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340 1.4 rough ans slow idling

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Old May 26th, 2021, 14:57   #1
Two340'sman
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Default 340 1.4 rough ans slow idling

Hi there, I'd be grateful for some advice.

My 340GL manual has run well for years.

A few days ago I filled up at the local Asda Petrol Station, after a short distance the car was tending to stall and tickover slower than usual and rough, something like 200 RPM.

The next morning I started the car and again had the same problem I disconnected the fuel feed to the carb and pumped out about 2 litres of fuel. Reconnected the feed and car ran OK. The next day I did a round trip of about 10 Miles and the car was fine. However, today the car is playing up with the same erratic and slow idle.

I did contact Asda about the possibility of contaminated fuel, they responded on the day that I filled up, several hundred cars filled from the same tank and no reported problems other than mine.

I have checked distributor, rotor arm, air filter and for air leaks around carb. The ignition leads are fairly new.

Of course, MOT is due soon, so I need to resolve this. Many thanks in advance.
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Old May 26th, 2021, 15:35   #2
Laird Scooby
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Originally Posted by Two340'sman View Post
Hi there, I'd be grateful for some advice.

My 340GL manual has run well for years.

A few days ago I filled up at the local Asda Petrol Station, after a short distance the car was tending to stall and tickover slower than usual and rough, something like 200 RPM.

The next morning I started the car and again had the same problem I disconnected the fuel feed to the carb and pumped out about 2 litres of fuel. Reconnected the feed and car ran OK. The next day I did a round trip of about 10 Miles and the car was fine. However, today the car is playing up with the same erratic and slow idle.

I did contact Asda about the possibility of contaminated fuel, they responded on the day that I filled up, several hundred cars filled from the same tank and no reported problems other than mine.

I have checked distributor, rotor arm, air filter and for air leaks around carb. The ignition leads are fairly new.

Of course, MOT is due soon, so I need to resolve this. Many thanks in advance.
Would i be right in saying it's also harder to start cold and tempremental until it's warmed up and even then not as it should be?

If so, it sounds as if you have a build-up of condensation in the tank, worth trying as a "first port of call". Wait until the fuel level is down to ~1/4 tank (about 3 gallons left) then add 2L of meths to the tank :

https://www.toolstation.com/methylated-spirit/p99550

Cheapest way of buying it at that volume as far as i know. This will emulsify with the water and allow it to be burned off normally. If it doesn't work, it's cheap enough to know you've tried a quick, cheap and easy fix that has got rid of the condensation. Note that the best ratio is 1:10 so more than 3-4 gallons of petrol will dilute it too much to have any real effect.
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Old May 26th, 2021, 15:45   #3
Two340'sman
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Would i be right in saying it's also harder to start cold and tempremental until it's warmed up and even then not as it should be?

If so, it sounds as if you have a build-up of condensation in the tank, worth trying as a "first port of call". Wait until the fuel level is down to ~1/4 tank (about 3 gallons left) then add 2L of meths to the tank :

https://www.toolstation.com/methylated-spirit/p99550

Cheapest way of buying it at that volume as far as i know. This will emulsify with the water and allow it to be burned off normally. If it doesn't work, it's cheap enough to know you've tried a quick, cheap and easy fix that has got rid of the condensation. Note that the best ratio is 1:10 so more than 3-4 gallons of petrol will dilute it too much to have any real effect.
Hi, thanks for the useful reply.
I going near Toolstation today, I'll get some meths. Yes, more temperamental when cold, but still bad tickover when hot. Of course, Ive got over half a tank of petrol.
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Old May 26th, 2021, 15:51   #4
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Apologies for the typo in the title. Must concentrate!

Testing the car yesterday, Ive got good brakes on the 340, was going to go through the second set of traffic lights, decided to stop. Range Rover to the left of me decided to go through, he got flashed.

My £6 dashcam filmed this.

https://youtu.be/SQHPWMLzR_w
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Old May 26th, 2021, 18:19   #5
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Just got back from Toolsation to get methylated spirits, car still playing up, bit like kangaroo petrol. Relatively new thing, engine ran on a bit after turning ignition off. Does not usually do that.
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Old May 26th, 2021, 20:52   #6
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Just got back from Toolsation to get methylated spirits, car still playing up, bit like kangaroo petrol. Relatively new thing, engine ran on a bit after turning ignition off. Does not usually do that.
You've still got over half a tank of petrol so you haven't put the meths in yet so if it is condensation it will be.
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Old May 27th, 2021, 00:03   #7
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Originally Posted by Two340'sman View Post
Hi there, I'd be grateful for some advice.

My 340GL manual has run well for years.

A few days ago I filled up at the local Asda Petrol Station, after a short distance the car was tending to stall and tickover slower than usual and rough, something like 200 RPM.

The next morning I started the car and again had the same problem I disconnected the fuel feed to the carb and pumped out about 2 litres of fuel. Reconnected the feed and car ran OK. The next day I did a round trip of about 10 Miles and the car was fine. However, today the car is playing up with the same erratic and slow idle.

I did contact Asda about the possibility of contaminated fuel, they responded on the day that I filled up, several hundred cars filled from the same tank and no reported problems other than mine.

I have checked distributor, rotor arm, air filter and for air leaks around carb. The ignition leads are fairly new.

Of course, MOT is due soon, so I need to resolve this. Many thanks in advance.
Take out the electric idle solenoid from the carburettor , pull the jet off the end and look carefully for dirt , I assume it goes ok once you get going and the trouble is only when idling?
There should be an in-line filter in the hose between the pump and carburettor , it was a service item back then .. be very careful when tightening the solenoid , not very tight ...


With the ignition on take the wire off the above solenoid and touch it back on and off a few times , there should be a defined click each time it opens and closes .
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Old May 27th, 2021, 00:20   #8
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Take out the electric idle solenoid from the carburettor , pull the jet off the end and look carefully for dirt , I assume it goes ok once you get going and the trouble is only when idling?
There should be an in-line filter in the hose between the pump and carburettor , it was a service item back then .. be very careful when tightening the solenoid , not very tight ...


With the ignition on take the wire off the above solenoid and touch it back on and off a few times , there should be a defined click each time it opens and closes .
Thank you, I'll have to look at the manual to see which this is. I think there is only one electrical wire to the carb, and I thought that was an anti run on thing. The main trouble is idling, but the car is a bit hesitant to drive above idle.

Yes, there is an inline filter, I had though of replacing it. Looks clean, but has been there many years. I'll look for one on ebay.
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Old May 27th, 2021, 00:27   #9
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Thank you, I'll have to look at the manual to see which this is. I think there is only one electrical wire to the carb, and I thought that was an anti run on thing. The main trouble is idling, but the car is a bit hesitant to drive above idle.

Yes, there is an inline filter, I had though of replacing it. Looks clean, but has been there many years. I'll look for one on ebay.
Its official name is an anti-dieseling valve, also called anti-run-on solenoid, idle valve, idle solenoid and a few others. Usually if it's playing up it will stop it idling completely and also prevent starting, not let it start and idle roughly. Usually they're one of those things that either work or not, no half measures.

Usually if the valve plays up, driving above idle is ok but it won't idle and won't start without throttle.
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Old May 27th, 2021, 00:35   #10
Two340'sman
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Originally Posted by Laird Scooby View Post
Its official name is an anti-dieseling valve, also called anti-run-on solenoid, idle valve, idle solenoid and a few others. Usually if it's playing up it will stop it idling completely and also prevent starting, not let it start and idle roughly. Usually they're one of those things that either work or not, no half measures.

Usually if the valve plays up, driving above idle is ok but it won't idle and won't start without throttle.
Thank you, car starts from cold (with choke of course, and that gives fast idle). I do have somewhere one of these valves with the tip cut off. I believe that this was a mod done when the valve fails.
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