1800: 1972 pv1800es

[Othen]

Originally Posted by c1800

“ I did notice the oil level was a bit high when I collected the car, and paid not much notice to it. I'll check that (suck a little bit out if necessary)”

Or just change the oil, and filter, then you know what you have.

Yes, I'd suggested that would be a good approach to the owner...

[Burdekin]

I’d stick it through a MOT at a mechanic who knows classics and get a list of the major issues that need resolving and to check it is safe.

[Othen]

Originally Posted by Burdekin

I’d stick it through a MOT at a mechanic who knows classics and get a list of the major issues that need resolving and to check it is safe.

... we'll have to agree to disagree about that one :-)

[Burdekin]

Originally Posted by Othen

... we'll have to agree to disagree about that one :-)

Why's that? It's not expensive, would be inspected by a competent person and the owner will know if there are any significant issues? If it was your car okay that's your decision but it's the owners safety you're dealing with.

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by Burdekin

Why's that? It's not expensive, would be inspected by a competent person and the owner will know if there are any significant issues? If it was your car okay that's your decision but it's the owners safety you're dealing with.

I understand the sentiments but it's still no guarantee. Have a look at this thread then let me know either on this thread or that one and i'll explain the reason for that thread.

https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=316951

Sorry Alan, i'm not trying to derail your thread but making the point that not all MoT testers are as safe as we'd hope! All will become clear as mud soon and the relevance will be even clearer!

[Othen]

A short update if I may. I had a good look under the front of the car at the weekend. The first thing to report is that the oil leak(s) may be much less serious than I suspected at first:



... actually it was pretty clean underneath with just one or two drops appearing after a drive. There are a number of possibilities, one is that the additive I put in the oil has stemmed the flow, another is that just running up the engine has done the trick - either way the gaskets and seals are doing their job much better now. There is still a little oil coming from the top of the engine - possibly running down the back of the block and causing a few drops at the lowest point. Having changed the rocker cover gasket I'm fairly confident of that is working properly. I dusted the engine with talc before running it up and it looks like the oil filler cap seal may be leaking:



... I took this apart and cleaned it, but noticed the rubber sealing ring was quite hard. This is a cheap and easy part to change, so I'll do that first. It is good news that the oil leak is diminished and will be even better if a £2 rubber ring solves the problem :-)

I was pleased to see te front suspension and brakes (like the back) are all new:



... and all seem to work well.

I took the speedometer cable off at the gearbox end and couldn't find anything wrong (although I have not had time to investigate the instrument end yet), so I took this right angle drive off:



... cleaned it up and gave it a little ATF as lubrication. I couldn't particularly see anything wrong (although I'm not sure what I'm looking for apart from an obvious breakage). It is re-assembled but the speedometer still doesn't work - that is one for another day.

Next I had a look at the electrical connection for the fuel gauge - cleaned up the contacts - but it still only goes up to 1/4 full (but the needle does move under its own power, so the circuit is complete).



The most likely culprit is the float mechanism being stuck - another one for a day when I have time to do the job safely.

I checked all the fuses - all okay - and after a spray with some contact cleaner and a scrape with some Emery paper the cigar lighter came to life:



... that is good news as 'Janet' can now have in car entertainment, SATNAV and communications from her cell phone to a Bluetooth speaker and so avoid having to spoil that lovely dash with a radio. Some of the dashboard lights have also started working - I can claim no credit apart from winding the 'Panel Lights' rheostat up and down a few times. I think a bit of use may well solve that problem.

This is the fixed passenger door winder - many thanks for the omega clip Doug, it worked a treat:



... 'Janet' will source one for the driver's side and we'll get that sorted soon. The door handles are both damaged at the spindle - the three legged gear has broken completely on the passenger side and partially on the driver's side. The issue needs a solution fairly quickly for safety.

That will be the last report for about a week as I'll be busy on other issues for a while ('Janet' has the car back). Week after next I'll see if I can get the exhaust apart to re-align it properly, I'll also change the oil and filter - I've suggested to 'Janet' that she changes to 20W50 (I use Comma 20W50 in the RB and have found it to be very good indeed). The thicker oil may help with the leaks issues. The door handles and the speedometer need fairly urgent attention to make the car safe.

On the whole the P1800ES is pretty sound - all the hard (and expensive) jobs have been done by the PO and some issues seem to be fixing themselves with little human interaction apart from a bit of use. I'm impressed with the car - it will be perfect for 'Janet' once the short list of issues has been addressed.

Watch this space :-)

Alan

[Othen]

Originally Posted by Burdekin

Why's that? It's not expensive, would be inspected by a competent person and the owner will know if there are any significant issues? If it was your car okay that's your decision but it's the owners safety you're dealing with.

Why? Because I think I'm a pretty competent person, so I can't really recommend to the owner that she wastes £50 on a test that will say what I've told her already.

[Burdekin]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

I understand the sentiments but it's still no guarantee. Have a look at this thread then let me know either on this thread or that one and i'll explain the reason for that thread.

https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=316951

Sorry Alan, i'm not trying to derail your thread but making the point that not all MoT testers are as safe as we'd hope! All will become clear as mud soon and the relevance will be even clearer!

That's exactly why you want to have it examined by a reputable MOT tester. The car is about 50 years old, had little value for a long time and chances are may not have always been repaired to a good standard. A reputable MOT tester who knows classic cars will highlight that type of thing and you want to know about that sort of thing. Better to be safe than sorry.

[Othen]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

I understand the sentiments but it's still no guarantee. Have a look at this thread then let me know either on this thread or that one and i'll explain the reason for that thread.

https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=316951

Sorry Alan, i'm not trying to derail your thread but making the point that not all MoT testers are as safe as we'd hope! All will become clear as mud soon and the relevance will be even clearer!

I think I recall that link to a thread from previously Dave (probably via yourself). I would have no particular faith in a MoT tester telling me anything I don't know already: the metalwork has all been some to a really high standard (far better than I could have done), the brakes and suspension are all new, the steering works fine, the electrics need some attention, the headlamps are probably pointing all over the place after I took everything apart to fix the missing wiring, the speedometer doesn't work and the door handles don't work properly.

Would the car pass a MoT at the mo? Of course not because of the speedometer, possibly the lights alignment and the door handles. We know what is wrong with the car - it is niff naff and trivia compared to the heavy shifting that the PO has already done.

As I said above, there would be no point wasting £50 to find out what I already know.

Alan

[Laird Scooby]

Nice to see some progress on the 1800 Alan and also to hear you've suggested 20W50 mineral oil for the next oil change. I might have been tempted to suggest 20W40 but given the apparently leaky nature of the engine, the 20W50 would probably be the better choice!

The dead panel lights that haven't been resurrected by exercising the panel dimmer probably need new bulbs........