S40 (New) General : Volvo S40 Strange Deadlock Noise??

[chrisdc]

Originally Posted by brian1912

Is that the central locking motor that is squealing then?

I don't think so. Deadlocks only activate 25 seconds after you lock the car. Try locking your car and then opening the door. If it won't open, the central locking is doing its job. If the squealing starts the instant you lock the door - well then i'd look at the central locking. But the dealer said its all one unit anyway.

[mattievrs]

So, the owners that are having it done by volvo under warantee on 08 plate car?? Extended warantee on owned since new or not?
Someone said they oiled the mechanism? What exactly did you oil and how?

Cheers

[Falmouthboy]

No luck with the WD40, that said it still works. It's a 2008 car so out of warranty and so I will be looking for an Indi to do the work, but not until it fails, unless people are getting this done with a good will contribution from Volvo.

I do get the occasional spurious alarm activations and wonder if this is the cause.

[chrisdc]

Well, just got my car back, third deadlock replaced and the turbo sorted - some sort of valve i think. My car now locks quietly for the first time since i've owned it. The dealers always look run off their feet when i collect so i'm reluctant to press for more information. I did ask if i could have a photo of the deadlock so i could post it - 50/50 chance they said as apparently it had already been boxed up for return to Volvo HQ.

[Ninja59]

It usually is impossible to tell how they have failed without taking it apart, mine went in again for this just to release tightness in the mechanism much better now.

[chrisdc]

Originally Posted by chrisdc

Well, just got my car back, third deadlock replaced and the turbo sorted - some sort of valve i think. My car now locks quietly for the first time since i've owned it. The dealers always look run off their feet when i collect so i'm reluctant to press for more information. I did ask if i could have a photo of the deadlock so i could post it - 50/50 chance they said as apparently it had already been boxed up for return to Volvo HQ.

Just a quick update. Car still locks quietly. I was waiting for the fourth deadlock to go but it may have been changed before i bought the car. Such a pleasure to be able to walk away without hearing that dreadful screeching noise. Enough to make you jump out of your skin if you're not expecting it!

[DoyleS40]

My car has this same problem with the deadlock motor making noise as discussed in this thread. yesterday i remove the lock and opened it up completely to see why it is making the noise.

I've attached some pictures to explain what is happening. The two motors motors shown (the right hand one is the central locking motor, the left hand one is the deadlock motor)

The deadlock is active when the grey slider with the two round pins is disengaged from the black lever.

What I see in my car is that the rack is damaged the last two teeth are damaged, so when the gear on the motor runs to the end of the rack it is jumping over the teeth (which is what is causing the noise)




Lock overview.jpg

lock rack.jpg

Lock deadlock slider.jpg

[paddyred]

I've got the same problem, anyone know of the part no. and the method of removing the part (i.e hidden clips/springs that I need to be aware of). I'm obviously going to have to sort this out! I have an 08 V50.

[DoyleS40]

Originally Posted by paddyred

I've got the same problem, anyone know of the part no. and the method of removing the part (i.e hidden clips/springs that I need to be aware of). I'm obviously going to have to sort this out! I have an 08 V50.

before you start set window height and then disconnect batter (using correct procedure)

1) Remove outer door handle, you will need a Torx T25 (screw driver type, NOT socket and adaptor type) must be able to reach in through the panel. Ref. http://pdfcast.org/download/volvo-door-stuff.pdf (set the window height as shown)
2) Remove inner door handle and door card. Ref. http://pdfcast.org/download/removing...door-panel.pdf Note door handle does take a bit of force, remove inner plate (on inside of handle) and lift straight up. The door card is held in place with two torx screws in the handle area and eight plastic clips down the side and along the bottom (you can see where they are because there is a gap between the door panel and the card) note: don’t try to force the clip out of the panel, the centre of the clip is attached to the door card, when this is pulled out it releases the rest of the clip from the panel. Along the top of the panel are metal clips about 5/6 the door card pulls straight out off of these.
3) Release two window fixings, this is done with the window height set so the two bolts are visible through the two holes in the cassette (these are the two big plastic plugs/covers in the panel. Remove inner door cassette, ref. Same as one above http://pdfcast.org/download/volvo-door-stuff.pdf
4) Note to avoid the trouble of removing the wiring loom to release the door cassette, I just disconnected the plug at the central locking module and remove the whole central locking module off the door.( the module is released by pressing the centre of the three fixing points through the door, they will fall out the back be sure to catch them. http://pdfcast.org/download/removing...door-latch.pdf


P.S ( to hold the window glass out of the way, i used 50mm duck tape over the top of the door frame)

Note: after doing this once I would expect to be able to replace the door lock module in one to two hours.

Take care: watch you don't damage you paint work when handling the inner door cassette, with wiring attached, us some rags or towels to protect the door sill and door panel edges.

hope this is of some help, good luck.

[paddyred]

Thankyou very much for your response! Very helpful. All I have to do now is work out how many doors are bust, im starting to think more than 1!