Brake brand options

[cheshired5]

Originally Posted by grubby mits

What is the "blob" of what looks like filler or weld at the top of each caliper in your photo?

Because they're made by ATE who make the genuine calipers, they fill in the Volvo writing with filler and grind off the "Volvo" lettering on the other side.
Quite a few manufacturers do the same on cast parts if they also make the genuine part.
Saves making a different mould for an otherwise identical part.

A few more pics.

[Kev0607]

Originally Posted by grubby mits

Well.......

I have used Pagid on all my Volvos for years and never had a problem with them. On the occasions I have had brake judder it has been due to poor maintenance/fitting or lack of use such as no lube on the sliding pins, rust on the disc surfaces, seized or sticky caliper pistons etc. I just hesitate when folk say "warped discs" - sometimes its true but more often that not its just the glib and easy response.

Before you shell out on another set of brakes check the disc run out with a dial gauge and compare it with the specs. There are plenty of stories of guys who have changed the discs twice and not solved the problem.

GM

Lack of use maybe, certainly not due to poor fitting or no lubrication. I know how to fit brakes.... I’ve just never had any that cause a juddering steering.

I’ll try the driving with the brakes engaged trick (stopping to let them cool of course) to see if that helps. Although, being honest, I don’t think it will.

Testing the existing before buying makes sense though, I agree. I haven’t used a dial gauge before (never needed to) & I don’t particularly want to buy one because it’ll just be thrown in a draw & left unused (a single use tool basically... its not like there’s a queue of cars with potential warped discs at my house).

Is there anything else that can be used as an alternative to test my existing discs? (something that I may have in my garage already)...

[Ian21401]

It’s not as accurate as a dedicated dial gauge but will give you a good idea.
Select enough of the feelers to fill the gap between a part of the caliper or bracket and the swept area of the disc. You may have to remove the pads, depending on access. Slowly rotate the disc with the feelers in position. They may become slack or tight depending on the trueness of the disc. Adjust the thickness of the feelers to fit the slackest point and the tightest point. The difference will give you an approximation of the amount of run out.

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by Kev0607

I’ll try the driving with the brakes engaged trick (stopping to let them cool of course) to see if that helps. Although, being honest, I don’t think it will.

Keeping driving but without the brakes applied will cool them quicker than stopping to let them cool because the air will be flowing over the discs.

Also give some thought to my suggestion about the tyres flat-spotting and swapping the rear wheels with the fronts.

With a little ingenuity you could make a Heath-Robinson DTI using a Sharpie and something to hold it horizontal against the disc but only just touching then turn the disc and if there are any gaps or heavy lines you know the disc is warped. Might be as simple as a bit of corrosion behind the disc pushing it slightly out if it is out of true.

[grubby mits]

An interesting day. The repair kit arrived in the post so I stripped the old caliper but found the piston corrosion a bit worse than I had first thought. Whilst the corrosion was outside the sweep of the seal for now, if the piston was pressed back for new pads I could see the seal scrubbing on the pitting and weeping.

Then the reconditioned caliper arrived. It looked good and I was pleasantly surprised so fitted it. Not the same ATE numbers as Cheshired5, though they matched the numbers on my old caliper so all was well. Now all bled up and running.

The exchange caliper came from Motor Factors Direct and was an extremely reasonable £66. I can hardly believe the price! Hopefully it will last another 130,000 miles!!

GM

[grubby mits]

Oh - forgot the most important bit - the creaking noise has gone.

GM

[Tannaton]

Originally Posted by grubby mits

An interesting day. The repair kit arrived in the post so I stripped the old caliper but found the piston corrosion a bit worse than I had first thought. Whilst the corrosion was outside the sweep of the seal for now, if the piston was pressed back for new pads I could see the seal scrubbing on the pitting and weeping.

Then the reconditioned caliper arrived. It looked good and I was pleasantly surprised so fitted it. Not the same ATE numbers as Cheshired5, though they matched the numbers on my old caliper so all was well. Now all bled up and running.

The exchange caliper came from Motor Factors Direct and was an extremely reasonable £66. I can hardly believe the price! Hopefully it will last another 130,000 miles!!

GM

Bloody Norah.... a wooden handled screwdriver!! Probably worth a few quid now!

[grubby mits]

Originally Posted by Tannaton

Bloody Norah.... a wooden handled screwdriver!! Probably worth a few quid now!

Yes - it comes in very useful when you're wearing your wooden head!!!!

[Simmy]

no need for a dti just bolt a pointer made out of a welding rod or similar set it close to the disc and rotate it any warp should be seen .

[Rich850R]

Are warping discs actually a thing, I thought it was more down to pad pick up creating the impression a disc was warped?