2000 v70 (D5252T) auxiliary belt replacement

[Brendan W]

Battery flat a fairly safe assumption. Jump start failures are mostly down to the poor quality of what passes for jump leads. I'm not a fan of jumping from running cars. The alternator output is puny in comparison to the battery. I have seen it work but put it down to the higher voltage from a revving alternator 14 V vs 12.6 V overcoming some of the shortcomings of the jump leads.

[Phaedrus68]

My thoughts too. I have jumped from my dad's car before (kids had fan & CD player on full blast while I popped into a shop), but my battery likely had some of its own juice to aid things, unlike now. Ex-wife has a 2l diesel... Hmm...

My jump cables aren't fabulous, but they're not LIDL either. IIRC, the packaging said they were good for cars up to 2.5l. I wasn't happy with the connection on my dad's negative terminal - crap access. Uncle mechanic suggested an alternative earth connection with good contact.

I'll work something out tomorrow. Thanks again all.

[Phaedrus68]

SORTED!

Local guy loaned me one of these - http://www.argos.ie/static/Product/p...s|14418754.htm

Took 23 hours to go from fully discharged to fully charged, but I can live with that. Started straight away once connected, so I guess that means I fitted the pulley & aux belt right...

So - thank you all! Hopefully karma is kind to ye.


Mark

[Brendan W]

There is an outside chance the battery may be getting tired. Check the voltage when cold. If it's getting up to 12.5 ish it's looking good. 12.2 or lower could be trouble. Check that you have 14+ at the battery when the motor is doing 2000 rpm say. If so the charging system is working and the low voltage is battery or current drain.

[theboyfromnorwich]

Appreciate I'm replying several years after this post... Exactly the same thing happened to me driving up the A1 near Biggleswade on Monday evening... My 850 2.5 Tdi Estate was still going strong having rolled 281,000 miles earlier that day! ...until the dreaded "donk" and a dashboard instantly lit up like a Christmas tree. Was expecting to find a mangled aux belt and possibly failed tensioner (that happened way back at about 130,000 miles... ) but alas no sign of the belt and no sign of the idler pulley or bolt. Interesting to read your comments about bolt length As I have no "old bolt" to compare to, I may well have to go to the scrappie to get one if the delivered part has a bolt that's too long... Fingers-crossed I'm soon back on the road and make it to 300,000 -probably in the next year or 2!!

James
____________
1996 850 Tdi Estate (281k daily driver - best car ever made!)
2010 C30 2.0D (Currently trying to sort overfueling white smoke issue)

Originally Posted by Phaedrus68

I went to fit the belt today. There was an empty bolt hole where the idler pulley should have been. It had come off and was at the bottom of the engine well. Bearing seized and partially disintegrated, but the belt-contact surface is in good shape.

Just ordered a new one from local parts shop - €54 (€58 ex-VAT from dealer, and the guy kept talking about the tensioner pulley, "no, this is the idler pulley, it's nothing to do with the tensioner"). Collecting tomorrow morning. While I had the covers off, I figured I'd try unloading the tensioner pulley - wasn't as tough to unload as I'd expected. Couldn't see any form of locking facility, but I'll just get my son to hold it while I route the belt - good for young lads to see that there's not really a lot of magic or mystery to this stuff. He was with me today, amazed that I was attempting the task with no more training than asking questions on a forum and watching a youtube video. In fairness, he does know that I've tackled some light mechanics stuff through the years, and he knows that I'll get pros to do what I'm not confident of pulling off.

Can anyone advise me on the torque setting for the idler pulley bolt, or direct me to where I might learn it? Volvo parts guy wouldn't help me out with that. As Haynes famously doesn't doesn't cover the D5252T, I'd have presumed it safe to go with the same setting as for the D5 that is covered by my Haynes, but that only gives a figure for the tensioner, nothing for the idler.

Four pics attached: the routing diagram for the belt, with a red ring around the pulley in question (just to confirm I have all the nomenclature correct), and three pics of the actual pulley from my car.


Thanks again guys.