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140/164 Series General Forum for the Volvo 140 and 164 cars |
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Hi, New Member 144 SViews : 1026 Replies : 6Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Sep 5th, 2007, 01:30 | #1 |
New Member
Last Online: Sep 28th, 2007 00:03
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Wirral
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Hi, New Member 144 S
Hi
I have just bought a 1970 Volvo 144 2.0 S manual. 1 Owner from new, needs some cosmetics but generally sound. There is a lot of play in the steering. Is there a rebuild kit for the steering box available? Also what is the little moveable needle below the speedo for? Are there any mods/adjustments that I should do? The car drives well but I will give it a full service. I'll upload some pics in the next few days Richard |
Sep 5th, 2007, 18:52 | #2 |
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Welcome to the world of classic Volvo`s.
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Sep 5th, 2007, 20:59 | #3 |
VOC Member
Last Online: Mar 24th, 2024 16:34
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Nowhere.
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Sep 5th, 2007, 21:55 | #4 |
VOC Member
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Richard, hello and welcome to the forum and 140s!
Please post some pictures of your S when you can. Before you assume a steering box rebuild is required, try adjusting the box (there is a adjusting screw, consult Haynes). Adjust until there is zero play, then back it off slightly. There is meant to be a little play, and if you have none it will be very stiff on lock and accelerate wear in the box. Pic of my 164E attached Regards John |
Sep 6th, 2007, 13:13 | #5 |
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Last Online: Aug 26th, 2020 14:12
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Lymm
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Hooray, Another 144 appears
I tell everyone the needle is a clapometer.
I'd drive it about for a month before doing anything to get a feel for what has to be done, then what needs to be done, then what you's like to do! Biggest differences on mine were the Simonz exhaust, the engine came to life after fitting that, and bushes, bushes, ball joints, steering bits. Basically the obvious bits that wear. Oh, don't forget brakes, after redoing mine it went from being good to ace. No point doing any of the above though if the engine is about to top itself, or the clutch is about to go. Stiffer shocks, I've got KYBs on mine because I'm poor, grown ups and rich folk go for Koni or Bilsteins. Enjoy it. Sam |
Sep 6th, 2007, 16:04 | #6 |
never knowingly slow
Last Online: Aug 8th, 2012 09:31
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: near Bath
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Welcome to the gathering!
What a great car. I'm always breaking mine but it's used pretty hard and usually copes really well. If it's sound enough, as Sam says do the suspension. Mine's dropped by an inch or so on uprated springs and runs bilsteins with a limited slip diff. A very different ride from the original softly/softly car is started as. Rust is an ever present threat epecially between the rear arches and watch the gearbox oil level, if the rear seal starts to weep, you'll kill it if not checked. I went the Simons exhaust route but later on cut it as it went over the axle and now it now goes dead straight to the rear rather than the two 90 deg bends it had before. Seemed to make no difference to the performance but much neater now. |
Sep 13th, 2007, 00:57 | #7 |
New Member
Last Online: Sep 28th, 2007 00:03
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Wirral
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Hi again
Thanks for the warm welcome, i've just come in from my first 'tinkering' with the car. I found a nice new K&N air filter from my 240Z, a pair of front spot lights and a nice 60's wooden gear nob. But most importantly i've adjusted the steering box as per John H's instructions. WOW!! It feels like a new car. Well made up. I really fancy some 240 GLT alloys for it now as i'm sure they will make the car feel a little more stable. Cheers guys (will post some pics soon) |
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