Xc70 D5 2005 slow start only when cold

[OWF]

Hi there,

I have had my 2005 D5 Xc70 for just over a year now and have noticed on the first start up when it is colder outside it is slow to start and sometimes takes 2/3 attempts waiting for the glow plugs to go out each time.

Once it has been started I have no trouble starting for the second time even if it has been run for only a few minutes and not even up to temperature. In the summer or when warmer the first start is much better and is no problem at all.

I have looked to see if any injectors are faulty as I have seen a lot of starting problems being related to this however after completing a leak back test yesterday I don't think the injectors are the problem, as they all returned the same amount and were under the 40ml Volvo recommends.

I am now thinking it could be glow plug related as the glow plug light on the dash can take around 6-10 seconds to go out, and even when trying to start on the second attempt the light takes just as long as the first time which seems unusual?

I pulled 3 out of the 5 most accessible glow plug leads out (Cylinder 1 / 2 / 5) to see if on a cold start it would make a difference, but it started within the same amount of time as I have been experiencing. I may have been unlucky though with this test and left the only working glow plugs in..

I would like to get some other opinions on this if possible as although the warmer weather is hopefully coming it would great to get this resolved.

Thanks,

Ollie

[gammakeith]

I had similar symptoms. Turned out to be the battery that was below par and not delivering enough CCA. Might be worth getting that checked?

Keith

[Leyburn]

With common rail, glowplugs should not be needed above 0'C, possibly lower, although there might be some initial coughing and spluttering.

[OWF]

Originally Posted by gammakeith

I had similar symptoms. Turned out to be the battery that was below par and not delivering enough CCA. Might be worth getting that checked?

Keith

Thanks for this suggestion Keith.. I will get the battery checked out, as that does sound like it could be a potential cause.

[OWF]

Originally Posted by Leyburn

With common rail, glowplugs should not be needed above 0'C, possibly lower, although there might be some initial coughing and spluttering.

I have since seen some posts also stating similar about the glow plugs, so I'm starting to think it may not be glow plug related. But I don't think they have been changed from new and its currently on 178000.

Is it normal when attempting to start for the second time that the glow plug light takes just as long to go out, I would have thought it would be quicker due to already being heated once.

Thanks

[Leyburn]

Originally Posted by OWF

I have since seen some posts also stating similar about the glow plugs, so I'm starting to think it may not be glow plug related. But I don't think they have been changed from new and its currently on 178000.

Is it normal when attempting to start for the second time that the glow plug light takes just as long to go out, I would have thought it would be quicker due to already being heated once.

Thanks

My last three diesels have been common rail, I've got out of the habit of looking for the glowplug lamp: key in "ignition" and turn. Having said that, my 185 D5 has never been the snappiest starter over the last 80k plus miles, irrespective of ambient temperature.

During the coldest of the recent cold spell it was noticeably slower to turn over, however the battery is of unknown make, age or condition.

[Brendan W]

As far as I know these cars are smart enough to throw a code if a plug fails.
It is a simple matter to disconnect them and check the resistance between the terminal and the engine block. There have been a fair number of false Eurekas when failed plugs are discovered and incorrectly blamed for poor cold starting which the owners then found out the hard way, becoming plug extraction gurus en-route.
The battery in my car is original, fifteen years, and is past it's best.
Inside the last year the number of compressions to start has increased from two to five or six on a cold morning.
I put it down to low crank speed and hence rail pressure.
I would only suspect plugs after the elimination of crank speed and injector leak.

[Stephen2015]

Defo need a good battery, engine needs to crank over 200rmp for the fuel to be deliver to injectors.

My battery was getting slow, new battery from Volvo £90 ish starts straight away having good cranking speed.

[OWF]

Originally Posted by Brendan W

As far as I know these cars are smart enough to throw a code if a plug fails.
It is a simple matter to disconnect them and check the resistance between the terminal and the engine block. There have been a fair number of false Eurekas when failed plugs are discovered and incorrectly blamed for poor cold starting which the owners then found out the hard way, becoming plug extraction gurus en-route.
The battery in my car is original, fifteen years, and is past it's best.
Inside the last year the number of compressions to start has increased from two to five or six on a cold morning.
I put it down to low crank speed and hence rail pressure.
I would only suspect plugs after the elimination of crank speed and injector leak.

I got a multimeter today to test the battery and the glow plugs.. The battery came back with a reading of 12.59 / 12.58 which I believe is just under the threshold for a good condition battery.

I did the glow plugs as well using the front positive terminal (I assume this is just as good as using the battery in the back). Using the front positive terminal and a part of the engine as ground, I found it gave a higher reading than the battery of 12.66 / 12.61 which is a little odd?

Each glow plug then gave a reading well under the 12.66 / 12.61 reading.

Plug 1 - 6.18
Plug 2 - 0.13
Plug 3 - 10.86
Plug 4 - 0.20
Plug 5 - 0.85

I don't have a code scanner to see if it has given any codes for the glow plugs but I guess they should be replaced from this test.

[OWF]

Originally Posted by Stephen2015

Defo need a good battery, engine needs to crank over 200rmp for the fuel to be deliver to injectors.

My battery was getting slow, new battery from Volvo £90 ish starts straight away having good cranking speed.

I think a new battery would be a good idea, I don't know when it was last replaced or if at all so hopefully this should make a difference.

Thanks