Cam belt timing marks

[zchael6]

Hello!

Right had another nightmare today. I’m changing the cam belt, and before I took the old one off I aligned the wrong blob on the cam shaft with the dot behind it. Fortunately I have realised my error before putting the new belt on and putting it back together. I realised as I checked the crank shaft and intermediate shaft and saw they were not lined up.

I have now lined them all up but have read on here something about checking “#1 is in compression” basically I’m worried now I’m going to put the belt on start the engine and damage something

I’m really annoyed as I have done a cam belt before on a 940 but I just looked at the wrong mark.

Any help would be appreciated

Edit:
I aligned all the marks on the pulleys with the marks on the back of the belt cover as per the stepbystepvolvo instructions and put the new belt on. I then put the crank pulley on and rotated the crank two full turns and all the marks aligned again. I don’t know if this means it’s all sorted or whether I still need to check the compression. the crank was difficult to turn about half way through each of the turns, meaning it was easy to turn at the end and the beginning but hard when it was about 180 degrees through turning each time

[360beast]

If all of of the timing marks line up you should be fine, these engines are non-interference so you won't damage any valves.

The reason it got harder to turn was because of the compression in the cylinders, if you take the spark plugs out it will be a lot easier to turn.

[arctan]

Originally Posted by 360beast

If all of of the timing marks line up you should be fine, these engines are non-interference so you won't damage any valves.

The reason it got harder to turn was because of the compression in the cylinders, if you take the spark plugs out it will be a lot easier to turn.

Hi Will. There is a nice movie about this:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7eIFWUbSZTw
(IPD Volvo - Timing Belt Replacement 200 700 900 4 cylinder Volvos, 9 minutes).
Also maybe swap out the tensioner- some people say do it every other belt, or if it feels rough when spun. It might be 33 ft/pounds torque, re-torque through the bung after 600 miles or so.
John.

[zchael6]

Originally Posted by arctan

Hi Will. There is a nice movie about this:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7eIFWUbSZTw
(IPD Volvo - Timing Belt Replacement 200 700 900 4 cylinder Volvos, 9 minutes).
Also maybe swap out the tensioner- some people say do it every other belt, or if it feels rough when spun. It might be 33 ft/pounds torque, re-torque through the bung after 600 miles or so.
John.

Thanks for the link. I’ve lined it all up now I just wondered whether having done the lining up with the belt off it now means the timing is out.

Thanks for all the replies!! Love this forum

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by zchael6

Thanks for the link. I’ve lined it all up now I just wondered whether having done the lining up with the belt off it now means the timing is out.

Thanks for all the replies!! Love this forum

If the timing marks all line up then it should be correct, as long as you've used the correct timing marks.

Check your tension is correct, remove the oil filler cap and look inside to see the cam lobes on #1 cylinder. They should form a sort of V shape, pointing upwards. If so, that is compression on #1, you should be goo to test start it at that point if everything else is in place.

After 600 miles, retension the belt - slacken the tensioner, reset the tension and retighten the tensioner. This is what was referred to when arctan said retorque it after 600 miles.

[360beast]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

If the timing marks all line up then it should be correct, as long as you've used the correct timing marks.

Check your tension is correct, remove the oil filler cap and look inside to see the cam lobes on #1 cylinder. They should form a sort of V shape, pointing upwards. If so, that is compression on #1, you should be goo to test start it at that point if everything else is in place.

After 600 miles, retension the belt - slacken the tensioner, reset the tension and retighten the tensioner. This is what was referred to when arctan said retorque it after 600 miles.

Just to clarify Dave to reset the tension you just slacken off the bolt you torque to 33lbft and then torque it back up as they are automatic tensioners. Volvo put a handy rubber bung in the cambelt cover so you can get to the tensioner bolt.

[mocambique-amazone]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

After 600 miles, retension the belt - slacken the tensioner, reset the tension and retighten the tensioner. This is what was referred to when arctan said retorque it after 600 miles.

Do this only at TDC cyl 1

good luck, Kay

[mocambique-amazone]

Originally Posted by 360beast

If all of of the timing marks line up you should be fine, these engines are non-interference so you won't damage any valves.

Some did learn it the hard way:

B200F seems to be interference engines

B2x4 are for 100% interference

B2xyK and B2xyH are interference too

Good luck,Kay

[zchael6]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

If the timing marks all line up then it should be correct, as long as you've used the correct timing marks.

Check your tension is correct, remove the oil filler cap and look inside to see the cam lobes on #1 cylinder. They should form a sort of V shape, pointing upwards. If so, that is compression on #1, you should be goo to test start it at that point if everything else is in place.

After 600 miles, retension the belt - slacken the tensioner, reset the tension and retighten the tensioner. This is what was referred to when arctan said retorque it after 600 miles.

Thanks for the reply. I can only get the v of the cam to point to the side, towards me, rather than up when the dot is aligned to the back plastic. With the belt on with the dots all lined up it won’t crank. I wonder if I have disturbed something electric

[bob12]

Originally Posted by mocambique-amazone

Some did learn it the hard way:

B200F seems to be interference engines

B2x4 are for 100% interference

B2xyK and B2xyH are interference too

Good luck,Kay

That's the first time I have ever seen that the B200F is an interference engine. Where did you get that info from?

Bob