240 fuel pump relay

[morwenna240]

My 240 Torslanda is having a “failure to proceed” moment. Symptoms: turning key, motor turns over happily, no fire. A quick twiddle of fuse 6 an off it goes. Sometimes a polish of contacts is needed before firing. Today, total refusal. A mate listening underneath heard no click at pump. When I flashed a wire between fuse terminals, a very small, as in, very, spark was seen. This happened over 3-4 months. Question: can this be the relay dying, died? They have contact breakers in, like dynamo control boxes? A new pump was fitted abouta yr ago.

[Moomoo]

When I switch on my ignition (91, 2.0l, 240), I hear the relay, behind the glove box.
Do you?

[Bob Meadows]

Having a spare fuel relay is worthwhile for these cars:~
You may never need it but it is advised, see forum details on how to bypass terminals on these as an emergency: again worth making up the jump wire and storing with the spares to be carried.

I had a very similar problem some time back with the fuse, as you have done make sure that the contacts are clean and keep checking from time to time.
Contact cleaning & turning the fuse also helps (changing the fuse in your case may help)
One point on the fuse location into the holders is that they can be easily dislodged so that the ends do not seat into the holes on the spring contact points- make sure these give a firm grip on the fuse... if loose you may see heat marks building etc.
The plastic fuse holders are available on line and useful if you have sausage fingers- leave in the fuse box for next time- I did a write up on this so will be available on the forum if required.
Good luck... Bob.

[morwenna240]

Originally Posted by Moomoo

When I switch on my ignition (91, 2.0l, 240), I hear the relay, behind the glove box.
Do you?

Er, no. Am a bit deaf. . . ! Will get someone to listen. A few yrs ago I was running a merc w123 estate fitted with the S class V8, an one occasionally had to give the fuel relay a shake to affect a start.

[Clifford Pope]

Clean the fuse contacts by forming a bit of fine emery paper into a shallow cone that matches the shape of the fuse and twist this against the springy terminals in the fuse box. You can clean up the ends of the fuse with emery paper, or just fit a new fuse.
When you fit the fuse, press the terminals together to squeeze the fuse while twiddling it a bit to lightly grind the ends into proper contact with the terminals.

If that doesn't work or is unreliable, fit a temporary bridging wire between terminals 4 an 6. This will start the fuel pump, by-passing the relay. You can drive the car like that, but the pump will keep running when you turn off the ignition. That establishes that the problem is with the relay. As you probably know it is white and tucked up behind the glove compartment in a clip. Either replace it, or you can open it up and re-solder the connections inside.

[morwenna240]

I took out relay, took off cover, tapped both sets of points a few times, reconnected, an engine fired straight up. I did make up the little jump lead for fuses 4 an 6, but didn’t need; will keep in glove box. Scrolling back in threads, in 2011 you said about the above, Clifford, then someone said “ this will only power up the tank pump, an you have a 50/50 chance of getting home”. Tsk. Anyway, thanks to all here present, an I’ll get a new relay to go with jump wire in glove box. Onwards, til next time!

[Jungle_Jim]

I have been experimenting with refurbishing white Fuel Pump Relays and so far it's working.... though I keep a few spares in the car. There's not much to them, only 2 solenoid relays, one has a diode, the other doesn't (apparently the green ones have much more circuitry).

Of course a brand-new pattern-part Fuel Pump Relay is probably no doubt a safe bet to get up-and-running, but refurbing the white relays is definitely worthwhile...

Re-solder all the joints - even if the the multimeter is showing continuity. Remove old solder and give it plenty of new solder. And optionally put a coat of clear lacquer or PCB coating on the bottom to protect the solder joints from corrosion after.

Check the resistance across both solenoid coils. They should be around 90 ohms ish give or take. If either coil is an open circuit, after re-soldering the joints onto the board, then that coil may be broken and is probably un-repairable.

Giving the relay contacts a squirt with contact cleaner could help. And perhaps use a very fine abrasive on the contacts if they are pitted or burnt.

The genuine ones - which - far-as-I-know - are usually German-made Stribel brand - apparently aren't available new any more, and most of the new ones for sale are cheaper pattern parts. Like a lot of original Volvo parts vs currently available supplies - the Stibel relays look like much better quality inside, but genuine or not, they are all worth refurbing if they've stopped working.

Either way - having a spare fuel pump relay is a no-brainer.

[morwenna240]

I opened up mine, it all looked very clean, no corrosion, solder shiny. I waggled the points a few times, refiitted, engine ran.
Incidentally, Simon has new, genuine Volvo ones, albeit £72, as opposed to 30 for his pattern ones.

[Jungle_Jim]

Originally Posted by morwenna240

Incidentally, Simon has new, genuine Volvo ones, albeit £72, as opposed to 30 for his pattern ones.

Who is Simon? is that Brookhouse?

[Chris1Roll]

Morwenna's Torslanda will be an LH-fuel injected car I believe?
The White relays for that are still available from Volvo.

The green fuel pump relays for the K-Jet cars are not available from Volvo any more, only pattern ones which are not as reliable by all accounts.
Theres another project for someone - recreate the same function using some high-quality relays and components.