1800: 1972 pv1800es

[powen1]

[QUOTE=powen1;2737031]Agree with derek,

When I looked at mine middle silencer is laying flat not twisted - I'm sure if you straighten that part the back will rise a bit near panhard Rod - I do have pics but couldn't attach to this reply sorry. sent email if you need them ?headlamp, check earth, speedo I took out the 90. degree bit and connected direct not sure of correct but works a treat :-)


Try these !

[cassell]

Hi,

I'm pleased your journey home went well. Just to add a couple of comments to the responses already given to your questions which may be of interest:

Exhaust system: I've owned two 1800ES cars since 1987 and replaced the exhaust systems on both, on my first car I fitted a 'factor' mild steel system which was a terrible fit and was a real pain to stop it hitting the underbody components with subsequent rattling.

My second (and current) ES had a fairly new mild steel system in place when I bought it in 1999, again a terrible fit and I was never happy with it. At that time a company called Sterling Exhausts advertised in the Volvo Owners Club magazine with advantageous prices to members for full stainless steel systems. I took the plunge, paid something like £275 for one, it fitted perfectly, came with all clamps and brackets/hangers and is still in place over 20 years later. Never needed to re-align or adjust it and the shine is still there!

Sadly, Sterling are no more, but if you are going to ever replace the existing exhaust system for something better, stainless systems are out there and well worth the expense.

Headlamps: If the car has it's original headlamps they will be Bosch H4 with halogen bulbs, not sealed beam units, H4 bulbs are readily available. You mention that you have neither dipped or main beam working, I suppose it is possible that all four filaments have failed but unlikely. The headlamp relay on the nearside inner wing may be at fault (mine once was) even though it's 'clicking'. The original relay is no longer available but Brookhouse can supply an equivalent relay which has a couple of additional terminals which you just ignore (I recall they are for DRL's on the Volvo 240 model), the remaining terminals have identification letters which match the original ones. From memory my replacement was around £30 from Simon at Brookhouse.

Others have answered your other fault queries, and yes, I also had a dodgy fuel gauge which was rectified by fitting a new sender unit in the top of the tank (easy to get at), again available from Brookhouse but as a suggestion, fit two gaskets together between the tank and the sender as for some reason fitting just one cork gasket gave me annoying petrol fumes in the car so I made an additional one out of rubber, problem solved!

[142 Guy]

With respect to the headlights, you are correct that the OEM headlight wiring is not fused. Volvo relies on a small melt down to eliminate the short circuit if a problem occurs in the headlight wiring. However, on a '73 ES the power supply for the headlights does originate from the unfused side of fuse #8 so its good to make sure that connection at the fuse panel is clean and tight. Personally, I prefer to have my headlights fused with separate high and low beam fuses.

A caution about LED bulbs in E code in reflectors meant for H4 bulbs. The H4 halogen bulb has a filament which is a linear light source. The lens and shape of the reflector are designed to work with this linear light source to create that characteristic light pattern associated with matched lens / reflector / H4 Halogen bulb systems. Individual LEDS are more of a point source that emit light in all directions above the plane of the emitting surface. Some H4 replacement LEDs are now better at approximating the linear filament by using multiple small LEDs in a line. Some H4 replacement LEDs are not so good at this. Those LEDs can be really bright; but, the light pattern that the lens throws may not end up where yo want it - including irritating on-coming drivers at night. Be careful in your selection if you want to use H4 LED replacements.

[Othen]

Originally Posted by Derek UK

It's common to rotate the silencer box you show, to get everything to clear but that may be too far, especially if the final supports have been pulled up too far. Loosen all of the clamps and twist them around a bit. The whole system should "hang" and not be tight anywhere. Generic rubber rings can be too small and pull everything out of position.

https://www.classicvolvoparts.co.uk/

[QUOTE=powen1;2737033]

Originally Posted by powen1

Agree with derek,

When I looked at mine middle silencer is laying flat not twisted - I'm sure if you straighten that part the back will rise a bit near panhard Rod - I do have pics but couldn't attach to this reply sorry. sent email if you need them ?headlamp, check earth, speedo I took out the 90. degree bit and connected direct not sure of correct but works a treat :-)


Try these !

Originally Posted by cassell

Hi,

I'm pleased your journey home went well. Just to add a couple of comments to the responses already given to your questions which may be of interest:

Exhaust system: I've owned two 1800ES cars since 1987 and replaced the exhaust systems on both, on my first car I fitted a 'factor' mild steel system which was a terrible fit and was a real pain to stop it hitting the underbody components with subsequent rattling.

My second (and current) ES had a fairly new mild steel system in place when I bought it in 1999, again a terrible fit and I was never happy with it. At that time a company called Sterling Exhausts advertised in the Volvo Owners Club magazine with advantageous prices to members for full stainless steel systems. I took the plunge, paid something like £275 for one, it fitted perfectly, came with all clamps and brackets/hangers and is still in place over 20 years later. Never needed to re-align or adjust it and the shine is still there!

Sadly, Sterling are no more, but if you are going to ever replace the existing exhaust system for something better, stainless systems are out there and well worth the expense.

Headlamps: If the car has it's original headlamps they will be Bosch H4 with halogen bulbs, not sealed beam units, H4 bulbs are readily available. You mention that you have neither dipped or main beam working, I suppose it is possible that all four filaments have failed but unlikely. The headlamp relay on the nearside inner wing may be at fault (mine once was) even though it's 'clicking'. The original relay is no longer available but Brookhouse can supply an equivalent relay which has a couple of additional terminals which you just ignore (I recall they are for DRL's on the Volvo 240 model), the remaining terminals have identification letters which match the original ones. From memory my replacement was around £30 from Simon at Brookhouse.

Others have answered your other fault queries, and yes, I also had a dodgy fuel gauge which was rectified by fitting a new sender unit in the top of the tank (easy to get at), again available from Brookhouse but as a suggestion, fit two gaskets together between the tank and the sender as for some reason fitting just one cork gasket gave me annoying petrol fumes in the car so I made an additional one out of rubber, problem solved!

Many thanks chaps - your help and advice is much appreciated. I had a whole morning on car today and got a few jobs completed, but in the process discovered lots more :-)

1. The headlamps: I started checking at the switch (no problem and easy to get out), continued to the relay (again, all seemed fine) and then checked power to the headlamps (all 12v)... finally (you guessed it), the only thing left was the earth returns. Neither had continuity, as you may see with this one the wire just wasn't connected to the earthing point:



... I don't know why, it would have taken moments. The driver's side was much worse, someone had cut the wire and it wasn't worth trying to save it.

Whilst someone had made a good job of the metalwork and paint renovation, they know nothing whatsoever about auto electrics:



... the connections onto the H4 bulb were these domestic type. I have no idea why the PO would have spent so much on metalwork and paint but scrimped for a few pennies on the electrics - this one wasn't even connected with the correct pinout. I dislike having to bodge things myself - but I didn't have any H4 sockets to hand and so had to use the same domestic connectors to prove the system working. I've ordered a couple of replacement H4 connectors from that nice Mr Bazos and will get them soldered in properly when they arrive.

I'm pleased to say that earth returns have been provided both sides and now the headlamps for the first time in many years:



2. Exhaust: Thank you for all your comments, I think I have worked out the problem. For some reason the middle section has been fitted at an angle, as you may see:



... that throws everything out of line and height so when it gets to the panhard rod bracket there is contact with the body. I'm going to try to pull the middle and end sections off and re-fit them properly, so I've ordered a couple of spare clamps because I'm almost certain to have to cut at least one off. I have no idea why the exhaust wasn't fitted properly - if I can't straighten it out there may be a need for a new one.

3. Oil leak: I changed the rocket box cork gasket and was fairly confident I'd fixed the leak. All seemed well as I let the car idle for 10 minutes. This afternoon the car's owner came round to try the car and after a 20 minute drive it was clear the oil leak has returned with a vengeance. No oil coming from the top of the engine - so it must be from the bottom. I'm pretty sure the leak is at the crank rear seal, which is a pity - and probably due to years of standing unused. I found a bottle of this stuff in my garage (I think I bought it to use in a Mazda MX5 years ago but didn't use it):



... this is worth a go - it may fix or ameliorate the leak. If not my friend will have the choice of either living with the leak (not really acceptable these days) or fixing the seal (that probably means me fixing the seal). Ah well, just when all was going so well. Dropping the manual gearbox off doesn't look like a very hard job, and I suppose it would make sense to change the clutch at the same time (not that there is anything wrong with it).

4. Speedometer drive - it was easy enough to undo the drive at the overdrive end. The cable isn't seized, but I couldn't tell whether it may have broken - perhaps close to the instrument end. More investigation required.

As always happens with older cars I ended up fixing a myriad of other things whilst gaining access to these jobs; running historic cars is just such fun :-)

More to follow...

[packers1712]

I have some of the winder handle clips however I have just sanity checked the Brookhouse website and the ones I have are for an Amazon and aren’t the same part number as the P1800 ones which amazes me!
I work in Wellingborough so I could bring some over one evening after work and see if they fit if you want? Just let me know.

Doug

[Othen]

Originally Posted by mike gilbert

I've recently a similar experience after driving home a new purchase 1800S that had not been properly used for some years. The speedo didn't work - cable just needed taking out and lubricating. I made that a first job because a sticking cable can shear the drive teeth. Fuel gauge not working, needed the sender unit taking out and the float arm freeing off. Headlights not working were just down to furred connections. No dashboard lights, rheostat was U/S so I've wired dash lights to the side light feed.
With regard to your exhaust, I think the injection cars had a hanger that attaches to the panhard rod bracket you have pictured (but its ages since I looked at one). Also look at the rear hanging bracket above the tailpipes, if the bushes in that are not in tip top condition the rear box always bangs.
Your winders should have a black plastic cup between the winder and door card if its missing.
The car looks really solid underneath, the only thing I would say is ithe front jacking points might be missing? (hard to be sure from the pics but I cant see them). I see your in Corby, not too far away, so might see the car in the flesh some time.

Many thanks,

I didn't know the car was supposed to have front jacking points! The motor car has had lots of metalwork and nice paint (all looks to be of good quality) but I suppose the jacking points were not replaced. I'm guessing they should be something like my 244?

I've told my friend (the owner) that she could either get the jacking points fabricated and welded on, or carry a load spreader (i.e. a piece of wood) to use with the jack. I think she will use the piece of wood :-)

[Othen]

Originally Posted by packers1712

I have some of the winder handle clips however I have just sanity checked the Brookhouse website and the ones I have are for an Amazon and aren’t the same part number as the P1800 ones which amazes me!
I work in Wellingborough so I could bring some over one evening after work and see if they fit if you want? Just let me know.

Doug

That would be incredibly kind of you Doug. If you have time you would be very welcome for a brew and to see the motor car. I'll send you a PM with an address and cell phone number.
Alan

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by Othen

... the connections onto the H4 bulb were these domestic type. I've ordered a couple of replacement H4 connectors from that nice Mr Bazos and will get them soldered in properly when they arrive.

Those aren't H4 bulbs Alan.

They are P45t bases so you'd need H4 conversion bulbs to convert to halogen (normal H4 bases are P43t) and just so you can make sure you've rewired them correctly :



There are now these snazzy converter rings (P45t to P43t) that enable you to use H4 bulbs directly :

https://www.classiccarleds.co.uk/col...4-bulb-adapter

Alternatively :

https://www.classiccarleds.co.uk/col...eam-conversion

Each will only pull ~2A as opposed to ~5A per filament for tungsten H4 bulbs so much kinder to the wiring and switchgear. They also mimic the filament shape with the LEDs and give a perfect beam pattern.

I wonder how long the exhaust has been hung awkwardly like that?

[Othen]

Originally Posted by 142 Guy

With respect to the headlights, you are correct that the OEM headlight wiring is not fused. Volvo relies on a small melt down to eliminate the short circuit if a problem occurs in the headlight wiring. However, on a '73 ES the power supply for the headlights does originate from the unfused side of fuse #8 so its good to make sure that connection at the fuse panel is clean and tight. Personally, I prefer to have my headlights fused with separate high and low beam fuses.

A caution about LED bulbs in E code in reflectors meant for H4 bulbs. The H4 halogen bulb has a filament which is a linear light source. The lens and shape of the reflector are designed to work with this linear light source to create that characteristic light pattern associated with matched lens / reflector / H4 Halogen bulb systems. Individual LEDS are more of a point source that emit light in all directions above the plane of the emitting surface. Some H4 replacement LEDs are now better at approximating the linear filament by using multiple small LEDs in a line. Some H4 replacement LEDs are not so good at this. Those LEDs can be really bright; but, the light pattern that the lens throws may not end up where yo want it - including irritating on-coming drivers at night. Be careful in your selection if you want to use H4 LED replacements.

Many thanks. I have had similar experience with H4 LED bulbs on my motorcycles and have generally ended up going back to halogens. I think I still have some of the LEDs I have tried in bikes in the past, I may give them a go in Delores Rocket.

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by Othen

Many thanks. I have had similar experience with H4 LED bulbs on my motorcycles and have generally ended up going back to halogens. I think I still have some of the LEDs I have tried in bikes in the past, I may give them a go in Delores Rocket.

If the LED bulbs you tried were cheap ebay ones Alan, i'm not surprised, there is some absolute rubbish out there. If you want LEDs, you have to pay to get the good ones.