B20 Modifications

[Burdekin]

I have the heavier duty ones from KG in my engine as I had them from another project. I'd check but I'd say it's not a bad idea to put them in if they aren't that much more expensive as they are quite a bit more stiffer than the originals and you will need new ones anyhow. But money is definitely best spent on head work but you could save some cash staying with the SUs as they are a nice simple carb, easy to recondition and when set-up with the correct needles will be spot on for your needs. The webers will sound good though but for your HP if it were me I'd stick with the SUs. It's an expensive business building a higher HP B20 with the parts, machining and if you pay someone to do your headwork so my advice would be not to rush into anything and treat the engine holistically. Get someone who knows the B20 to either do your head or guide you with what is needed then you can match everything to it; cam, carbs, intake manifold size matched to head etc.

Another good guy to chat to is Canuck on turbo bricks, he has a nice 160hp at the wheels B20 and his quality of work is top notch. I've also got some good advice from Phil Singher, Steve Berry in the US and 940turbo on here is by far the most experienced guy on this forum. I bought my stuff from KG Trimning and KG is great to talk to and obviously been doing this stuff for years and another guy Fredrik works for KG and is very helpful as well. Don't be afraid to pick up the phone and call the Swedish guys, the are really nice helpful guys and speak much better English then my Swedish.

[jdean299]

Maybe we will go for the hd lifters and rods then. Our engine came off of ebay for £150 with no carbs or manifolds. We were told it was just removed and never left out in the rain but when we got it home from England (which took a few quid) and stripped it, it was full of water and the bores were pitted. The rest of the engine was like new with barely any wear. So we had to get a rebore, a set of oversize pistons and rings which has made the whole thing rather expensive.
Yes Canuck from Turbobricks was very helpful to us in the past when we needed info on maximum wheel widths and a few engine related things. He's a top guy and very knowledgeable.

Do you know of any new or used Torq Thrusts about by any chance? North Hants tyres seem to be sold out

[Burdekin]

My mate has a set of TT2s but I think he still plans on using them but will check. I do like the look if them on my estate.

[222s]

Originally Posted by jdean299

info on maximum wheel widths

This may also be interesting reading on that topic:

http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showpo...60&postcount=3

[jdean299]

@mitch1971
Received a pm from your friend earlier. Your Amazon looks class but we would rather have something smaller like 15's. Is there any problems with 7's on the front?

@222s
Good info there man, thanks

[Burdekin]

I haven't had any issues with my wheels, all good.

[tdz840]

[QUOTE=jdean299;1161853

@jimbo1593
I spoke to Rob at Amazoncars a few weeks back and he made out that 45's were overkill unless you were going over 200HP. Although, everybody on the Volvo forums seem to use 45's and they seem easier come by.
[/QUOTE]
Im surprised as the Volvo R Sport Solex ADDHE45 kit which was recommended for varying states of tune from approx 140-175hp.

It all depends on the chokes though and 36mm chokes should be OK for the B20 engine.

However Rob does have a lot of experience but may be thinking of larger chokes


The alloy gears can be bought from Rock Auto for approx £105 delivered. However, be careful the set are correctly matched.
If you want to know why look at my previous posts
Russ

[tdz840]

Originally Posted by jorzez

here is dyno test, disappointing comparing to the description made by previous owner -below (couldn't verify)
170 hp /? Nm
engine, gearbox and exhaust system
B20 built by Timo
Ported and flat top
Uppstrokad
KG-cam
Dual Weber 45
fuel pressure regulator
Extraktorgrenrör
Lightened flywheel
Gearbox M41
2 "original sports system

170hp? 1KM =approx 1Hp so 124.4Hp or have I missed something?
Torque is coming in at approx 115lbft so all pretty average for what looks some failry serious parts.
Mind you my maths isnt upo to much!
Russ

[Derek UK]

Way back, the DCOE Weber listing for a B18 was a pair of 42's. Very rare and the spec can be covered by 45's. Would mean that 40's would be too small for a hot B20 but OK on a 1.6l engine. The really hot Swede engines tend to use 48s or 50's but they are mega bucks. With the right internals you can get 150-160 with either SU's or Webers. SU's will be right at their limits and need lots of help from the cam and porting. Webers will cope with further tuning. At the 150bhp point you pay for the nice Weber noise with poorer mpg than the SU's assuming that the engines are the same and properly tuned. Engines that Dyno out at 150 can perform very differently on the road or track. The torque usually ends up doing the talking.
You've likely read this
http://www.vclassics.com/mppe1.html
That engine was for sale recently.

[classicswede]

Or you could go the more modern carb option with bike carbs.

Then there is the option of going for a EFI setup if you so wished. I will be fitting MS to my 145 later this year.