S70: Engine Shaking & low power - 2000 s70 FWD Base Model

[rtjl]

Hey RollingThunder,

I agree that the real marketplace value will not warrant the actual costs I will spend in repairs. I'll keep it in mind, however I had no intentions of trying to turn a profit.

I'm also more than okay with paying a licensed mechanic to get it in order before i try to tinker with it. Ideally, i'll learn some very basic skills doing diagnostics that are being suggested, so I can have a better idea of what im looking at / fore before heading to mechanics.

Thank you for the honesty, but what makes you say i've been stung?

Appreciate your input,
Jonathan

[rtjl]

Hey Steve,

Thank you, I appreciate the sentiment.

The car is 'drivable' (doesnt really go beyond 50km/h ~ 30mph), but is allegedly not road legal due muffler damage & sound, as well as emergency brake* (someone can correct me on this?)

I do believe it was rustproofed, as a new vehicles over here generally are, but I can't really confirm it without getting underneath and scrubbing off some grime.

the salt in Toronto is... absolutely horrid. However, I believe its only been In Toronto for a few years the car was purchased near the US/Canada border between michigan and Sarnia.

I do not have a winter garage, but permitting it is simple work like swapping, rotating wheels, oil,etc; I should be okay.
Major maintenances will still be something to think about, but hopefully after all this work I do not need to do any major maintenances in the next 6 months..

I will briefly create a to do list including some of your points at the end of my posts.

Thank you,
Jonathan

[rtjl]

Small surprise;

I have nearly all maintenance history dating back to the day the car was purchased.

With very minimal gaps and no incidents, I am happy with that. If theres any scheduled maintenance in particular we should look at, let me know.

day 3 of Info gathering. This is what i've heard so far.

considerations:

- This is likely to exceed what i'm expecting to pay, and will not return the value I spend.
- It would probably be wise to use this as only a basics learning experience, and leave the important work to the professionals.
- It could always be a lemon.
- Get informed on the condition of underbody rust.
- Be prepared for unforseen down time in the winter.
- Join P80 Group, find Ontario members who may have leads.
- I should consider asking for help from experienced Volvo owners in my area.

Tools:

- get a toolset designed in the metric system.
- wrench/spanner
- and a 3/8 & 1/2 ratchet & sockets.
- Hydraulic jack (min 1.5Tons)
- 2 jack stands or ramps
- battery charger
- cylinder compression gauge.

Diagnostics recommended:

(CaSwede)
1) Clean ETM well
2) Replace Plugs
3) Replace Coils
4) Replace Injectors
5) Replace front engine mount in the front passenger wheel well

(steve)
Remove the spark plugs
Inspect the spark plugs - do they have physical damage?
Do a compression test
Look inside each cylinder with a cheap borescope to assess valves and cylinder condition
Possibly remove the intake manifold so you can look at some of the valves.
Get quotes for replacement engine, fitting, or rebuild.

[SteveSarre]

Hi rtjl

The recommendations from CaSwede don't address what seems to the main current known problem which is reported low compression.

Is the car now at your house?
As recommended before, get a compression gauge.

If you have low compression on one or more cylinders, then you will have to remove the cylinder head if you are lucky, but it could need much more serious work. You can't tell yet.

Does it lose coolant? Does it smoke? Is there coolant in the oil?

Since you have it, might as well run VIDA and see what current faults it reports.

By the way , the bolts that hold on the plastic cover are called Torx. I don't remember which sizes those particular bolts are - probably T20 or T25.

HTH
Steve

[rtjl]

Update;

I plan to begin purchasing the tools over the next 24hours. Will post the ones I've found before I do.

It doesn't seem to lose coolant or cause any smoke. I'm not sure how to determine if theres coolant in the oil.

I will confirm and responding to further messages tomorrow after I charge the car. Will run Vida as well.

Just curious, when running v1da, I generally have the car off, but that is what killed the battery last time.

Should the car be running prior to booting up V1DA? I've experienced V1DA crashing when starting up the car when the fault trace asks me to restart the car, so not sure if im doing something wrong.

-- additional notes --
- has Dry or wet pressure test been performed?
- cylinder head/piston ring/ valve inspect if possible
- burning valve may be resolved via top end rebuild
- check "O" ring seals on heater core pipes.
- transmission evaluation
- seek Parts sourcing options
- look into lifetime warranty brands (FCP?)
- if the engine is coming out, you have easier access for maintenance such as mounts, hoses, pcv, which effectively provides stage 0 car.

-- objectives --
I'd like to plan on keeping the car for as long as possible. I'm hoping on using it for 4-5 years from the result of my efforts after this is done. Ideally, longer.

-- Tools checklist --
- Torx set. You will encounter T8-T50 on the car. T35 for top cover
- Hydraulic jack (min 1.5 Tons) - (car is 3150-3208 lbs, should I get two?)
- 2 jack stands or ramps
- battery charger
- cylinder compression gauge.
- borescope lead that attaches to camera or phone
- Battery charger

If I have missed anything, Let me know.

-- Planned Procedure --
Record everything to confirm assumptions. May post the video for additional information.

note: Take pictures and measurements for bolts. Include diameter and length. Make note of origin and order of removal of each item.

Keep a notepad and write down each bolt that needs replacement to keep track of what and where is to be replaced.

-Battery charger
-code readings
-order tools
-Compression results confirm
-spark plugs check
-coils check
-cylinder inspect
-get quotes for engine replacement, fitting, or rebuild

if replacing top end:

-exhaust manifold remove
-remove cylinder head
-machine shop rework for cylinder head
-valves and seals replacement
-rebuild

if engine replace:

- Because I don't have the tools or the space for this, I may likely leave it to mechanics after quotes. Any additional feedback on what I can consider in this path is appreciated.
-As I am interested in 4-5+ years, I am in favor of this option, but feel like I will not get a product still in good condition if its available for a reasonable price. So not sure yet what is ideal for my objective.

-- costs evaluation on amazon.ca --
Battery charger - have
Vida/mongoose - have
Torx set - $50 CAD - LEXIVON Master TORX Bit set - T6-T70
(B0BRWPC354 on amazon)
Ratchet 3/8ths - $17.50 SATA 3/8-Inch Drive Quick-Release
(B07V4397T4 on amazon)
ratchet 1/2 - 19.30 - Neiko 03117A 1/2 Inch Ratchet Wrench
(B0BWHDR7HS on amazon)
3 ton capacity jack stands or ramps - 49.66 - Amazon Basics Steel Jack Auto
(B0753MMRN7 on amazon)
cylinder compression gauge - 37.99 AZUNO Compression Tester Automotive
( B098LNQXXC on amazon )
borescope lead that attaches to camera or phone - 45.99 - DPduct Dual Lens Endoscope Camer BIG RED AT82012U
(B0B5FJZVN8 on amazon)
Torin Hydraulic Jack - 85.14
(B0B5FJZVN8 on amazon)

--costs short--
$50 - Torx bit set
$17.50 - Ratchet 3/8
$19.30- ratchet 1/2
$49.66 - 2x jack stands (3 ton capacity)
$37.99 - Compression tester
45.99 - Boroscope
85.14 - Jack

305.58 before taxes and coupons.
345.30 Cad after taxes before coupons.

If any of the above parts (amazon ASIN codes included) are of poor quality or brands are known for bad quality, or I am missing crucial items, please let me know.

--Shop rebuilds--
Haven't looked at legitimate quotes as I haven't resolved exact needs.

Considering this as a rough estimate ( first result on google, 2023 prices, not familiar with shop.) Prices are in CAD.

https://extremeengines.ca/machine-shop-price-list

-- rare / watchlist parts --
(To be edited)

[SteveSarre]

Hi rtjl

Your Amazon.ca codes don't work for me on amazon.ca

With each ratchet you need some sockets

The 1/2 inch sockets should probably range from 13mm to 21mm
The 3/8 inch sockets should probably range from 10mm to 15mm
A 1/4 ratchet (probably from about 4mm to 13mm) will be useful down the road.

You will also need a 3/8 socket to remove the spark plugs. I don't have the sizes in front of me, but they come in two sizes. If you search for suitable spark plugs you might be able to work out the correct socket size,.

I don't think you mention any wrenches/spanners.
You will need those too.

But I would encourage you just get what you need to remove the spark plugs and measure the compression. Sometimes a starter tool kit has most of the essentials in one handy case.

HTH
Steve

[rtjl]

Hey Steve,

I think I may have double posted some of the search codes.
I swapped some tools for a decent set.
Here is the list:

https://www.amazon.ca/hz/wishlist/ls...?ref_=wl_share

Thanks for the help,
rtjl

[SteveSarre]

Hi rtjl

The SAE sockets and wrenches are for older American cars. (I don't know about current American cars). For Volvo you only need Metric tools.

HTH
Steve

[rtjl]

Hey Steve & readers,

I'm not sure if its oil in the coolant, its hard to tell and its not very visible on the photo. It would appear there may be.

There is definitely some build up underneath the oil cap. The car has only really had short runs, but when I took off the cap it was smoking a little white.

The transmission oil was also checked and saw that it was hot but didn't seem to have build up.

I took a look at the oil pan, however even though there is a visible color difference it didn't actually feel wet. I'm not sure about this one.

I also noticed two unsecured cables and took photos of those and the above mentioned, including error codes.

I can't find a strictly metric tool kit, but the set i listed includes:

17 × Metric Socket - 1/4" Drive
10 × Shallow 6 Point: 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13mm
7 × Deep 6 Point: 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13mm

20 × Metric Socket - 3/8" Drive
10 × Shallow 6 point: 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19mm
10 × Semi-Deep 6 Point: 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19mm

11 x Combination Open Wrench
Metric: 10, 12, 13, 14, 15, 17mm

1 x Spark Plug Socket - 3/8" Drive
I don't see a metric socket for the spark plug. If needed can order this separately.
What specifically am I missing, or can I order this?

Thank you,
Jonathan

[SteveSarre]

Hi Jonathan,

I'm not sure if its oil in the coolant, its hard to tell and its not very visible on the photo. It would appear there may be.
[As you say hard to tell - doesn't look major - investigate later]

There is definitely some build up underneath the oil cap. The car has only really had short runs, but when I took off the cap it was smoking a little white.
[under cap - build up looks normal. Sometimes if car has only been doing short runs, water condenses inside the engine and you get a mayonnaise-like deposit on the underside of the cap, and inside the valve cover - don't worry for now]

The transmission oil was also checked and saw that it was hot but didn't seem to have build up.
[OK - if the fluid is red that means it has been changed recently, If brown then it has not been changed. If black then it needs changing soon - but do that later].

I took a look at the oil pan, however even though there is a visible color difference it didn't actually feel wet. I'm not sure about this one.
[Don't worry about minor oil leaks at this stage]

I also noticed two unsecured cables and took photos of those and the above mentioned, including error codes.
[Unsecured cables look like clips to route the hand/emergency/parking brake cables - no need to fix those yet - should not affect operation of the brake]

Error codes.
[**These are very useful**. I cannot see if they are current or historic. If you click on the code line, can you then see a link to Details, which should tell you more? You could clear the codes and then rerun the engine and the scan, and see if they come back.
"Brake vacuum" refers to the vacuum assisted brake servo which sits on the firewall/bulkhead. The brake master cylinder sits in front of it. There is a 3/4 inch rubber hose that goes between the brake servo and the front left of the intake manifold (near the battery). Is that hose intact? Do the brakes seem to need a lot of effort to operate?
A vacuum leak would affect the running of the engine. If you disconnect the hose from the servo, there will be big leak. Does doing that affect the running? If you disconnect the hose from the intake manifold end and plug the manifold, does that improve the running?
"Throttle position" - again read the Details. The throttle position sensor sits on the front of the throttle housing, which is at the battery end of the intake manifold. A TPS sensor is not expensive - but maybe wait until you have checked the compression. But see below maybe you have an ETM not a TPS]


"1 x Spark Plug Socket - 3/8" Drive"
The Spark Plug Socket that you need is 16mm (or a 5/8 inch will work)

At some point you will need some 1/2 inch drive sockets and wrenches, but not yet.

Does you engine look like this?
https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/F...44S_engine.jpg

Does you have a cable operated throttle or electronic? (When you press the throttle pedal, does it pull on a cable which runs across the engine compartment and operates the throttle blade, or is there a throttle position sensor behind the pedal and an electrically operated throttle module at the battery end of the intake manifold)?

When you taken off the top plastic cover (held on with Torx screws) do you have 5 on-plug ignition coils, or are there spark plug leads which run back to a distributor on the battery end of the engine?

Electronic throttle module : ETM are a common point of failure. Quite expensive to replace and difficult to find good used. Come back to that later.

Again, I recommend measure the compression before you spend money (except for the tools).

If you go to skandix.de you can register, add your vehicle with its VIN and then browse relevant parts. Very useful source of information.

HTH
Steve