XC60 D5 Power Steering Pump replacement

[bigwinn1975]

Just finished this so thought I'd do a brief write up, in case anyone needs it in future.

For reference the Haynes manual description of replacing the pump is probably 25% of the actual job- I'm fairly handy with spanners and it took me 5 hours... with no major hold ups!

Symptoms were poor power steering on idle, despite changing the fluid it made no difference- pump was at end of life

• remove engine cover
• jack up front of vehicle on stands- both wheels to help when bleeding the system
• remove OSF wheel and wheel well liner
• remove under tray
• haynes manual says to remove the wind deflector (?) behind the bumper, I removed the air intake rubber- there is no need to fully remove the metal air pipe but taking the bolts out that held it to the engine underside did assist
• take the accessory (alternator) belt off by inserting a T60 torx in the tensioner- check condition!
• take the air conditioning belt off
• drain the PAS pump reservoir using a siphon, saves losing lots of fluid on the floor
• undo the 3 10mm bolts under the A/C pump, drop that away and support it out of the way

Now for a load of stuff missed off in all written guidance

• loosen and take off the 4 10mm bolts on the outer pulley attached to the PAS pump- quite simple to get it to stop spinning by using a screwdriver in the holes. This is all done in the wheel well.
• once done, remove the pulley and slacken the 3 10mm bolts through the remaining pulley on the pump. these bolts are facing the offside of the vehicle.
• go to the nearside of the pump, there are another 3 bolts, 13mm from memory which also need to come off. you'll see at this point there is a bracket with an 8mm bolt in it which supports the pump from that side. undo the 8mm one too.
• Take the bracket off REMEMBERING how it goes back on! it will only go on one way!
• undo the T27 star securing the pipe at the top of the pump and free the other hose next to it, these are the in/out fluid pipes. lots of fluid will spill here so be ready to catch it.
• undo the 8mm securing nearby pipes to the bracket and undo the wiring- you'll see what I mean from the top of the engine bay, but A/C pipes and wiring are tied to the brackets.
• the pump should be free now- apart from the bracket at the 'offside' of the pump. this is secured by a final 10mm bolt again accessed via the holes in the pulley, once you have this off, remove the bracket and you should be able to wiggle the pump out and under the car

Refitting:

check you have the right pump (!)
get it back into the car, into rough position and resecure the offside bracket using the 1x 10mm
attach the nearside bracket and 3x10mm bolts loosely
3x 10mm bolts from offside secure the pump in position, then secure with the final 8mm bolt to the nearside bracket
reattach the feed and return pipes- I used new jubilee clips to be sure
reattach the outer pulley to the PAS pump and tighten
reattach the AC compressor, air intake, belts etc
re fill the reservoir- check for leaks

Bleed the system using Haynes guide
check for leaks
reattach wheel well, wheels and under tray

job done- made a huge difference

For reference no special tools needed apart from T60 for belts and a lot of patience to get AC belt back on

Pump was £88 from Autodoc

I asked 3 local garages to quote- none replied so I think they know its a cr4p job!

[Deck1ng]

Nice write up, thank you worth keeping on file.

[Electronix12]

What were your symptoms and milage?

I'm up at 178k Miles on my V60 D5 MY2013 and occasionally at low RPM the steering gets briefly heavier.

Pump slowly getting to EOL makes sense.

[bigwinn1975]

Originally Posted by Electronix12

What were your symptoms and milage?

I'm up at 178k Miles on my V60 D5 MY2013 and occasionally at low RPM the steering gets briefly heavier.

Pump slowly getting to EOL makes sense.

Exactly that bud

At idle it was like there was no power assist at all

If you upped the revs then it kicked in