Inner track rod ends?

[sholtby]

I didnt realise until today that these were replaceable on an 850. I thought they were part of the steering rack. ECP sells them in 2 sized 14mm and 16mm. Anyone know what size I need and any tips on fitting them?

Thanks
Simon

Hi

I am also surprised.

What makes you think you need to replace them - how do I tell if they are worn and not the outer tie-rod ends?

Matt

[sholtby]

Matt,

My car has been wandering and I've checked all the other ball joints and bushes and they seem OK. When I jack the car up,get someone to hold the steering wheel firm, hold the road wheel at 3 and 9 o'clock and check for play there is a knocking sound comming from what I thought was the steering rack. There is only a knocking when I check for play on the drivers side wheel so I am assuming that joint is faulty. As always I'll replace both sided though.

Simon

Simon

This is a link to a replacement rack, but it just shows two tie-rod ends.

http://www.thevolvosite.com/shop/cat...ring_rack1.jpg

This is a link to the inner tie-rods, I assume they attach to the steering rack.

http://63.150.115.104/commercegatewa...s/3546266A.jpg

This supplier only lists one size, maybe a dealer would have the correct requirements.

I am keen to find out what is involved in replacing them as my garage said it is probably the rack and struts that need replacing for the MOT. My car also wanders despite having had the front end aligned.

Matt

[sholtby]

Matt,

Thanks for the pics! Your second pic is I I think the inner tie rod end and also the tie rod itself. Its the same think I hope. Refering to your first pic it mounts on the end of the piston within the rack and is mostly hidden by the rubber gaiter.
I've just ordered a pair from GSF for about £30 inc. They were just described as '850 tie rods' and £12 ex vat. ECP sells 'inner tie rod ends' for £20 ex vat and FCP Groton also has them listed as 'inner tie rod ends' for $18. I think all 3 refer to the same thing so I went for GSF as they were cheapest.
If you like wait until mine arrive and I'll confirm they are OK. I hope to fit them this weekend if they arrive by then and also if I can stand the cold in the garage. Again I'll give you some tips on fitting. They are supposed to be difficult to unscrew from the rack as they are tight and also because there is nothing on the piston they screw in to get a spanner on to. The only method I can think of is to use a pipe wrench (Stilsens) but not if it scores the piston and causes the rack to leak.
If you look at this link..

http://www.saabtuning.cz/volvo/dily1.htm

..at the very bottom of the page is a diagram of the steering parts.

Regards
Simon

[sholtby]

Matt,

I've just removed an inner tie rod and there was bu&*er all wrong with it. It came off easy, just removed the the track rod end pulled the gaiter off and a set of grips undid it OK. I feel a bit silly not doing this before ordering the new ones but they were 'only' £30 so no great loss. As I have ordered a new set of poly wishbone bushes I hope they fix my problem.

Simon

[David 850 GLT]

If you turn the steering wheel to about half-lock you can clamp your hand on the (inner, large) gaiter and feel the ball joint inside. With the full weight of the car on the ground, get a helper to gently turn (oscillate) the steering wheel from side to side and you'll feel any play through the gaiter.

A further check is to remove the nut and break the taper on the outer ball joint (track rod end) and see whether the track rod drops under its own weight. If it stays where you put it or drops slowly and/or a little, the inner ball joint is probably OK. If it drops quickly and all the way, it's time to renew.

Best way to unscrew track rods is with the whole rack assy removed and on the bench. Don't do it on-car as you're putting a twisting force on the rack which it wasn't designed for. Turn the steering to full lock and the inner rack will be exposed which you grip in a vice using fibre jaw protectors. Pipe wrench or Stillsons on the ball joint are fine, just wipe any swarf away. Turn to opposite lock and repeat for the other end.

After "torquing" each new joint with the Stillsons, you MUST replicate the original (joint to inner rack) locking method. I've not done this job on a Volvo but it's usually either "stake" or "drill and pin". From the photo it looks like the latter. What locking method did you observe prior to removal?

Apologies for the long post but these joints do come off quite easily and vibration has been known to loosen them, when positive locking was not done, followed by disconnection of track rod whilst driving.

followed by disconnection of
>track rod whilst driving.

Thanks, I appreciate the information. Considering the removal and refit of the inner track-rod ends I think I am going to have to go to the garage.

Matt

[sholtby]

Just to update I replaced one of my tie rods. GSF part number is V43750 @£12.75 +vat. I did order 2 but they only sent one!
To be honest the ones on my car were OK. As was said earlier one of the joints was still quite stiff and the other was looser but still had no play when I removed it.
The handling on my car is now much improved due to fitting new poly control arm bushes. There is still a very slight wandering but I'm putting that down to my tyres being quite worn as they have done 17k miles.
Something else I did but I dont know if it made any difference in itself was to remove the steering wheel and refit it a 1/4 turn clockwise. I then retracked the car with the steering centered (I've got my own tracking gauges). My thought being that when I drive in a straight line the steering rack would be in a different position and away from an area that may be worn.

Simon

[Chris_Rogers]

Now the track rods will be of unequal lengths and the toes out on turns will be wrong.

If there is wear/slack you should adjust the preload on the pinion gear.