2002 V70 2.4 SE Petrol – New Owner Seeking Advice

[Guddler]

Hello All

I am new to this forum and have joined the Volvo Owners Club just before posting this

I have found a Jaguar forum very useful since purchasing a 2005 X350 Super V8 some 2 years ago now and am hoping that I can get help and guidance here too as I have just taken delivery today of a 2002 V70 2.4 Petrol SE Estate – 170bhp with Automatic transmission

The car has only 9,278 (yes nine thousand) miles from new which is genuine

Fully stamped service book, serviced annually in May of each year, one family ownership from new

Sadly no detailed invoices to show works/parts fitted at each service

Service book stated cam belt changed in May 2013 at 8,583 miles ie car has done less than 1,000 miles on this belt

How often should the cam/timing belt be replaced ? If every 10 years will be due now ?

Other questions:

Fuel filler cap – can’t open and can’t find button/lever inside and none mentioned in owner’s manual. The car has half a tank, but given mileage history this fuel could be several years old !! I’m guessing the lock is defunct and will need sorting, will likely mean going in through boot side trim ?

Automatic transmission – owner’s manual (p146) refers I think to two possible transmissions ?

1. Automatic: GM: Volvo synthetic transmission oil (oil fulfilling the requirements of Dexron 111G0
2. Automatic: AW 5: Volvo transmission oil part no. 1161540-8. Do not mix with any other oil !

Are these two different gearbox options and if so which do you think my car would be ? I have to say the manual is somewhat lacking in detailed specs.

How often should automatic transmission fluid be changed ? I am minded to do so – are there any filters (or anything else) that should also be changed on the gearbox ?

I have a 2005 Jaguar Super 8 which has a “sealed for life” 6 speed ZF transmission and I had to virtually get the Jaguar agent to change the fluids at gunpoint when I bought the car 2 years ago, since found a Jag specialist in Paisley. I don’t believe anything is “sealed for life” and all fluids must degrade over time

Underseal – my intent is to get car fully Dinotrolled, I also did this with the Jag when I decided I was keeping long term.

Winter tyres – car is shod with 225/45 17” Pirellis – I suspect they are very old, but still have decent tread depth. Winter tyres are essential up here – I am prepared to run year round if there is a good fit for a 17”. Manual suggest winter tyres of 195/65 15” or 205/55 16” or 215/65 16” which would obviously mean a new set of 15/16 “ wheels. Thoughts ?

I would appreciate any other pointers from others’ experience – essential must do’s, things to look out for or check.

I live in Aberdeenshire and would appreciate any recommendations as to any Volvo specialists for this age of car – I am prepared to travel – eg the Jag goes to Paisley which is a round trip for me of c350 miles.

Many thanks in anticipation

James

[ASt85]

Originally Posted by Guddler

Hello All

I am new to this forum and have joined the Volvo Owners Club just before posting this

I have found a Jaguar forum very useful since purchasing a 2005 X350 Super V8 some 2 years ago now and am hoping that I can get help and guidance here too as I have just taken delivery today of a 2002 V70 2.4 Petrol SE Estate – 170bhp with Automatic transmission

The car has only 9,278 (yes nine thousand) miles from new which is genuine

Fully stamped service book, serviced annually in May of each year, one family ownership from new

Sadly no detailed invoices to show works/parts fitted at each service

Service book stated cam belt changed in May 2013 at 8,583 miles ie car has done less than 1,000 miles on this belt

How often should the cam/timing belt be replaced ? If every 10 years will be due now ?

Other questions:

Fuel filler cap – can’t open and can’t find button/lever inside and none mentioned in owner’s manual. The car has half a tank, but given mileage history this fuel could be several years old !! I’m guessing the lock is defunct and will need sorting, will likely mean going in through boot side trim ?

Automatic transmission – owner’s manual (p146) refers I think to two possible transmissions ?

1. Automatic: GM: Volvo synthetic transmission oil (oil fulfilling the requirements of Dexron 111G0
2. Automatic: AW 5: Volvo transmission oil part no. 1161540-8. Do not mix with any other oil !

Are these two different gearbox options and if so which do you think my car would be ? I have to say the manual is somewhat lacking in detailed specs.

How often should automatic transmission fluid be changed ? I am minded to do so – are there any filters (or anything else) that should also be changed on the gearbox ?

I have a 2005 Jaguar Super 8 which has a “sealed for life” 6 speed ZF transmission and I had to virtually get the Jaguar agent to change the fluids at gunpoint when I bought the car 2 years ago, since found a Jag specialist in Paisley. I don’t believe anything is “sealed for life” and all fluids must degrade over time

Underseal – my intent is to get car fully Dinotrolled, I also did this with the Jag when I decided I was keeping long term.

Winter tyres – car is shod with 225/45 17” Pirellis – I suspect they are very old, but still have decent tread depth. Winter tyres are essential up here – I am prepared to run year round if there is a good fit for a 17”. Manual suggest winter tyres of 195/65 15” or 205/55 16” or 215/65 16” which would obviously mean a new set of 15/16 “ wheels. Thoughts ?

I would appreciate any other pointers from others’ experience – essential must do’s, things to look out for or check.

I live in Aberdeenshire and would appreciate any recommendations as to any Volvo specialists for this age of car – I am prepared to travel – eg the Jag goes to Paisley which is a round trip for me of c350 miles.

Many thanks in anticipation

James

You can operate the fuel flap manually from inside the right rear quarter panel, pull the lamp access flap, put you hand up the back of the panel and just close to the back of the power socket you'll find a plastic tab which is on the end of the fuel flap lock, pull it towards the back of the car and the lock will release - there's a how to repair it here https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=143888

re tyres - lose the Pirelli ditch finders asap - go for Michelin CrossClimates in your existing rim size - they are amazing in snow and ice, and incredibly quiet and highly fuel efficient - they are also good on dry roads - some say the rubber is on the soft side, but the grip is outstanding in all weather conditions. Their recent variant CrossClimate 2s are even better than the original offering IMHO cost effective from the mileage you'll get out of them.

Re transmission fluid - look at the vin plate, note the number and ask FRF Swansea which is the recommended fluid, similarly the power steering fluid - it needs to be the Green Pentosin - Comma MVCHF aka CHF1L Central Hydraulic Fluid CHF 11S - even from Halfords 1 litre is half the price of the Volvo OEM, and chemically exactly the same.

PS
given the very low mileage for that year car and the possibility of old fuel contamination, after pumping the tank dry consider sticking a bottle of Cataclean in the first 2 or 3 gallons of fresh petrol in the tank to reduce the risk of moisture in the tank/fuel system as well as reducing the risk of a plugged cat as it will not have been reaching the sustained temperature needed to keep the OEM Cat clear and as a matter of change the fuel filter which may well be collapsed.

Re transmission fluid - if it is still red and doesn't smell like toast or coffee it is probably alright - that said there are those who would change it using the Gibbons method as a matter of course to obviate any future problems given the very low mileage for the year

Bottom line here - you've got yourself a cracker.......if you decide to unload it - give me a bell

[Guddler]

ASt85

Many thanks for your reply.

I have managed to get the fuel flap open - that is a major engineering feat for me !! (I have zero mechanicing skills). Next stop is the filling station to dilute that old petrol by brimming the tank. Will look for Cataclean.

Noted re tyres, will look for Michelins as suggested.

See earlier re cam/timing belts - marked as replaced in 2013 at 8583 miles so nearly 10 years but only less than 1000 miles. Should belt be replaced after 10 years irrespective of mileage ? I will probably do that.

If there is anything else you think I should get checked out please advise - car will be going to garage asap anyway so I am compiling a to-do list to which I can add suggested items

Thanks & regards

James

[ASt85]

Belt replacement is recommended at a max of 9 year or 90k mile intervals - given the price of the belts - I change mine every 6 years irrespective of mileage - price of the all the belts and idlers approx. +/- £130 or so - price of a replacement pre-owned engine significantly north of a minimum of £2K before fitting - CHANGE THE BELTS!! You won't need a new water pump until at least 150K miles and probably not even then!

[Nick6262]

Out of interest where the hell did you manage to find that car?

Must be the lowest mileage V70 in the UK?

If you want to check the tyre age you can look at the DOT code on them. http://www.tyred.org.uk/decoder

[Bearintheair]

Welcome to the forum and P2 ownership!

Just to back up ASt85, I run crossclimate 2s on mine (on 15s) and they're fantastic. I would be looking in to getting the cam belt changed sooner rather than later.

Hopefully with the low miles there will have been minimal movement to accelerate suspension rubbers perishing, but there are some weak spots in the suspension of these that wear bushings fast (engine mounts, front control arms, rear trailing arms), so I wouldn't be surprised if there's some suspension work in your future.

[stuart bowes]

did the family just buy a volvo, drive it a few times then just completely forget they owned it for 20 years.. wtf

I'd be checking rubber parts like bushes, mounts, gaiters, track rod end and balljoints etc, with age all of that can be brittle and start to crack . may be fine but worth checking anyway

same goes for the filler cap, mine was jammed as well and it was because of the little rubber seal in the lock mech which had dried out and gone brittle jamming the locking bar (in the open position in my case) easy enough to fix. actually I just took it and reassembled without it, works fine now

you might want to try and get yourself a copy of the volvo bespoke fault reading software, VIDA, which requires a hardware tool that connects to the ODB2 and runs on a laptop. software is freely available and has a part catalouge / detailed instructions for most repair jobs. worth getting on its own even without the hardware tool, I run it on windows 10 fine

getting the hardware part is a bit more awkward but not impossible but then you can see faults on all of the modules, which with the best will in the world there inevitably will be at least one at some point

another method to get part numbers without VIDA is use https://www.skandix.de/en/ and then use those part numbers to search for stuff on ebay which is where I get 90% of the parts I've bought. Actually I trawl ebay now and again anyway seeing as parts are getting more scarce you never know what bargains you might find while the bits are still available. like a rear light cluster, mine had a tiny scratch that was annoying me, and I saw replacement cheap. etc

I use Pirelli blueresponse on mine and they're perfectly fine, excellent grip, quiet, decent economy (as far as you can with these cars anyway) reinforced, lasting very well with no sign of wear at all in the year I've owned them so far.. the only thing is I made a mistake and didnt realise they're actually summer tyres, so next time for that reason only I will get the michellin crossclimate 2's (about the same price). but saying that they behaved perfectly over the winter

[Guddler]

Good Morning ASt85, Nick, Bear & Stuart

Many thanks for taking the time to reply sharing your advice & experience – it is much appreciated

It’s feeling like a similar journey to the one travelled with the Jag, it’s a 55 plate that I bought unseen as a high-day/holiday car after looking for around 2 years in July 20 with 38k miles in single family ownership. Whilst low miles sound great, inactivity does cars no favours – the Jag had only done about 1,000 miles in the 4 years immediately prior to my purchase.

The first thing I did was rack up some miles, just to see what happened. Started off with main dealer in Aberdeen, but laterally switched to marque specialist in Paisley once I had decided it was a “keeper” – means leaving the car there and train journeys, but worth it for the expertise, peace of mind and cost saving. The Jag is now on 56k and has had everything done that needs doing, including the dreaded “valley hose” – costs £5 but to replace means removing supercharger & ancillaries as the pipe lurks at the bottom of the V, it’s the car’s Achilles heel – the point is not warranted by mileage but certainly in my view by age, like wise various suspension bushes, auto-box fluid, underseal etc.

My approach with this Volvo will be the same and I have allowed and prepared for some spend to make it safe and fit it’s new for high miles lifestyle.

This Volvo replaces a 2011 Skoda Octavia Estate which I have had since 2014 as my daily driver/dog-car and had got to 168k. I have been looking for a replacement for some time and have considered various things from another L322 to a Jag X type estate. I don’t like modern cars, and think the 1995-2005/10 era hit the evolutionary sweet spot before technical “wizardry” went nuts – I am a Luddite who hates touchscreens preferring switches, buttons and dials.

I also believe when you are looking for something, but not quite sure what it exactly is, you will recognise it when you see it – that just about sums up why I bought this one, it just felt “right”. It appeared at auction down south, and I bought unseen after viewing the video – it did contemplate an AA inspection, as I did with the Jag which was also bought unseen, but I have followed the auction house for some time and their appraisal videos seem and have been proved to be honest and fair including pointing out known defects.

The car is mint and has been serviced annually in spite of the exceptionally low mileages. I can see it has been cared for by the same Indie since 2013 (when there was a cam belt and water pump), but I only have one detailed invoice from the 2021 service.

First step therefore will be to contact the Indie and make enquiry as to what exactly has and has not been done over the years, 2022 service was noted as “interim”.

Assuming the annual services have been limited to routine fluids & filters only, the “to-do” list is shaping up as follows:

Tyres – check the “DOT code and they are still the original 20 years old set – so 4 Michelins looking at about £115-120 per corner. I checked the pressures – one was low and I noticed a bolt protruding from the tread which I removed and 2 doses of aerosol repair later it’s still deflating so now on space saver, which I will also replace with full size.


Fuel – my local Indie filling station did not stock “Cataclean” or equivalent but I did buy some Redex additive when I fuelled up with E5 petrol to the brim to dilute the old fuel. I run the Jag on E5/super and will do the same with the Volvo. I’ll go to Halfords or similar when I’m next in town and look for the recommended “Cataclean”

Cambelt & ancillary belts – these are a given - I’ll chance the water pump for now unless it’s thought dodgy by the garage

Code reader – I have an I-soft for the Jag, and will get the VIDA – what exactly do you need to facilitate lap-top connection and whereabouts in the car is the connection point ? The Jag has a habit of sometimes throwing “minor codes” eg fuel air/mixture which when cleared do not re-appear for several hundred miles. Sometimes I think they are produced just because they can be and the car’s software just want to remind you how clever it is.

Rubbers – bushes, mounts etc – will get all of these checked out

Automatic transmission – certainly a fluid change – are there any filters or other related ancillaries that should be done at the same time ?

Load area – I will be looking for a dog guard for sure. T there is a plastic/rubber boot mat, which I will replace with a Hatchbag, but I would also like a full load area (ie seats down) protector mat – any ideas where I might get one ? Likewise I would also like to get rubber floor mats to protect the carpets – ideally properly fitting ones.

Bluetooth – the car has no phone connectivity, there was a “parrot” fitted to the Skoda when I bought it which I quite happily used – I was thinking of getting the same for the Volvo but any suggestions what to do here – music streaming would by nice rather than essential, car phone is needed for sure ?

Mudflaps – none fitted so will need to find some

Underseal – will get full Dynatrol treatment

Hopefully all of the above will give me a fully sorted car that will last for many years and miles and be a pleasure to own and drive.

I have a good local Indie in mind to use – I am not a mechanic in any shape or form – but if there is a known Volvo marque specialist in Scotland I’d be interested in speaking to them.

If I have missed anything else you regards as important please let me know, and any further help in fleshing out the detail in areas so far identified would also be much appreciated.

Regards

James

[Simmy]

dont let the garage talk you into a water pump replacment volvo pump is bomb proof .watch out for the alarm message on the dash it will become faulty at this age . new siren required or try the battery replacemet check the condition of the rubber brake hoses before driveing the car . well done on finding sutch a low mileage car.

[stuart bowes]

There is cheap option on the Bluetooth you can plug in a small unit into the rear of your head unit, where the cd changer would usually attach..

Like this but try and find the version with the microphone for phone calls as well .. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Bluetooth-a...40726040&psc=1

I just replaced the whole unit with a touchscreen, does all of that plus reversing camera etc

One thing to remember when getting at the radio don't disconnect the air con panel or it throws up an air bag fault (go figure) just carefully turn it 180 and there will be just enough cable to hang it under the steering wheel out the way

ETM (throttle body) can be a problem with the early models, I can't remember which years that affects but they are notorious. The dealer will want to sell you brand new and charge programming but you can buy used off ebay and get others to program it in. As always doing things yourself saves unnecessarily wasting thousands but the programming is something only main dealers and people with the right computer system can do (which they may or may not have approval for.. im told there was a big legal dispute over it and volvo tried to keep it all to themselves but as long as the indie doesn't try to do the updates the system still works)

Yeah mine did the alarm one as well, new unit was about 170 and a pain to get at high up in the arch in front of the drivers side front wheel or behind the headlight (bumper removal) depending of your preferred angle of attack