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Timing belt tensioner.

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Old Sep 18th, 2021, 14:51   #1
SeeSeventy
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Default Timing belt tensioner.

Anyone familiar with the T5 engine able to help me out?

2007 C70. Used the locking tool on the back and in the block. New tensioner and belt. When installing I rotated the 6mm hex right at 20⁰C and got it tightened to 24nm on the locking nut and indicator in the centre.

In my haste I'd removed the rear cam locking tools and walked away for a week waiting on parts and on auto pilot cam back and put the dust covers back on the cam shafts at 35nm wondering why I'd forgotten. Problem is the exhaust side moved forward as expected and undid the tension on the belt. I moved it straight back thinking what an idiot not checking, but the tension returned to the belt. Popped the cam tools back and all seemed in order though didn't out excessive torque on the bolt that brings them together.

I've turned the engine over by hand 20 times for fun and to check, all seems fine and no restrictions are felt... but I've noticed the tensioner now sat further back on the indicator. See pic. This doesn't seem right to me though I'm not sure.

So, as the engine is all back together can I readjust the tensioner WITHOUT the rear cam locking tool IF I have the crank set inline with the pump and then put one of those locking plastic cam locker tools on the front sprockets? Or am I dismantling the engine again to lock it off "properly". I know this is the right way to do it but time is of the essence and I'm way behind getting this car moved under its own steam and waiting on parts from Sweden like the rear rubber hammer in cam covers is somewhat annoying.

Would prefer experienced replies on this particular engine if you wouldn't mind. Especially if you service T5/ST engines regularly
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Old Sep 18th, 2021, 23:35   #2
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You dont need to use cam locking tools on that engine (or any of the Volvo 5 pots) unless you are removing the cam sprockets.

If the engine is cold, tensioner should sit in the 11ocock position.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Emsa-w-n93s

Go to 6min 15 seconds of the above video link which explains the tensioner settings on these volvo 5 pot engines.
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Old Sep 19th, 2021, 08:44   #3
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Thanks for that. I'd used the cam lockers before as the engine required complete cam set up and replacement of seals.

I've actually seen that YT video and this is where the hesitancy comes in from me, P80 cars I've always rotated the tensioner hex left and tightened at the middle. This one is asking to go right and tighten on VIDA and some YT videos.

I had access to a VIDA computer and unlike previous generations the instructions are somewhat basic in comparison to P80 generation etc. The part on the tensioner seems to suggest that 11 o clock is down to -20⁰C. Middle (12) is 20⁰c. Which is where I put it... Then doing as above it's moved.

I also watched FCP on this tutorial and mentions ambient temperature for the middle. https://youtu.be/Y4We7wbtwbI at about 57 minutes in. The average temperature around me at the moment is 21⁰c when the sun's out. Let me see if I can get a picture of the VIDA page today or something and upload.
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Old Sep 19th, 2021, 17:36   #4
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After a day of faffing I managed to get it back in centre and didn't move when I turned over by hand.

As you can see in the pics from VIDA and the readjusted tensioner, all seems well.

Appreciate the response.
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Old Sep 19th, 2021, 17:43   #5
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And.......
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Old Sep 19th, 2021, 18:28   #6
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The D5 tensioner is anti clockwise only and on genuine Volvo tensioners at least, that is signified by an anti clockwise arrow stamped onto the tensioner plate containing the 6mm hex.

Vida is definitive yours is clockwise but out of interest, is there a similar directional arrow on your tensioner for your engine?
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Old Sep 21st, 2021, 10:20   #7
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There appears to be nothing to indicate anywhere. Which is why I thought it was odd at first.

I remember the INA tensioners used to have instructions indicating the right way but this is a genuine Volvo part like for like what was on there and it was just in the yellow bag inside the box.

Either way I've got a no start and slow cranking now. May have washed the bores or its low compression. Maybe the starter is iffy. Or the timing is out. The latter wouldn't make much sense.
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