Ill feeling 164E - Page 3

Lesky · May 22nd, 2011, 02:09

Quote:

Originally Posted by Clan

That solenoid thing above is an idle speed compensation air bleed , when the Air Conditioning pump is on the valve lets more air through to compensate for the extra load and therefore the idle speed stays the same or rises slightly ..

Hmm. This isn't quite making sense. The sensor threads into the bottom of the idle adjust fitting sealing off where it threads in. Do you know how it bleeds air in?

Lesky · May 22nd, 2011, 02:17

Indeed the York is quite large. I heard that the York 209A compressors work awesome running on R12. Ice cold A/C. However, fitting for R134a isn't so well. Vent temps, I've heard, only get down to about 50F or so.

Lesky · May 22nd, 2011, 02:30

What are everyone's experiences with adjusting idle with the adjusting knob? I tried blanking off the aux air regulator after my engine had warmed to see if I could get the idle to come back down by adjusting with the idle and it seemed like the adjusting knob didn't do anything. Perhaps it's just me?

The vacuum leak at the brake booster is small so I don't think that's affecting it too bad.

Clan · May 22nd, 2011, 08:27

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lesky

Hmm. This isn't quite making sense. The sensor threads into the bottom of the idle adjust fitting sealing off where it threads in. Do you know how it bleeds air in?

it has a rubber plunger on the end which opens up a built in channel in the idle circuit to let more air past the throttle ...

Lesky · May 28th, 2011, 02:20

A quick update. So far, I have confirmed that both air temp and coolant temp are faulty. Will be replacing soon once parts arrive. Also, I fixed the leak on the brake booster. I'm going to try to free up the aux regulator and will report my process if successful. Also, when I pulled the aux reg., I found that the lines to and from the aux reg. were full of gunk. Will post a picture tomorrow. The amount of gunk is pretty impressive.

Lesky · Jun 27th, 2011, 00:47

Fouled up throttle body. Notice the amount of restriction where the idle bypass air flows into the intake.

Lesky · Jun 27th, 2011, 00:51

A quick update: I pulled my aux air regulator and tested it with my heat gun. The valve closes as it should as the tip gets warmer. I replaced the air and water temp sensors and fixed the vacuum leak at the brake booster but to no avail. The car still likes to idle at 2000 RPM cold. I've tried readjusting the TPS and then adjust the idle with the adjusting screw but the adjusting screw doesn't change the idle.

Any ideas? Oh, I've also tried running the car with my spare map sensor but that didn't have any effect either.

B20F · Jun 27th, 2011, 08:24

Are the airhoses from the carterventilaion and brakebooster not mixed up on the manifold? The ventilation hose should be connected to the restricted connection and de brakebooster hose to the non-restricted connection on the manifold

Lesky · Jun 28th, 2011, 00:56

Is the carterventilation hose the one that comes out of the block on the other and hooks to the middle of the inlet?

B20F · Jun 28th, 2011, 08:28

Yep, the brakebooster hose and carterventilation hose are next to each other on the manifold. If you connected the ventialtion hose on the non restricted connection for the brakebooster the manifold will draw too much air which results in a too high idle. If you shine with a torch in the connector for the ventilation you can see the restriction, the opening is restricted to a small pinhole.

May 22nd, 2011, 02:17	#22
Lesky Member Last Online: Jul 25th, 2015 18:47 Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Detroit, MI	Indeed the York is quite large. I heard that the York 209A compressors work awesome running on R12. Ice cold A/C. However, fitting for R134a isn't so well. Vent temps, I've heard, only get down to about 50F or so. __________________ Lesky '73 164E

May 22nd, 2011, 02:30	#23
Lesky Member Last Online: Jul 25th, 2015 18:47 Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Detroit, MI	What are everyone's experiences with adjusting idle with the adjusting knob? I tried blanking off the aux air regulator after my engine had warmed to see if I could get the idle to come back down by adjusting with the idle and it seemed like the adjusting knob didn't do anything. Perhaps it's just me? The vacuum leak at the brake booster is small so I don't think that's affecting it too bad. __________________ Lesky '73 164E

May 28th, 2011, 02:20	#25
Lesky Member Last Online: Jul 25th, 2015 18:47 Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Detroit, MI	A quick update. So far, I have confirmed that both air temp and coolant temp are faulty. Will be replacing soon once parts arrive. Also, I fixed the leak on the brake booster. I'm going to try to free up the aux regulator and will report my process if successful. Also, when I pulled the aux reg., I found that the lines to and from the aux reg. were full of gunk. Will post a picture tomorrow. The amount of gunk is pretty impressive. __________________ Lesky '73 164E

Jun 27th, 2011, 00:47	#26
Lesky Member Last Online: Jul 25th, 2015 18:47 Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Detroit, MI	Fouled up throttle body. Notice the amount of restriction where the idle bypass air flows into the intake. __________________ Lesky '73 164E Last edited by Lesky; Jun 27th, 2011 at 00:52.

Jun 27th, 2011, 00:51	#27
Lesky Member Last Online: Jul 25th, 2015 18:47 Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Detroit, MI	A quick update: I pulled my aux air regulator and tested it with my heat gun. The valve closes as it should as the tip gets warmer. I replaced the air and water temp sensors and fixed the vacuum leak at the brake booster but to no avail. The car still likes to idle at 2000 RPM cold. I've tried readjusting the TPS and then adjust the idle with the adjusting screw but the adjusting screw doesn't change the idle. Any ideas? Oh, I've also tried running the car with my spare map sensor but that didn't have any effect either. __________________ Lesky '73 164E

Jun 27th, 2011, 08:24	#28
B20F Master Member Last Online: Jul 7th, 2016 21:43 Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Zeist View Photos By: B20F	Are the airhoses from the carterventilaion and brakebooster not mixed up on the manifold? The ventilation hose should be connected to the restricted connection and de brakebooster hose to the non-restricted connection on the manifold __________________

Jun 28th, 2011, 00:56	#29
Lesky Member Last Online: Jul 25th, 2015 18:47 Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Detroit, MI	Is the carterventilation hose the one that comes out of the block on the other and hooks to the middle of the inlet? __________________ Lesky '73 164E

Jun 28th, 2011, 08:28	#30
B20F Master Member Last Online: Jul 7th, 2016 21:43 Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Zeist View Photos By: B20F	Yep, the brakebooster hose and carterventilation hose are next to each other on the manifold. If you connected the ventialtion hose on the non restricted connection for the brakebooster the manifold will draw too much air which results in a too high idle. If you shine with a torch in the connector for the ventilation you can see the restriction, the opening is restricted to a small pinhole. __________________

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