked ok and worked but obviously weren't producing a good enough spark while cold starting. The car has what looks like lumenition contactless points. Is the need for good plugs a known issue?
I'm a recent convert to the 1800E so any advice based on them is welcomed.
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Old Dec 10th, 2007, 11:26   #2
Pigeon
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The switch-operated cold start injector sounds like a very easy way to flood it. IME you don't really need the cold start injector. Mine didn't work but it was easy enough to pump the throttle a few times which fires the main injectors and gives a bit of extra fuel. I fixed it eventually but it was more for something to do than because it really needed it.

The FI engines are no more fussy about plugs than the carb ones, but old plugs do get manky while still appearing to work.
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Old Dec 10th, 2007, 12:35   #3
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Although its got a very simple and slightly crude FI system, it should still fire up pretty easily (at least as easily as a carb motor) provided it has the following:

a) Good compression
b) HT system in good order (perhaps not- replace the lot, its not dear)
c) injectors with a good spray pattern
d) no manifold airleaks.
e) timing set right, vacuum advance not punctured, and base idle settings ok.

You shouldnt really need the cold start injector unless it drops below freezing, a longer cranktime is the only disadvantage without it. As someone said, pumping the pedal acouple of times will fire the main injectors which should be plenty enough fuel.

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Old Dec 11th, 2007, 10:16   #4
jocklow
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Default Cold Starting

I think the conclusion I draw is that my cold starting problems were primarily due to the plugs. My manual activation of the cold start injector works and if you hold it on witha flick switch for only 2-4 seconds then I think flooding is not a problem. But I can see that it's something to be careful to avoid.
Thanks to those who replied.
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Old Dec 11th, 2007, 10:40   #5
B20F
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Quote:
e) timing set right, vacuum advance not punctured, and base idle settings ok.
The E and F engines don't have a vacuum advance but a vacuum retard. It was a poor solution to pass the emmission rules at the time.
This is best left off. Just remove this vacuum hose, and plug the hole at the manifold, leave the connection on the ignition open. This way it will run a lot smoother and uses less fuel. Volvo adviced this solution in a workshop bulletin for the B30E, but it works as well on a B20E. I did this on my '73ES and I'm very satisfied with how it runs.
http://volvo1800pictures.com/sb/2/2_...%20driving.htm
(Scroll down to #12)
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Old Dec 20th, 2007, 00:22   #6
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Cool soln

Quote:
Originally Posted by B20F View Post
The E and F engines don't have a vacuum advance but a vacuum retard. It was a poor solution to pass the emmission rules at the time.
This is best left off. Just remove this vacuum hose, and plug the hole at the manifold, leave the connection on the ignition open. This way it will run a lot smoother and uses less fuel. Volvo adviced this solution in a workshop bulletin for the B30E, but it works as well on a B20E. I did this on my '73ES and I'm very satisfied with how it runs.
http://volvo1800pictures.com/sb/2/2_...%20driving.htm
(Scroll down to #12)

This sounds like the simple solution that my mechanic suggested to overcome my recent problem with a noisy vacuum pump in my Volvo 262C. It works!

As a former owner of an 1800S I can relate to the "cold start" problem in your 1800E. Although your system is more advanced than my dual SU Carbs, the resistance to start in the damp & cold was chronic. I too found that good clean plugs helped. I was even know to clean the "points" with the striking surface for penny matches (mild sandpaper strip). Many time I would return from a trip & would face a challenge starting up the P1800S that had been parked in a damp cold airport parking lot for 8 hours or more. It was usually after midnight, and the solution that worked was to clean the plugs and a soft touch on the distributor points. Usually got me home. Guess I knew who was the boss, not me, but the P1800S! Miss that car.
Bill
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Old Dec 20th, 2007, 10:26   #7
DuncanS
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I have a 123 electronic ignition and this helps but does not solve cold starting fully as my cold start valve is not working at the moment. But following someones suggestions on this forum from sometime ago I turn the ignition key 2 or 3 times so the fuel pump works (mines an 1800ES) - but not turning the engine over. Then when I turn the engine over she starts right up. And this worked yesterday night after having left her in the airport car park since the weekend.

The main problem was scapping the ice off the windscreen!

Hope Santa brings all the Volvo things you wish for!!
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Old Dec 20th, 2007, 16:35   #8
cywprof
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That sounds like a good solution. I know that on very cold mornings I turn the ignition, lights, & other assessories on for a very short span of time. Turn them all off, wait a few seconds, and then start the engine. My theory is that the current moves slowly the first few seconds to respond to the demands of the assessories. While the demand to start a very cold engine with a very cold battery can be a challenge for both. I guess that's why you can buy plug in engine block heaters, battery blankets that plug in, etc.
I wouldn't heed my suggestion (turn a few items on) if your battery was already very weak. You might lose what little charge you had.

Canadian winters foster some pretty innovative cold start ideas. The most startling I ever heard was from a co-worker (Jean). After a 2-10 shift in the dead of winter she would pour a recently steaming kettle on or near the manifold. I kid you not. Funny thing is I remember her starting her vehicle while others struggled with conventional methods. I don't recall any cracked blocks or other horrors as a result of Jean's unconventional method. You never know, although I was hesitant to follow her lead.
regards,
Bill
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