Magic bullet??

[flint]

Hi,
Had my manual 2002 S60 D5 for about a year and covered 20K miles so far
(currently 75K).
Just failed mot on lower front suspension arm bushes (replacing with powerflex this thursday at local garage). Also replacing upper engine mounts with powerflex as also shot. Will also get new drop links fitted to both sides at the front. Thinking of doing rear bushing next year.
Anyway, appart from these common problems which I'm hoping wont return when its 'Powerflexed' I have grown to love the car.
I posted yesterday looking for a good non franchised mechanic in Newcastle area (Many thanks to the member who gave me info on the garage in Sunderland) as I am going to stop using Volvo main dealers as they are too dear. I'm going to stop following the latest models and just rack the miles up on this one over at least the next five years. I couldnt justify spending 4 or 5 hundred quid on a service for a car that will be worth a couple of grand.

I do above average miles in a year (probably because I love to drive so much)
and I do quite a few short hops early in the morning so the motor temp never really gets into operating range. The cars running great and I want to keep this one as long as possible as its so good on fuel. I spotted this on an interesting website.

http://www.carbibles.com/engineoil_bible.html

Loads of info on various oil related products and how they work. I saw something called a 'pre/post oiler' offered from a company in the states on the site which looked like a great little unit for reducing engine wear on start up, and turbo wear on run down.

http://www.autoenginelube.com/

With postage the pre/post unit comes in at around 200 quid. It states you dont have to use multi grade oil as it lubricates the main bearings before start up so you dont need the multi grade properties. (ie thinnner cold, thicker when hot) It states you can then use a good single weight oil as single weight oil gives better lubrication after the trauma of start up.
I was wondering if anyone had seen or used these units before. The theory is sound and it might reduce the running costs over the years of going for more expensive top end synthetics. It might also do the engine/turbo life the power of good.
Any info appreciated.
Flint

[S60-MBS]

If you want to save money and look after your engine just stick to fully synthetic oil,some of this gimmicks are too good to be true,if they do actually work why dont manufacturers use them.

[flint]

In answer to your response about if it worked why wouldnt manufacturers use them? Probably the same reason why Volvo dont fit decent quality rubber to their steering and suspension components. Nice little earner!
I use Castrol Longtech at the moment but will be going over to fully synthetic 0W30 Castrol Edge as of this thursday. Its not B5 standard but if B4 is good enough for Merc, Audi and BMW its good enough for Volvo.
The point is that no matter how thin the oil when cold, on start up from cold the engines running dry until the pump supplies oil to the bearings. Maybe a few hundred revs on dry bearings. A few short trips a day and that adds up to a few thousand dry revs a day. Lots of wear. If that could be eliminated then I would be interested.

[S60-MBS]

Long Tech is fully synthetic or is that not the case anymore?

[DieselDoNicely]

Changing the top engine mount with a poly bush one may make the car feel more like a tractor, much more vibration is transfered to the cabin.

[BillB]

Originally Posted by flint

The point is that no matter how thin the oil when cold, on start up from cold the engines running dry until the pump supplies oil to the bearings. Maybe a few hundred revs on dry bearings. A few short trips a day and that adds up to a few thousand dry revs a day. Lots of wear. If that could be eliminated then I would be interested.

Using OEM oil filters helps as they contain a non-return valve which, it is claimed, makes more oil immediately available to the pump. BTW, I use Castrol Magnatec in my Tdi (Audi engine) but the common rail D5 may need something different. Regards.

[4 forty]

you may like to read the view of oil additives by an american chemist, interseting facts.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/images/lucas/lucas.htm

[flint]

Originally Posted by DieselDoNicely

Changing the top engine mount with a poly bush one may make the car feel more like a tractor, much more vibration is transfered to the cabin.

Heard about the vibration issues but it cant be any worse than the clunking issue I have at present! Thanks for the info though.
Did the Powerflex wishbone bushing have much of an effect on the V70 handling? Hoping it will improve things. What milage did your control arms go at?
The 850 with 400+k miles is very impressive. Is that on the same engine? Tell me more.

[Bernard333]

my 2003 v70 d5 front bushes went at about 110k miles , just had them replaced at 126k miles as it failed mot , used cheap QH aftermarket units , cant see much difference but seems a bit quieter from the front on rough surfaces , the old bushes were definitely knackered , have kept the complete old wishbones so I can have a go at fitting powerflex bushes , my top engine mount bush has also been knackered for a long time and will replace that soon . The oil question is interesting , I suppose the dryness of the main bearings depends if the car has been sitting for days or months between starts , I would think that on a daily start up then there will be at least a film of oil still on the bearings ? I have a spare sump and am working on fitting an engine pre heater , having looked at various american designs which are pads to stick to the engine from the outside , I dont like these as I want to use less electricity so am going to fit an electric immersion heater inside the sump and a timer so that the oil and crankshaft get warmed up before I start the engine , unfortunately there isnt much spare space inside the D5 sump to do this kind of thing ( lots of brass pipes/ steel plates and die cast webbing in the way ) but I am sure it can be done .

[flint]

Originally Posted by Bernard333

my 2003 v70 d5 front bushes went at about 110k miles , just had them replaced at 126k miles as it failed mot , used cheap QH aftermarket units , cant see much difference but seems a bit quieter from the front on rough surfaces , the old bushes were definitely knackered , have kept the complete old wishbones so I can have a go at fitting powerflex bushes , my top engine mount bush has also been knackered for a long time and will replace that soon . The oil question is interesting , I suppose the dryness of the main bearings depends if the car has been sitting for days or months between starts , I would think that on a daily start up then there will be at least a film of oil still on the bearings ? I have a spare sump and am working on fitting an engine pre heater , having looked at various american designs which are pads to stick to the engine from the outside , I dont like these as I want to use less electricity so am going to fit an electric immersion heater inside the sump and a timer so that the oil and crankshaft get warmed up before I start the engine , unfortunately there isnt much spare space inside the D5 sump to do this kind of thing ( lots of brass pipes/ steel plates and die cast webbing in the way ) but I am sure it can be done .

Just got my car back from the garage and its now all well again. Fitted the Powerflex top bush myself yesterday before the wishbone bushes were done and it was horrible. Tons of vibration. Ended up getting original part from Volvo and getting the garage to fit that when they did the wishbone bushes.
Spoke to the mechanic and he said the Powerflex bush was probably fine. He said the vibration was coming from one of the side washers shorting through the centre bolt and out to the brace?? Anyway, Powerflex bush and aluminium bush housing now going on ebay! 20 quid for a straight bolt on item. Bargain.
Must say the new wishbone bushes make the car feel a bit 'tighter', the new droplinks must also help that a bit. Anyone done the rear bushing? Whats likely to go next I wonder? Also just bought a PPC diagnostic system from Nordic in middlesex. Should be here tommorrow. This cost £66, for some reason it sells for 147 Euro on the BSR website????
Anyway the garage did the wishbone bushes, oil change(edge 0w30 D), air, fuel, oil filter, droplinks and top bush for 220 with me supplying stuff. Not bad. Volvo charge 175 for an oil change!! Cars running best its done while I've had it so quite pleased.
Got a 1000 mile seven days ahead of me starting at 0500 tomorrow. Feel much happier now things are fettled.
The sump heater sounds like a good addition. Do you use thicker oil from the
0w30? I take it you would plug this in at the mains in the garage? I've seen them on cars in Norway and Canada. They had the external connector on the grill which looked a bit ropey. I'm sure it could be mounted somewhere else.