Rear Discs, Pads and Shoes Replacement - Guide - Page 2

BestGear · Oct 8th, 2010, 22:00

Quote:

Originally Posted by REDSHEEPRIDD

Bestgear - love the picture posts, but cant believe the state of your discs before replacement - had you not used the car for weeks?

Yip - car had been sitting for two weeks doing nothing after being washed (discs left wet, obviously)!

David

BestGear · Oct 8th, 2010, 22:02

Quote:

Originally Posted by chb

OK folks, I have the discs (thanks to that nice Volvo dealer in Swansea), I have painted them so they don't corrode too badly.

Tomorrow looks like nice weather....so keep me covered I am going in!

More updates to follow.

HAVE FUN... you will have it done in no time...

David

chb · Oct 9th, 2010, 18:34

All done! PHEW. The pads and discs were easy.

Comments for those trying it themselves:

I found that I couldn't get my 7mm hex socket in to remove the caliper from the bracket. My ratchet would not fit because all the suspension components got in the way.
To get round this I unbolted the caliper and the caliper bracket as an entire unit, I then pulled this away from the disc so it was fully mobile (making sure I didn't stress the brake hose) and then removed the 7mm hex slide caliper pins/polts.

The discs on my car needed a bit of a clout to get them off but nothing excessive.

Now the hard bit! Christ on a bike, whoever invented brake shoe set up on XC90's clearly also designed that box in HellRaiser.

Bestgear is right when he says that the springs probably will not need replacing, I bought a set of the retaining springs for mine, but the old ones were fine. Getting the retaining springs out is an exercise in patience. I found it bet to use a pair of needle nose pliers to compress the whole spring, but even then it needs fiendish manipulation (not force!) to remove them.

The small tensioner spring on the shoes is easy to remove. However the main shoe return spring ( the longsest of the helical springs) is a real sod to fit. I wrestled with it for 10 minutes a side to get the shoes into a position where I could get the spring to stretch engough to locate it.

The brake shoes were shocking! One had completely lost its lining, and two were delaminating. Moral here is if you are working on the brakes, then change the shoes too!

One bit of good news. My car has the manual adjuster. After using a flatbladed screwdriver and a pair of needle nose pliers to remove the circlip I could turn the collar/sleave by hand. It needs a bit of strength (by soft office boy standards!) , but it is better than using pliers to turn.

I was dreading needing to make a bestgear type tool/pliers to re-tension the cable. I found it very easy to do this by hand. The cable is on a ratchet mechanism, so I just pulled it out several clicks. SO I NEEDED NO TOOLS FOR THIS BIT. Maybe once the brakes bed in I might be proved wrong.

Handbrake is now much better and the car is now ready for MOT!

400-ascona · Oct 9th, 2010, 19:02

I would always be tempted to buy the little curly springs that retain the hand brake shoes. Its common for them to have lost their tension. I didn't when I did my brakes, and had to make a thick shim to tension them back up again. According to the dealer its common.

syko · Oct 9th, 2010, 23:57

made me laugh looking at the rear handbrake shoes like mine were when i changed them last week, u will notice the flat spot on the shoes, from when people drive off with the handbrake still on

BestGear · Oct 10th, 2010, 11:30

Quote:

Originally Posted by syko

, u will notice the flat spot on the shoes, from when people drive off with the handbrake still on

I am not sure that is with folks driving off - I think they are made that way... every one I have seen has them...

David

chb · Oct 10th, 2010, 12:00

Yes, the shoes have a flatspot on them when new. I assumed the other poster was jesting.
Handbrake now bedded in quite well, will hold the car on the steep hill outside my house. I also replaced the pedal rubber on the footbrake. £8.59 well spent to get the car looking fresh again.

bobdabuilda · Oct 11th, 2010, 09:36

Fitted the rear bearings discs,shoes and pads, front discs n pads, painted the calipers and fitted mudguards this weekend.... saved over a grand from the dealers list prices and used all genuine volvo parts.

From the experience I'd say that it's worth getting the little one inch springs that locate in the guard as they bend easily and need retensioning.They are also a real sod to resite when they have been damaged. In my case there was so much rust on the inner surface of the disc that the shoes had wedged themselves solid in there. After much persuasion using the trusty lump hammer the disc came off but stretched those little springs in the process. The long retainer springs are fine to reuse but in my case weren't as hard to resite as those little springs.

Interestingly volvo had advised me that the shoes always need replacing when doing the discs because the shoes delaminate or break up. In my case the shoes were like new but i changed them anyway as I had already bought the new ones. In retrospect I'd have been better off buying the tensioner springs and keeping the old shoes as the don't wear a great deal due to the design of the system.

Agree that whoever invented the handbrake mechanism must have been heavily into S&M !!! As for the flat spot on the shoes that is there from new and is part of the design so NOT from driving off with the brake on!

I just used a 7mm hex key and a spanner hooked over the end for leverage to remove the caliper.

Thankfully I didn't need to adjust the cable although I did expose the mechanism just in case. Unfortunately my seat won't go back far enough to get easy access to the mechanism so have most of you removed the seat to get better access to it? I don't see how you can do it otherwise, as you'd have to have mouse hands to get in there!

I will post up some pics of the calipers later if I can get them off my dead phone!

BestGear · Oct 11th, 2010, 09:58

Quote:

Originally Posted by bobdabuilda

Unfortunately my seat won't go back far enough to get easy access to the mechanism so have most of you removed the seat to get better access to it? I don't see how you can do it otherwise, as you'd have to have mouse hands to get in there!

Access for me was tight, but the seat full back and up let me in ok.

Now, with all that money saved, what other toys will you buy?!?!?

David

PS - dont forget the pictures...

bobdabuilda · Oct 11th, 2010, 10:33

Hmm not the best pics but here you go....
With the money I saved I'd like to get an RSE but one with the dvd players within the headrest and a HDD linkup... Has anyone had the ebay ones fitted with the zip covers?

Oct 9th, 2010, 18:34	#13
chb Master Member Last Online: Dec 22nd, 2023 10:53 Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Leeds	All done! PHEW. The pads and discs were easy. Comments for those trying it themselves: I found that I couldn't get my 7mm hex socket in to remove the caliper from the bracket. My ratchet would not fit because all the suspension components got in the way. To get round this I unbolted the caliper and the caliper bracket as an entire unit, I then pulled this away from the disc so it was fully mobile (making sure I didn't stress the brake hose) and then removed the 7mm hex slide caliper pins/polts. The discs on my car needed a bit of a clout to get them off but nothing excessive. Now the hard bit! Christ on a bike, whoever invented brake shoe set up on XC90's clearly also designed that box in HellRaiser. Bestgear is right when he says that the springs probably will not need replacing, I bought a set of the retaining springs for mine, but the old ones were fine. Getting the retaining springs out is an exercise in patience. I found it bet to use a pair of needle nose pliers to compress the whole spring, but even then it needs fiendish manipulation (not force!) to remove them. The small tensioner spring on the shoes is easy to remove. However the main shoe return spring ( the longsest of the helical springs) is a real sod to fit. I wrestled with it for 10 minutes a side to get the shoes into a position where I could get the spring to stretch engough to locate it. The brake shoes were shocking! One had completely lost its lining, and two were delaminating. Moral here is if you are working on the brakes, then change the shoes too! One bit of good news. My car has the manual adjuster. After using a flatbladed screwdriver and a pair of needle nose pliers to remove the circlip I could turn the collar/sleave by hand. It needs a bit of strength (by soft office boy standards!) , but it is better than using pliers to turn. I was dreading needing to make a bestgear type tool/pliers to re-tension the cable. I found it very easy to do this by hand. The cable is on a ratchet mechanism, so I just pulled it out several clicks. SO I NEEDED NO TOOLS FOR THIS BIT. Maybe once the brakes bed in I might be proved wrong. Handbrake is now much better and the car is now ready for MOT! Last edited by chb; Oct 9th, 2010 at 18:37.

Oct 9th, 2010, 19:02	#14
400-ascona Premier Member Last Online: Yesterday 15:38 Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Derby	I would always be tempted to buy the little curly springs that retain the hand brake shoes. Its common for them to have lost their tension. I didn't when I did my brakes, and had to make a thick shim to tension them back up again. According to the dealer its common. __________________ 1997 V70R AWD, Saffron, Manual; Lotus Carlton; Ascona 400; Mini Cooper S Works; 4.2 Supercharged Range Rover; Mercedes C63 AMG Estate; Suzuki GSF1200N; BMW R80/7; Velocette Venom; Daimler V8 250.

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Oct 9th, 2010, 23:57	#15
syko Junior Member Last Online: Dec 4th, 2014 14:00 Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: sheffield	made me laugh looking at the rear handbrake shoes like mine were when i changed them last week, u will notice the flat spot on the shoes, from when people drive off with the handbrake still on

Oct 10th, 2010, 12:00	#17
chb Master Member Last Online: Dec 22nd, 2023 10:53 Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Leeds	Yes, the shoes have a flatspot on them when new. I assumed the other poster was jesting. Handbrake now bedded in quite well, will hold the car on the steep hill outside my house. I also replaced the pedal rubber on the footbrake. £8.59 well spent to get the car looking fresh again.

Oct 11th, 2010, 09:36	#18
bobdabuilda Premier Member Last Online: May 31st, 2022 11:32 Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: south	Fitted the rear bearings discs,shoes and pads, front discs n pads, painted the calipers and fitted mudguards this weekend.... saved over a grand from the dealers list prices and used all genuine volvo parts. From the experience I'd say that it's worth getting the little one inch springs that locate in the guard as they bend easily and need retensioning.They are also a real sod to resite when they have been damaged. In my case there was so much rust on the inner surface of the disc that the shoes had wedged themselves solid in there. After much persuasion using the trusty lump hammer the disc came off but stretched those little springs in the process. The long retainer springs are fine to reuse but in my case weren't as hard to resite as those little springs. Interestingly volvo had advised me that the shoes always need replacing when doing the discs because the shoes delaminate or break up. In my case the shoes were like new but i changed them anyway as I had already bought the new ones. In retrospect I'd have been better off buying the tensioner springs and keeping the old shoes as the don't wear a great deal due to the design of the system. Agree that whoever invented the handbrake mechanism must have been heavily into S&M !!! As for the flat spot on the shoes that is there from new and is part of the design so NOT from driving off with the brake on! I just used a 7mm hex key and a spanner hooked over the end for leverage to remove the caliper. Thankfully I didn't need to adjust the cable although I did expose the mechanism just in case. Unfortunately my seat won't go back far enough to get easy access to the mechanism so have most of you removed the seat to get better access to it? I don't see how you can do it otherwise, as you'd have to have mouse hands to get in there! I will post up some pics of the calipers later if I can get them off my dead phone!

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