'00 C70 ABS Pump motor gone - options?

[plinth]

Hi, I've had the ABS light illuminated on my dash since I bought my '00 W-reg C70. I've had it diagnosed at a garage and have been told there's a fault with the ABS pump motor.

I've read about some people fixing ABS dash light issues by doing some soldering. I'm happy to do this sort of work on my own, but haven't been able to discern whether a pump motor would be solved in this way. Do I need to search for a new pump motor or should I start warming up my soldering iron?

Cheers

[deathrider311271]

Originally Posted by plinth

Hi, I've had the ABS light illuminated on my dash since I bought my '00 W-reg C70. I've had it diagnosed at a garage and have been told there's a fault with the ABS pump motor.

I've read about some people fixing ABS dash light issues by doing some soldering. I'm happy to do this sort of work on my own, but haven't been able to discern whether a pump motor would be solved in this way. Do I need to search for a new pump motor or should I start warming up my soldering iron?

Cheers

what are the symptoms you are getting? if its the ABS working when stearing or applying the brakes your garage is trying to get one over on you mate.

Simple resolder and possibly new/ known good second hand abs sensors should sort this out

[plinth]

Originally Posted by deathrider311271

what are the symptoms you are getting?

Thanks for the reply - the symptoms are simply that the ABS light is permanently on, the brakes themselves seem to be fine. I'll look further into the soldering issue and maybe get a second opinion!

[TurboZutek]

A few things can go wrong with the 'motor', I'll list them in order of likelihood:

1. Dry joints on the controller PCB. If there's a dry joint on the motor connections on that board, the PCB cannot run the motor and flags a 'dead motor' code, which is a red herring: the motor is fine and dandy, it's the soldering on the board which is at fault.

Bottom line is that when the PCB has dry joints, you can't trust any of the diagnostic codes it produces and it sounds like your garage has simply read the codes and told you the first one that's came up.

2. Sometimes the insulation on the cable to the motor unit breaks down and makes for a bad connection / looses connection totally. This is easy to check, just eyeball the ABS motor and examine the wiring loom coming out of it. It's also possible to repair this loom and it's the work of a half hour for an auto-electrician.

3. The ABS fuse is blown or is making a dodgy connection. Seems simple, but it will generate exactly the fault you have!

4. Faulty ABS system relay that goes high resistance when drawing power. The pump comes on, draws too much current, the voltage drops and the system reports a motor fault, even though there really isn't one. Might be a job for an auto-sparky that one.

Best of luck!

Chris...