Sealing my 131 floor advice please

[jamie]

Hi
I have cleaned up and stripped the floor of my 131 and was going to red oxide from Rustoleum; fill the places with seam sealant where I have removed it, and then top it with a green as close as possible to my original green also from Rustoleum. It wont be seen under the carpet so I thought it was not so important if it wasn't the original colour, but close.
Has anyone any advice as to how I should proceed or does my way forward appear reasonable. Sorry I have no experience so am just following what I can find in the local shops
Can't wait to get the sound deadening, insulation, firewall, MLV and carpet in, followed by the seats and then I can drive her again. For those interested I will load the results of being tuned on a rolling road. I don't know what the graph means but I am sure some of you will, in fact I will do it now while I remember!!
Thank you in advance
Jamie

[Burdekin]

Mechanically remove the paint and rust with these: http://www.screwfix.com/p/non-woven-...el-115mm/83915 sand blasting is best but messy.

As you have rust pitting then use Bilt Hamber Deox Gel to get rid of all the rust in the pits.

For the paint just use an epoxy mastic, Rust Buster 121 is Jotun but comes in smaller quantities: http://www.rust.co.uk/em-121-epoxy-r...-paint/c28117/ if you're going to do more areas then probably worth getting some Jotun Jotamastic 87 https://www.smlmarinepaints.co.uk/pr.../jotamastic-87 thin it a bit and you can use the mini foam rollers to apply and get a really nice finish.

[Mike Rains]

That floor doesn't look too bad to me. I think Rustoleum Red Metal Primer is pretty good stuff to stop light rust from progressing. But I would use the brush on versus spray; think you get the better stuff into the metal by brushing. Just an opinion.

My floors had a few rusted out spots and after cleaning up, I fiberglassed the holes with epoxy and glass. Not the typical metal repair, but I'm confident they will not reappear in my lifetime.

With new materials out there: poly caulks, epoxies, primers, etc., there are many creative ways to skin a remodel cat.

[Faust]

Your floor looks pretty good to me.

What I did with my 133 after removing the old loose paint, rust particles and muck:

Gave it a good degrease with POR Marine clean and let it dry

Applied Bilt Hamber Hydrate 80 to any surface rust patches (ended up giving the whole floorpan a coat as it goes a nice black ready for paint

Gave the floor 2 coats of POR15 in black (to match the car)

Nice level of protection which will hopefully last for many years.

[Bigbunt]

Yeah, I used the POR-15 and painted Rustoleum Regal Red to get close to my exterior color and promptly covered it all up! It sealed up really well and I feel like it's the best way to make your floor almost impervious...

[Burdekin]

Please don't use POR15, after a couple of years it will just peel off. POR15 is rubbish in my opinion. 2k epoxies like Jotun are just so much better and the best stuff out there. They are virtually water proof unlike other 1k paints and bond considerably better as well. Do it once and do it properly.

[Bigbunt]

To each their own, but from my limited experience if you do what they tell you to the only way you'll get POR-15 off is with a grinder! Setting gets kicked off by moisture, unlike epoxy, so you need to be aware of that but many people stateside have used it for many years with great success. But consider the source, I'm just a newbie...

[Burdekin]

Originally Posted by Bigbunt

To each their own, but from my limited experience if you do what they tell you to the only way you'll get POR-15 off is with a grinder! Setting gets kicked off by moisture, unlike epoxy, so you need to be aware of that but many people stateside have used it for many years with great success. But consider the source, I'm just a newbie...

Yep been there, did some testing before using it and seemed great. But after a couple of years it peels off in big sheets and comes off with little effort. Plenty of folk in the US and here have had the same experience so it's not just me. And I applied it exactly as instructed.

2k epoxy mastic will offer the best long term solution, is cheaper and easily over-paintable with pretty much anything you fancy.

[Bigbunt]

Well, all I can say is I hope mine sticks! I actually didn't cover the whole floor, just the messy bits, but it would be a drag if it came up...I also used it in my gas tank and that would suck to have that fail.
Anyway, when I don't have to work for a living, the plan is to brush up on my welding skills and do all patching with steel and get a real paint job. For right now, I'm just enjoying the hell out my new bushings and springs!

[jamie]

Originally Posted by Khe Sanh

Yep been there, did some testing before using it and seemed great. But after a couple of years it peels off in big sheets and comes off with little effort. Plenty of folk in the US and here have had the same experience so it's not just me. And I applied it exactly as instructed.

2k epoxy mastic will offer the best long term solution, is cheaper and easily over-paintable with pretty much anything you fancy.

I used POR15 and followed the instructions to the letter, now 5 years later it is peeling or breaking out in rust. This was the chassis of our static caravan, admittedly parked 200 yards from the sea. So that is another job to do this summer. I will apply your advice this time, Mitch, and report back in 5 years!!