Rear trailing arm suspension links: which way up?

[SteveSarre]

Hello all

I am part way through replacing the rear trailing arm suspension links on a 2001 C70 (but the part and the procedure is the same for 1998 and 1999 V70s).

I have read http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/for...ic.php?p=31294 and know how difficult it can be to remove the old link.

I bought the special tool from Rufe
Volvo tool # 999 5497

Removal was fairly straightforward. A blow torch helped disintegrate the old link, and I was able to pry the old shell and rubber out later. I cleaned up the inside of the trailing arm and the outside (and leading edge) of the new link with coarse wet-and-dry, lubricated the inside of the trailing arm (with bicycle wheel bearing grease) then reused the special tool to install the new link. Tapping the edge of the new link helped it seat into the trailing arm.

I have put everything back together BUT looking at the disintegrated old link I now realise that I may have put the new link in the wrong way up. Which is the right way? The steel core which should be embedded in rubber, which locates over the tube that sticks out of the body floor, sticks out of the top and bottom of the link but is not symmetrical. There is a wider long end, and a narrower shorter end. Which way should be UP?

If anyone needs to borrow the special tool, please PM me. I am in SW London and travel through Waterloo and London Bridge most days.

Thanks
Steve

[SteveSarre]

I have now done the other side, and taking it apart more carefully, I can see that the wider end of the central tube, goes UP.

Steve

[catflem]

Going through the same job myself at the moment, and its proving to be a bloody nightmare.

I'm still trying to remove the inner bolt (the one with the serrations). The car has lived its life on the coast, and the steel bolt appears to have welded itself to the ally axle.

A blowlamp aint shifting it, neither is whacking 7 bells out of it.

I've placed the bolt under tension by sticking a jack under it........... I'll pour myself a stiff one and go back out to it in an hour or two.

[Luxobarge]

Yes, the wider end goes upwards.

Have a look at how I did mine here:

http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showth...114983&page=28

Go from post #274, and also post #240 when I did the other one.

I didn't have a huge problem getting the holding bolt out, so can't really help on this issue.

Hope that thread is of some help though.

Cheers

[catflem]

Originally Posted by Luxobarge

Yes, the wider end goes upwards.

Have a look at how I did mine here:

http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showth...114983&page=28

Go from post #274, and also post #240 when I did the other one.

I didn't have a huge problem getting the holding bolt out, so can't really help on this issue.

Hope that thread is of some help though.

Cheers

I'm using your thread as my bible, it's been a great help........ or will be when I can get that bolt out

I'm using a 50/50 mix of Acetone (the wifes nail polish remover) and Power Steering fluid as there are rave reviews about the mixture being a good penetrant. I'll soak the bolt every couple of hours, and see if it'll move in the morning.

[SteveSarre]

Hi Catflem

Yes, I had a 1999 a while back and I could not get the press screw out.

I really tried.

In the end I took it to Braydon and they did it. I believe they use a hydraulic portapuller to squeeze it out.

Steve

[catflem]

Every hour or 2 I go through a regime of heating it up for 5 minutes with a blowtorch, cool it with water, and then give the bolt a good whack. In between bouts of heating I fill the small recess around the bolt head with the acetone mix, and place a jack under the bolt to keep it under load.

No joy yet, but I'm hoping perseverance may eventually pay off............ but it looks like I'll be getting the bus to work for the rest of the week.

[ajm]

My S70 has also spent a good part of its life by the sea (ungaraged - not so very far from yours!) but I didn't have a huge amount of difficulty with these bolts even after sixteen years in place. They took a very hefty whack to start them moving all right, but nothing like you've been facing by the sound of it.

The problem of course with this particular job is that due to the location and orientation it's hard to get a swing at them and also the softness of the aluminium arm is a concern.

What size (weight) of hammer are you using? I've always found that a few really serious, well aimed blows from a good heavy hammer (4lb minimum for jobs like this) are far better than leathering away for ages with anything smaller.

[catflem]

I'm using a sledge hammer, but as you so rightly say the real problem is the lack of room to get a good swing with it.

I'll beg/steal/borrow a club hammer and give that a go.

I'm a stones throw from the Firth, so corrosion is a serious issue. If you leave a car unused for a couple of days the brake discs are coated in rust.

I'm also going to try placing two nuts on the bolt, and see if that will move the bolt a fraction. If I can crack the corrosion on the splined bolt it should be a doodle to get it out.

I've a feeling that I'm going to end up having to remove the axle to get that damn bolt out.

[SteveSarre]

Hi catflem

Just a few more thoughts:
I agree with ajm about the 4 lb hammer.
You have left all of the fixing bolts in place to ensure as much rigidity as possible.
You have loosened the bottom nut from the press screw (but left it on to protect the screw threads for now).
You have ordered a new press screw and nut
The press screw wont have welded itself to the aluminium. I think it will have become stuck in the tube at the narrow end of the bushing piece. Your acetone solution will have a hard time getting down that far.
You have wedged (eg wooden) above the trailing arm between the trailing arm and the car body to reduce vertical movement when you whack it.
You have lifted the car up as far as possible so you can get a good swing.

When you say that you have put the jack under to maintain tension, do you mean under the trailing arm (to reduce vertical movement) or under the press screw? I suppose that if you were able to use a jack (or two jacks) to press on a thick plate which presses on the press screw, then you are able to whack the plate (while it is still under pressure), that might help.

As a final suggestion, rather than heat the trailing arm or the press screw, if you are able I would consider freezing the press screw (liquid nitrogen if you have it! or a plumbers pipe freeze pack), but not much screw head is exposed.

If all else fails, removing the whole trailing arm is an option, but I haven't done it myself.

Steve