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S80 '06-'16 / V70 & XC70 '07-'16 General Forum for the P3-platform S80 and 70-series models |
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Engine Temp High reduce speedViews : 1998 Replies : 15Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Jul 31st, 2021, 09:10 | #11 | |
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Last Online: Sep 11th, 2023 16:06
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Jul 31st, 2021, 10:41 | #12 |
The Brit Brick
Last Online: Aug 13th, 2023 10:39
Join Date: Jul 2021
Location: Warwickshire
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Water pump could be U/S. A rare failure on these, but the symptoms fit.
Better to do this systematically than justnusing the scattergun approach - Whip the sensors out and test them, reverse flush the system, check the rad for damage and degradation. All those are free checks, and once eliminated only the pump remains.
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2005 C70 2.4T Collection convertible. 40,000 mile sunny day toy. Last edited by Familyman 90; Jul 31st, 2021 at 10:44. |
Jul 31st, 2021, 11:15 | #13 |
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Last Online: Sep 11th, 2023 16:06
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The sensor has been changed for a new Volvo part. My understanding with the water pump is efficiently wise they either work or leak. I am coming to the conclusion that radiator degradation is probably going to be the culprit.
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Feb 8th, 2024, 23:52 | #14 |
XCfan
Last Online: Feb 9th, 2024 00:20
Join Date: Feb 2024
Location: Hobart
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2010XC70 overheating issues
I have exactly the same problem with our 2010XC70D5: Can drive around all day at low speed and car will not bring up message. As soon as you go on the highway or up a steep hill it will bring up the "yellow warning message" and eventually the Red one telling you to stop. Stop the car and the fans run on for 3 or 4 min and she cools down a bit and you can continue (slowly).
There is no evidence of a blown head gasket...no coolant in the oil, no oil or exhaust gasses in the cooling system, no bubbling at any time. Work done so far: Coolant system flush including the cabin heater core. Notably prior to the flush, the cabin heater would not produce heat but now is, indicating that there was a blockage. Also there was lots of "gunk" came out of the cooling system. New water pump and belts. New thermostat. New radiator. New engine coolant temperature sensor. Coolant system flush (again). Unfortunately the problem continues to be an issue. Tearing my hair out! I am wondering if anyone knows of a safe solution that may break down any further contaminants that are likely still within the cooling system galleries and that may be preventing the transfer of heat to the coolant. |
Feb 9th, 2024, 15:10 | #15 |
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Last Online: Mar 21st, 2024 15:58
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Well, my question to you is, is it an automatic? If it is I can add another source for the overheating. Some of these automatics use just the internal built-in cooler of the radiator, if so, the radiator is trying to cool both the engine and gearbox. This normally would not be a problem, but if the torque converter is slipping it CAN raise the temps(such as to 150) and make the engine start overheating.
If it isn't, it is still likely pointing to a head gasket. Last edited by mcfe; Feb 9th, 2024 at 15:13. |
Feb 10th, 2024, 14:44 | #16 |
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Last Online: Feb 27th, 2024 19:36
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Location: Renfrewshire
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Sounds like the water pump vanes are worn away with reduced amount of water circulating the engine. If you do need to dump heat out of the engine in a hurry to save your head gasket, turn the cabin fan, the heating up to full and the air con on to get the radiator fan to rotate.
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