General: Common S60 Problems - Solutions Only

[zx6rman_uk]

My S60 was really noisy inside the car,, could hear lots of noise from the turbo etc.

I read on the forums somewhere that the 'boot' that covers the steering colum can come adrift.

I took a look and the boot was still in place but the bearing that sealed it to the steering colum had come out of position.

I will be honest I really didnt think that this coming out of position would of made any difference, but now ive put it back to where it should be the difference is unbelievable,, no noise inside the car anyomre, its brilliant.

So if you think the turbo is hissing or got louder recently etc take alook at this bearing first.

[Miscreant]

Originally Posted by veitchy64

How easy was it to get to the "boot"? and where was it located, cant get the car booked in for two weeks so will have to attack it myself!

The "boot" is at the bottom of the steering column and is relatively easy to get to. Push the driver's seat all the way back and raise the steering wheel to its topmost position. You should then be able to get to the boot in question. I have had to do this several times in the last few months and it never seems to last more than about 2 or 3 weeks.
Does anyone know how to permanently fix this or at least fix it so that it only needs to be done 2 or 3 times a year instead?

[Miscreant]

The boot in question is on the floor behind the pedals at the end of the steering column. It is a black rubber boot that covers a bearing. Sometimes this moves down over the bearing and starts to make a groaning, rubbing sound when you are turning the steering wheel.

[smssms]

Loss of power
Smoke on acceleration
Hissing noise from engine on acceleration
Oil on/under the radiator

All add up to a SPILT INTERCOOLER

Solution = replace!

Lots of posts on here with how to replace it.

[Nocomplaints1977]

Originally Posted by y2blade

I don't like the 5 min delay on the Fuel filler cap....I have fitted a proper one to mine

Go to dealer and get them to remove the delay. MRG did mine .
It can be set to zero.

[Georgey dee]

D5 lumps

Car takes ages to start in the cold weather or fails to start altogether??

One or more of your injectors are leaking.

Unclip the soft/rubber return pipes from on top of each of the injectors and pipe them off into 5 seperate containers. Halfords do a kit for this.

If one of the containers starts to fill up rapidly (much more than the others) then that injector is shot!

If the car won't start in very cold weather then a quick way to get it started is to take off the engine cover and poor boiling hot water directly on to the injectors to warm them up. The car should then start.

Worked for me for two weeks until I had the number 2 injector replaced.

[D4nny392]

Had this dreaded error on my 2002 S60 D5, here are some tips applied for fixing mine.
1, disconnect battery
2, remove driver's airbag and check the continuity and resistance on the steering wheel squib module. I found that on full lock to the right, the resistance went allover the place on mine.
3, if applicable, disconnect the connector on the driver's seat, locate both ends of the loom and again, check continuity and resistance through the circuit. The seat's movement can eventually cause the wiring to break and show high resistance.
4, Inspect the Airbag Control Module located in the centre console. Access by removing the trim pieces down both sides of the tunnel, pen holder, gear stick surround, coin holder and main console. ACM is a small Bosch component with a large multi-pin connector. Unplug it, check for tarnishing on the connectors and for any signs of liquid ingress. I found mine had several dry joints inside it but I wouldn't recommend going any further if you don't know what you're doing here. I located an S60 in a scrappers in Leeds which had the same airbag setup in it and after matching the part numbers I bought the correct AEM for <£10 and the steering wheel squib for the same.
Note: VIDA will clear the faults from the system but the replacement AEM will show a comms error with the CEM. Volvo will be able to fix this for circa £100 (based on Volvo in Leeds) by running a software update on the AEM and configuring it to your vehicle's existing CEM. They did argue the toss this wouldn't work, but it did.

[cheshired5]

Originally Posted by D4nny392

Had this dreaded error on my 2002 S60 D5, here are some tips applied for fixing mine.
1, disconnect battery
2, remove driver's airbag and check the continuity and resistance on the steering wheel squib module. I found that on full lock to the right, the resistance went allover the place on mine.
3, if applicable, disconnect the connector on the driver's seat, locate both ends of the loom and again, check continuity and resistance through the circuit. The seat's movement can eventually cause the wiring to break and show high resistance.
4, Inspect the Airbag Control Module located in the centre console. Access by removing the trim pieces down both sides of the tunnel, pen holder, gear stick surround, coin holder and main console. ACM is a small Bosch component with a large multi-pin connector. Unplug it, check for tarnishing on the connectors and for any signs of liquid ingress. I found mine had several dry joints inside it but I wouldn't recommend going any further if you don't know what you're doing here. I located an S60 in a scrappers in Leeds which had the same airbag setup in it and after matching the part numbers I bought the correct AEM for <£10 and the steering wheel squib for the same.
Note: VIDA will clear the faults from the system but the replacement AEM will show a comms error with the CEM. Volvo will be able to fix this for circa £100 (based on Volvo in Leeds) by running a software update on the AEM and configuring it to your vehicle's existing CEM. They did argue the toss this wouldn't work, but it did.

Resistance testing the airbag system is a very bad idea.

[Jdsb]

Solution I found to knowing which brake pressure sensor to replace if and when the time comes, clear fault code then unplug one of the sensors, ignition on and press brake pedal, read codes again, if same bank code reads then it's the other sensor, can be confirmed by reconnecting the sensor and repeating, just this time disconnect other sensor, it should then read a fault with the other bank as well, the thing to note is the code won't read until the brake pedal is pressed

[arcingv40]

Originally Posted by Jdsb

Solution I found to knowing which brake pressure sensor to replace if and when the time comes, clear fault code then unplug one of the sensors, ignition on and press brake pedal, read codes again, if same bank code reads then it's the other sensor, can be confirmed by reconnecting the sensor and repeating, just this time disconnect other sensor, it should then read a fault with the other bank as well, the thing to note is the code won't read until the brake pedal is pressed

I came to the same troubleshooting conclusion last weekend after an intermittent error became persistent. Ordered a used pressure sensor, and of course the problem went away before the part arrived