|
700/900 Series General Forum for the Volvo 740, 760, 780, 940, 960 & S/V90 cars |
Information |
|
timing belt failureViews : 1860 Replies : 35Users Viewing This Thread : |
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
Sep 18th, 2021, 10:46 | #21 | |
Premier Member
Last Online: Today 09:36
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Lakenheath
|
Quote:
I would think the original belt would have been changed at 48k mile service. That suggests the second new belt was fitted at 107k according to your records. I wonder if it was retensioned after 600 miles as it should be? When retensioning, the engine must be at TDC on #1 (timed position), remove the rubber bung/grommet from the front face of the upper timing cover and with a socket on an extension bar, slacken the timing tensioner locknut. Allow the tensioner spring to tighten the belt then tighten the locknut again. The upper cover can be removed to do this but it's easier to just use the rubber bung. In terms of belt life, it varies a lot from engine to engine and if things like retensioning (if specified) aren't done then it can shorten the life of the belt. I don't know what you were told about the timing belt interval on the Golf but it's 40k miles, VW dropped it to that from 90000km (56k miles) and issued a Technical Bulletin to that effect : https://www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/p...ex.htm?t=58972 Continental are still showing 90000km for the Golf IV, presumably they haven't seen the VAG TB on the subject! https://www.continental-industry.com...-intervals.pdf That aside, i would work on replacement at 40k miles or 4 years on your Volvo, whichever comes sooner rather than waiting for it to break again. For the cost of the belt, it would pay for itself in peace of mind if nothing else! My Rover is only on its second timing belt, the first one was changed at 96k as per the service schedule but also because the water pump started leaking (which it's designed to do at ~120k miles on that engine) so by rights, it's now overdue on a time basis but well within the mileage criteria having only done 18k on the new belt. My Volvo has never seen a timing belt in its life, nor will it. Checking the correct TB intervals and occasional inspection of the belt will help to prevent another breakdown in the future, just because a previous belt outlasted expectations doesn't mean to say the new one will, the recommendations are there for a reason!
__________________
Cheers Dave Next Door to Top-Gun with a Honda CR-V & S Type Jag Volvo gone but not forgotten........ |
|
The Following User Says Thank You to Laird Scooby For This Useful Post: |
Sep 18th, 2021, 11:15 | #22 |
Member
Last Online: Apr 18th, 2024 18:57
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: amersham
|
Wow! thanks Dave, you don't arf know a lot of stuff!
I checked the reg doc v5c ...18th sept '92 registered. I saw that 600ml re-tension advice in a tutorial I found. Made me wonder if it had been done, or is ever done unless a vehicle is serviced at a Volvo agent. I've had to buy my parts from eBay, my usual suppliers said they couldn't get them or, they couldn't get them for days. My nearest Volvo dealership had nobody working on Friday in "parts". I've still got to wait for parts till next week but a lot less money than my usual suppliers. At least it gives my poor old body a chance to recover a bit. Kind regards Ken. |
The Following User Says Thank You to volvulus For This Useful Post: |
Sep 18th, 2021, 11:37 | #23 | |
Premier Member
Last Online: Today 09:36
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Lakenheath
|
Quote:
Something that should have been asked before, does your cam pulley have square or round teeth? Have you ordered the correct belt for the type of teeth? I believe it was around 1992 they changed so well worth checking! I know the feeling about letting your body recover, i suspect i'm a bit younger than you but thanks to life taking a heavy toll struggle to do in one day what i could easily have done in an hour a few years back. Use the time to rest and gather your thoughts and tools to do the job. A little tip to remove the crank pulley bolt if you can't use the methods already suggested is put the correct sized socket on a 2' breaker bar and fit it on the crank pulley with the bar pointing towards the left hand side of the car with the end close to the ground. "Flick" the starter on the key, in other words turn briefly to position 3/start and release as soon as the engine starts to move. That is usually enough to shock the pulley bolt free as the breaker bar hits the deck.
__________________
Cheers Dave Next Door to Top-Gun with a Honda CR-V & S Type Jag Volvo gone but not forgotten........ |
|
The Following User Says Thank You to Laird Scooby For This Useful Post: |
Sep 18th, 2021, 17:23 | #24 |
Torquemeister
Last Online: Yesterday 15:06
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Asgard, Cheshire
|
PM sent re Crankshaft locking tool.
__________________
loki_the_glt - Skipper of the Exxon Valdez, driver of Sweden's finest sporting saloon - and pining for another Slant-4. |
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to loki_the_glt For This Useful Post: |
Sep 22nd, 2021, 13:13 | #25 | |
Member
Last Online: Apr 18th, 2024 18:57
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: amersham
|
follow up
Quote:
Number 3 cylinder has zero pressure on the pressure test after the belt fitted. At first I think I was a tooth out.( It's easy to do, the marks are not exact) It ran really bad and noisy till I re timed the belt, It runs much better now but, there is a knocking noise; like a really noisy tappet makes. So it's head off and, replace the damaged parts or....head off to a dealer to buy a replacement car. By the time I've done that and sold on my tank I could have repaired her. Thanks for all the helpful replies, much appreciated. Ken |
|
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to volvulus For This Useful Post: |
Sep 22nd, 2021, 13:28 | #26 | |
Premier Member
Last Online: Today 09:36
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Lakenheath
|
Quote:
__________________
Cheers Dave Next Door to Top-Gun with a Honda CR-V & S Type Jag Volvo gone but not forgotten........ |
|
The Following User Says Thank You to Laird Scooby For This Useful Post: |
Sep 22nd, 2021, 13:44 | #27 | |
Member
Last Online: Apr 18th, 2024 18:57
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: amersham
|
Quote:
I'm confused as to how or why the new valves would be shimmed but, when I've dismantled the head I expect it will become clear. Regards ken |
|
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to volvulus For This Useful Post: |
Sep 22nd, 2021, 13:52 | #28 |
Premier Member
Last Online: Today 09:36
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Lakenheath
|
The valves are shimmed to set the clearance correctly. Different shim thicknesses are available to achieve this. Make sure when you dismantle the head you keep the shims numbered with their associated valves so they go back in the right places. Also if you're going to lap the rest of the valves in (would be a wise choice), check the clearances after doing that rather than before.
__________________
Cheers Dave Next Door to Top-Gun with a Honda CR-V & S Type Jag Volvo gone but not forgotten........ |
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Laird Scooby For This Useful Post: |
Sep 24th, 2021, 11:00 | #29 |
Senior Member
Last Online: Aug 30th, 2023 18:22
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Fordingbridge
|
Ken - Luke will have my B200F engine in a week or so to do an engine swap. It's dead due to head gasket failure & block corrosion but the pistons, valves, crank, etc should be all good. I sourced a replacement engine which Luke has reconditioned for me so if there are any bits from mine which can help yours live that would be a good outcome. My car is the same year as yours so should be a straight swap.
__________________
'93MY Volvo 940SE 2l Petrol Manual non-a/c "Valhallarama" |
The Following 4 Users Say Thank You to kiloran For This Useful Post: |
Sep 30th, 2021, 10:50 | #30 | |
Member
Last Online: Apr 18th, 2024 18:57
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: amersham
|
Quote:
I spoke to Luke about parts which Dave said luke might have, he only has used parts. He told me he will have your engine soon Kiloran. If there is anything I will require from it to let him know. ( Thanks both) Luke gave me an excellent tip (hope I'm not giving away his trade secrets) for removing/replacing the valve collets. As follows.... large G clamp and a Lambda socket with a magnetised screwdriver or the like to catch/put them in position. Regards Ken |
|
The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to volvulus For This Useful Post: |
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests) | |
|
|