Electrical: In Tank Fuel Pump Electrical Sender Repair??

[Big 240]

OK so I have successfully replaced the pump on my in-tank fuel pump. Nice easy job. However it still wasn't working after reconnecting it.

I have traced it to the electric sender that is attached to the top plate, this has oxidised and has corroded (as can be seen in the pics) and so the power feed isn't getting down to the pump etc.

Now I know I can buy a replacement, but I really do like to fix things if I can, so my question is this: Can I run the power cables through the top using rubber grommets (and sealed with araldite or similar that's fuel safe) as this is all the sender is doing. Has anyone done this before??? I've seen that Volvo did this on their earlier tank senders (see pic)

Guy

[Clifford Pope]

What does the sender do? Surely there's just a pump with motor, and two wires?

[Big 240]

Originally Posted by Clifford Pope

What does the sender do? Surely there's just a pump with motor, and two wires?

It maybe my terminology, but yes it's simply where the wires are connected on the top, underneath the wires to the level sender and the pump are soldered onto the pins that poke through.

It's obviously just a safety thing so there aren't wires passing through the top etc. However I have come up with a cunning plan.... I am going to use the third pipe conduit that is spare and has a cap over it to pass the wires through instead. Pass wires down, attach and seal up the pipe. Job done.

Pic for example.

[SnineT]

It's petrol mate don't mess with it, get one out of a scrapper or get one from a motor factors, one spark regardless how careful you are and KERPOW!

[Big 240]

Originally Posted by SnineT

It's petrol mate don't mess with it, get one out of a scrapper or get one from a motor factors, one spark regardless how careful you are and KERPOW!

It's all good chap. Routing the cable through the third pipe is safe. I am using some silicon tube I have left over to sleeve the wire, then pushing that through the pipe. There's zero danger of sparking. If you look at the pic of the older style unit it's a similar idea, but they are going through a metal grommet type thing.

[SnineT]

Originally Posted by Big 240

It's all good chap. Routing the cable through the third pipe is safe. I am using some silicon tube I have left over to sleeve the wire, then pushing that through the pipe. There's zero danger of sparking. If you look at the pic of the older style unit it's a similar idea, but they are going through a metal grommet type thing.

Even though I can tell you're a master of your own destiny I still wouldn't mess about with it myself, good luck if you do and just be double sure nothing is able to touch or snag.

[Big 240]

I will of course be purchasing a replacement pump when funds allow, but for now this fix has worked and will allow me to use the car haha.

[Othen]

Originally Posted by Big 240

I will of course be purchasing a replacement pump when funds allow, but for now this fix has worked and will allow me to use the car haha.

Have you already done this and it worked? If so well done.

Post some pictures and words in case the repair is useful to someone else please.

Alan

[Juular]

I did a similar job on mine, but instead of using the spare pipe hole, I drilled out the existing connector, soldered new wires in, then used hot glue to 'pot' the wires in place.





This worked perfectly until the level float arm fell off a few months later and I replaced the whole unit.

It will be safe enough. Even if it sparked inside the tank nothing whatsoever would happen, as the fuel to air mixture is far too rich to ignite.

[Big 240]

Originally Posted by Juular

I did a similar job on mine, but instead of using the spare pipe hole, I drilled out the existing connector, soldered new wires in, then used hot glue to 'pot' the wires in place.



This worked perfectly until the level float arm fell off a few months later and I replaced the whole unit.

It will be safe enough. Even if it sparked inside the tank nothing whatsoever would happen, as the fuel to air mixture is far too rich to ignite.

Great fix chap!

My tangs were all oxidised/rotten almost flat so there wasn't anything to connect to. I do enjoy a free fix