240 General: - Cleaning IAC Valve

YogaBone · Jan 14th, 2016, 16:16

1978 245
Hey Guys, I'm going to pull and clean the IAC valve in my 245 this weekend and thought I would see about a couple pointers from the committee. So far from what I've picked up, check hoses. Carb cleaner on the ports and a drop of engine oil inside is the thing to do. clean and straighten 12v connection. reconnect

My plan to test:when idling high, clamp one hose and look for lower idle. if it lowers the valve is sticking.. Being of the older breed I understand taking it apart is also a possibility tho i am weary of going there.

I believe the IAC to be intermittently working as it perform normally after a warm up, shut off and restart. On cold start it will idle high no matter the distance or duration.

First time working on this and it seems straightforward...however.

Any advice is appreciated-thanks in advance.

classicswede · Jan 14th, 2016, 16:50

Not sure what type of valve you have but the cars with fuel injection of that age use a valve that is just a metallic strip and is effected only by temperature and just allows more air through when cold.

Photos of what you have would help

YogaBone · Jan 16th, 2016, 15:17

I believe it to be what you describe. once disconnected I could see the metal sleeve was partially open. it looks like the wide flat portion that holds the metal sleeve has a bolt for disassembly. a drop of engine oil to loosen it up? It seems it gets stuck and won't close or will only partially close on cold start. after a short drive, stop and restart it works as it should.

Thanks for the help-

YogaBone · Jan 17th, 2016, 20:39

update on this, I pulled the valve and cleaned it out. it seems to be working-the only question mark now is the small adjustment screw. its a threading that comes up through the flat round blade housing, on it is a nut and washer. I guess it has to be tightened to the perfect sweet spot to allow the valve to open and close, not too loose biut not too tight-the thing is that the actual threaded post has give. meaning I can push it towards the out side of the valve or towards the inside (towards the column). it is a slight move but does cause a drastic change in idle rpm. everything feels perfect right now ..but I don't know enough about this thing-I'll know of it's working on next cold start I suppose.

any pointers are appreciated.

this is the part number:
0 280 140 106

Jan 14th, 2016, 16:16	#1
YogaBone Junior Member Last Online: Apr 26th, 2020 13:08 Join Date: Apr 2015 Location: Toronto	Cleaning IAC Valve 1978 245 Hey Guys, I'm going to pull and clean the IAC valve in my 245 this weekend and thought I would see about a couple pointers from the committee. So far from what I've picked up, check hoses. Carb cleaner on the ports and a drop of engine oil inside is the thing to do. clean and straighten 12v connection. reconnect My plan to test:when idling high, clamp one hose and look for lower idle. if it lowers the valve is sticking.. Being of the older breed I understand taking it apart is also a possibility tho i am weary of going there. I believe the IAC to be intermittently working as it perform normally after a warm up, shut off and restart. On cold start it will idle high no matter the distance or duration. First time working on this and it seems straightforward...however. Any advice is appreciated-thanks in advance.

Jan 14th, 2016, 16:50	#2
classicswede Trader Volvo in my veins Last Online: Yesterday 20:09 Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Anglesey	Not sure what type of valve you have but the cars with fuel injection of that age use a valve that is just a metallic strip and is effected only by temperature and just allows more air through when cold. Photos of what you have would help __________________ http://www.classicswede.org www.classicswede.co.uk

Jan 17th, 2016, 20:39	#4
YogaBone Junior Member Last Online: Apr 26th, 2020 13:08 Join Date: Apr 2015 Location: Toronto	update on this, I pulled the valve and cleaned it out. it seems to be working-the only question mark now is the small adjustment screw. its a threading that comes up through the flat round blade housing, on it is a nut and washer. I guess it has to be tightened to the perfect sweet spot to allow the valve to open and close, not too loose biut not too tight-the thing is that the actual threaded post has give. meaning I can push it towards the out side of the valve or towards the inside (towards the column). it is a slight move but does cause a drastic change in idle rpm. everything feels perfect right now ..but I don't know enough about this thing-I'll know of it's working on next cold start I suppose. any pointers are appreciated. this is the part number: 0 280 140 106

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