Heater matrix

[klunk]

Heater matrix comes out the passenger side, The job is easy, I used brake hose clamps on the heater pipes, Replace the o rings as advised, Open up a big black bin liner and place it under the matrix pipes to catch the coolant, Jobs a good un.

[brickman]

As said, rhd = left footwell.
One of the easiest heater matrix I've ever done! (helped a mate with an audi that requires the windscreen to be remove to get to it, insane).

Tips.... Drain coolant from rad, and from block, flush and discard first if its manky, keep it if its all good. Tbh would takr the opportunity to flush it proper.

Once drained, get a thick black bin bag, cut it half open to make a big pool area in the footwell, duct tape it to the carpets and flick it under the matrix. Take vanity flap off side of footwell (t25 iirc), remove matrix, careful, lots of plastic things in there!

Replace, use behr or nissens, both well under £50 and are of the thicker type. There is a thinner one for hot country markets (not for the uk unless you like being dissatisfied with the heat, all volvos I've had have always had very good heating ability!). Behr and nissen and volvo blue box come with o rings.

Clean the ports with a brillo and remove any flakey old mank. Reassemble!

Car self bleeds the heater system easily.

If your footwell carpets are dirty or have coolant on them x they are very easy to remove. The front two wells and the rear carpets are three separate items. Easy to remove, and clean off the car, dry and then return.

I usually take them all out every other year, vacuum, blast with compressed air, vacuum again, then pressure wash, alternate with cleaner, then rinse out and let it dry. Even after 2 years the filth is unreal.

[Luxobarge]

Originally Posted by brickman

Car self bleeds the heater system easily.

It does, but i find that every time after the first heat cycle the level drops a lot in the expansion tank, so just top it up after the first run and after the second and subsequent heat cycles it will be pretty much there.

This has happened every time I've done mine (i.e. several times) and appears to be normal behaviour.

Agree with everything else said above, I did mine a while back and it was absolutely no drama at all, just a bit uncomfortable getting under there.

[paulcas]

I use Nissens. Good luck and have some old towels and a black sack at the ready just in case!!

[sdg1970]

Personally if they've not been done, I would change the hoses too. When they let go, the problems are more immediate than a leaking matrix. K-Seal fixed my matrix and I ain't touching it, unless it's broke..

[CNGBiFuel]

Originally Posted by sdg1970

Personally if they've not been done, I would change the hoses too. When they let go, the problems are more immediate than a leaking matrix. K-Seal fixed my matrix and I ain't touching it, unless it's broke..

Mine was OK, but word is they go, and mine's a keeper, so shoved a PFV offering on there anyway. Cost me £30 about 4-5 years back. A very lazy two hour's work, suspect would be done in 45 mins if I tired. Keep on eye on fluid levels.

[sdg1970]

Originally Posted by CNGBiFuel

Mine was OK, but word is they go, and mine's a keeper, so shoved a PFV offering on there anyway. Cost me £30 about 4-5 years back. A very lazy two hour's work, suspect would be done in 45 mins if I tired. Keep on eye on fluid levels.

I have a PFV cheapie on the shelf, but until the original one starts leaking again I ain't gonna touch it. Mine isn't really a keeper tbh - probably another 2 years tops and then off she goes.