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700/900 Series General Forum for the Volvo 740, 760, 780, 940, 960 & S/V90 cars |
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Upgrades/Maintenance to do whilst engine & GB are out?Views : 351 Replies : 7Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Jul 28th, 2021, 17:24 | #1 |
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Upgrades/Maintenance to do whilst engine & GB are out?
Hi all,
After a bit of a wobble where I tried to get rid of the thing it looks like I'm back to trying to get my 940 turbo running again (thanks for the chat & info Luke!). I've decided to whip out the engine and gearbox and take stock, rebuilding everything stage-by-stage as I go. It probably won't work after either, but at least I'll know for certain what it ISN'T wrong with it Anyways, I was hoping to get some advice on what things I should consider upgrading/changing/checking whilst I've got unfettered access to the engine, gearbox and bay? Engine wise it's a head off, skim, clean, guides and hushers job. I'm thinking of aiming for 250 bhp but can feel the siren call of bigger turbos and 300 bhp already Gearbox it's a TTV flywheel and 850R clutch in all likelihood. Any advice is, as ever, gratefully received
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Jul 28th, 2021, 17:35 | #2 |
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Obvious things really. All front and rear seals,timing belt and posssibly waterpump along with all gaskets inc sump. Also check oil cooler hoses ( not that its that much easier with engine out )as they are prone to failure
Use Volvo seals and oil hoses so you dont have to do it all again in two years
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Jul 28th, 2021, 17:46 | #3 |
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He's very persuasive, isn't he?
I'm doing similar with mine as a result. Pressure is off because I've got alternative transport. To the mechanical stuff I'd add checking heater matrix hoses (or aircon if you have that luxury)
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Jul 28th, 2021, 18:39 | #4 |
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Clean and a paint really. I wouldn't even bother with guides unless you find any play which is rare. Grind the valves in and decarbonise the chambers. Clean the sump out.
If you have the engine on a proper stand, maybe derust and clean the cooling system insides. Clean out or upgrade the PVC if you are going for more boost. Front and rear cranks seals are usually good to replace. |
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Jul 28th, 2021, 21:11 | #5 |
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There's a steering column UJ near the turbo, while the engine is out give this a good soaking in oil as the heat from the turbo tends to dry it out causing it to go stiff. Also worth checking the subframes for corrosion and treating, battery tray and bodywork similar on the opposite side, condition of the radiator, steering rack bellows and anything else you find that you wouldn't normally see.
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Jul 28th, 2021, 21:30 | #6 |
Go redblock or go home
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Well I do try
I'd change every single oil seal and gasket, clean the sludge out of the sump like Tony suggested and the head as he has suggested. Only use genuine Volvo for everything, only gasket they don't do is the exhaust manifold so you will have to get PPS off of eBay or parts for Volvo. Clean the throttle body thoroughly when changing the gasket and also as yours doesn't run properly check the base idle setting. I would also clean the header tank, a trick Dave taught me was denture tablets! Put the header tank in a bucket and cover with water and 6 tablets and leave it for a few days. It will look like almost new when it comes out again. Inspect the condition of all the coolant hoses while there and change the alternator mounting bushes if they have squashed down. |
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Jul 28th, 2021, 22:41 | #7 |
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Thanks for the advice guys, now I can start throwing together a parts list and planning out how I'm going to sort this lot out
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Jul 29th, 2021, 07:03 | #8 |
Go redblock or go home
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Oh and change the gearbox oil, it takes 1.75 litres, oil is still available from the dealers.
And you could also change at least the o-ring in the front of the gearbox inside the bell housing and the two oil seals if you're feeling a bit more adventurous. |
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