V60, rattling from rear interior

[V60white]

Been getting a rattle, more of a plastic type clunk from the nearside rear, interior I think.

It's a 2013 V60 on which I am gradually eliminating problems with the car and in the scheme of things this a a small thing but annoying just the same !!

The interior panels don't seem that well installed with some movement in most sections but this afternoon I discovered that the lower panels on the inside of the hatch seem to rattle a lot..this might be the problem.
Are the interior panels in general a bit slack on modern Volvos? The last Volvo I had was a 360GLT (240 before that !!)
Very plasticky stuff but presumably attached with some sort of clips...do they deteriorate with age ??
Worth pulling off, hopefully without breaking, as said plasticky, bits???

[V60white]

Still no further on with this, there seems to be an increased amount of noise now so I am wondering if the rear top shock mounts have gone or the shock itself / or both.
The interior panels seem to be solid despite the flimsy construction.

The shocks look to be just a bottom bolt and two mount bolts up top, are the units easy to remove for testing ?

Is it just worth replacing them anyway ? Car on 133k now and they look to be original.

I would just use aftermarket parts so any recommendations would be appreciated.

[Kev0607]

Rear shocks are a doddle to replace. At 133k, its likely they'll be worn anyway. Being honest, the same applies to the front. If you've got no record of them ever being replaced, its likely they could be original too.

If going aftermarket, go with Bilstein, Sachs or KYB. Use good quality mounts too.

Parts for Volvo is a good place to use. Just put your model/model year in, go to suspension and view what they have to offer. Last time I checked, they did a kit (front and rear shocks) for £221 (Bilstein B4's). Whether they still do it, I'm not sure. You have to buy the rear mounts separate, as well as the top mounts for the front (if you do them). The kit doesn't include those, nor does it include the springs.

Its up to you if you replace the springs though. If they aren't cracked, they can be reused.

[V60white]

Originally Posted by Kev0607

Rear shocks are a doddle to replace. At 133k, its likely they'll be worn anyway. Being honest, the same applies to the front. If you've got no record of them ever being replaced, its likely they could be original too.

If going aftermarket, go with Bilstein, Sachs or KYB. Use good quality mounts too.

Parts for Volvo is a good place to use. Just put your model/model year in, go to suspension and view what they have to offer. Last time I checked, they did a kit (front and rear shocks) for £221 (Bilstein B4's). Whether they still do it, I'm not sure. You have to buy the rear mounts separate, as well as the top mounts for the front (if you do them). The kit doesn't include those, nor does it include the springs.

Its up to you if you replace the springs though. If they aren't cracked, they can be reused.

Thanks for that, I guess I should replace them anyway regardless of tracking down the knock...., I need to add these , I guess, as I gradually replace service type items.

Does the rear suspension top mount rubber give up ? Clonking??

The car is R Design, do you know if they are shorter shocks than standard or is it just the springs / suspension design?

I have already done the top front mount , offside, the shocks and springs were good but the bumpstop and top mount bearing were totalled.

[Kev0607]

Yep. The rear mount can fail.

Another culprit for clunking in the rear are the trailing arm bushes. You need a press tool for those, plus alignment afterwards.

R design suspension is different. You may have nivomat shocks in the rear. They aren’t cheap… £500+ a piece and are only available from the main dealer. Fronts are standard.

You’re best of checking what you have before ordering anything. Have a look under the car or phone your dealer to ask if you have nivomat rear suspension or not, or Google Nivomat shock images and compare that with what you have.

[V60white]

Originally Posted by Kev0607

R design suspension is different. You may have nivomat shocks in the rear. They aren’t cheap… £500+ a piece and are only available from the main dealer. Fronts are standard.

You’re best of checking what you have before ordering anything. Have a look under the car or phone your dealer to ask if you have nivomat rear suspension or not, or Google Nivomat shock images and compare that with what you have.

The Nivomats are the thin ended versions towards the lower eye bolt I think ?? Just had a quick look , pretty much same diameter all way down.
Good call though, will check the vin with a supplier and see what they have on record...

[Kev0607]

Originally Posted by V60white

The Nivomats are the thin ended versions towards the lower eye bolt I think ?? Just had a quick look , pretty much same diameter all way down.
Good call though, will check the vin with a supplier and see what they have on record...

For illustration only. These aren’t for your car.

Nivomat’s have a rubber boot on them. Standard shocks don’t.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/285760929...iABEgKn5vD_BwE

If you haven’t got Nivomat’s, that’s certainly good for your pocket!

[monkeh]

My interior has rattling too. At 50k I'm surprised.
Being hybrid it's more noticeable when you're driving along in silence.
Pulling the rear trim out, driving along I haven't yet managed to identify it. I'll be making a friend sit in the boot and taking my favorite potholed private road...
Sound deadening will be added to the rubbish plastics, along with fabric tape to the contact surfaces on the plastic and clip holes. Maybe more sound deadening behind the factory matting/sound deadening and securing cables from rattling.
Did that on the chrysler I owned a few years back and it definitely made the world of a difference. No booming noises, doors shut with a thunk not a tinny clunk.

[V60white]

Originally Posted by monkeh

My interior has rattling too. At 50k I'm surprised.
Being hybrid it's more noticeable when you're driving along in silence.
Pulling the rear trim out, driving along I haven't yet managed to identify it. I'll be making a friend sit in the boot and taking my favorite potholed private road...
Sound deadening will be added to the rubbish plastics, along with fabric tape to the contact surfaces on the plastic and clip holes. Maybe more sound deadening behind the factory matting/sound deadening and securing cables from rattling.
Did that on the chrysler I owned a few years back and it definitely made the world of a difference. No booming noises, doors shut with a thunk not a tinny clunk.

Wow !! 50k miles !! I am surprised !

Mine at 133k has an excuse but you are right, no reason (cost probably) for the rubbish plastics they have used in the back especially.

The trims don't seem to fit hard up against the window edges, boot edges etc......leaving a gap of a quarter inch doesn't seem right to me, there is no support......also worried about breaking the plastic trims trying to pull them off...need a bit warmer weather really !!

[Kev0607]

Having someone sit in the back is a good idea, as monkeh says. Its hard to pinpoint where noises are coming from in the driver's seat.

Going back to the suspension side of things, maybe its simply interior related. Although, I can't see how interior panels would make a clunking noise. That'd be more of a buzzling plastic vibration. Don't rule out the rear trailing arm bushes. Its a common failure point on Volvo's of this era. As the clonking is coming from the rear, it could well be those bushes.