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V50 D5 2006 - Battery drain - Fuse #43 - Audio system, RTI

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Old Jul 22nd, 2014, 00:15   #11
arisetobe
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So now I find this information:
http://www.volvopartswebstore.com/pr.../31210456.html

This means the ordinary CD drive _can_ be updated to 6CD changer.. :-(
I've already ordered a 1CD drive, because did not know that..
I hate when people behave like that - not knowing anything but saying.. :-(
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Old Jul 22nd, 2014, 01:03   #12
arisetobe
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Read tons of important info in vida today. In short - have to perform the activities again, should find the problem.. vida actually suggest to do what I've done, except I have to make sure I close the doors with remote and wait a little bit longer, as the manual says that "Note! If the vehicle has been run to operating temperature, check that the system relay has been activated. An activated system relay causes increased standby current consumption. This is normal under certain circumstances. " Does anyone know what "System relay" means? Where is it located exactly and how to turn it off? It might be that my 400mA are because of it. And btw, the normal "sleep mode" current of S40/V50 should be 25mA.

------------------------------

372: Checking standby current

Checking standby current
Fault tracing by successive elimination
During fault tracing by successive elimination, try to localise the problem by measuring the power consumption at the same time as removing one fuse at a time in the vehicle.

Procedure
Expose the integrated relay/fusebox in the engine compartment and the fuses in the Central electronic module (CEM).

Use the multimeter and check that the relays and fuses have the correct voltage, use the wiring diagram and signal tables as assistance. Measure between fuses and suitable ground terminals. If any problem is detected, troubleshoot the system in question.

Remove a fuse and read off the standby consumption according to the instructions above. If the power consumption has dropped to less than 25 mA, fault trace the system that the fuse corresponds to. if power consumption has not reduced, repeat the procedure with another fuse.

Note! Remove one fuse at a time and measure. Do not reinstall the fuses until the fault has been found, because it could awaken the car from "sleep mode " and restore the problem. If the vehicle was going to woken from "sleep mode" anyway, repeat the preparations for standby power consumption before continuing successive elimination.

If the fault has not occurred, continue with successive elimination on relays and the connectors for the vehicle's control modules.

-------------------------------

P.S. Was looking if I could program the software by myself, found the necessary software here: http://www.volvopartsdept.com/OEMPar.../30737756.html but don't know how actually it works, will write them.

P.P.S. I feel myself as a guy exposing all the secrets of the professionals to the public.. :-) Sorry, but I don't want to pay hundreds/thousands for something that I can do by myself and can do that better then the others (like the official dealer saying that I can not upgrade to 6CD changer - hate such attitude). Now I read about some special equipment and special careful procedures of investigating the problem with the car and seeing the attitude I am really in doubt that they will perform all necessary steps carefully enough instead of just "doing something" and writing a bill... :-(
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Last edited by arisetobe; Jul 22nd, 2014 at 01:29.
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Old Jul 22nd, 2014, 16:35   #13
mikester
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picking my (new to me) V50 up in a week or so, this thread makes for disturbing reading a it appears I've got a similar specced car to yours...


if you do find the cure please keep posting despite the lack of replies
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Old Jul 22nd, 2014, 17:15   #14
arisetobe
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sure I will.. :-) Everything will be fine..

Btw, the volvopartsdept have answered:
> I have chinese dice and vida installed and working ok. Can I buy software from you and install it with my tools myself?
We are sorry, software can only be purchased through the Vida software with a valid Vida subscription.
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Old Jul 23rd, 2014, 13:09   #15
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After reading about installing GROM MST3 (to be able to listen to MP3 music), I found out that there is possibility to disable "MOST security" in the car. Another thing is that this would also allow to use third-party used details without the need to download any software for them.

So I have just written to 16 local (and not so local) workstations with direct question on disabling it because of installing the GROM device.. will see what they say.. Most likely they will just say that it's just not allowed (obviously because of security reasons ), as they usually say..

I start to think they act like mafia, as they prevent me doing with my used-out-of-warranty piece of hardware (the car, which I have bought completely) whatever I want to do.
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Old Jul 23rd, 2014, 16:04   #16
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..found a very detailed description on MOST interface.. now I start to understand what these abbreviations mean..

http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthr...=1#post1421007
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Old Jul 23rd, 2014, 22:31   #17
arisetobe
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Today I have spent couple of hours to measure sleep mode current more exactly. The results are promising. When I close doors using remote, after about 2 minutes the sleep mode current becomes about 0,02A = 20mA (can't see more clearly as my voltmeter seem to be very simple, not showing values below 2nd digit after point). The question is however that when I do not close the doors using remote, they are closed automatically after about 1-2 minutes, but the sleep mode current stays at the level of 0,42A = 420mA, which is far too high. I've been waiting for about 5-7 minutes to see if it would eventually drops lower, but it did not. Don't expect that anyone here will tell me why it is happening, so will ask at Volvo workshop.

Using Vida I have successfully tested the car's alternator (there is internal test there - shows alternator voltage, emulating different battery temperatures) - it seems to be ok. Vida also checked that my car has 150A alternator, which is ok.

I have also more carefully investigated the case with radio/cd player. When everything is turned off, doors closed, this little bastard not only eats 1A constantly, but also tries to initialise CD (if there is CD in the drive) every 10-15 sec. You can even hear some initialisation sound, while sitting in the car, and the current raises to about 1,5A every time he tries to do that. However when there is no CD in the drive, it eats 0,7A constantly, and every 10-15 sec tries to drop the current to 0,3A and then raises it back to 0,7A.. So there is definitely some malfunction with the drive.

One more wonderful thing is that I have received feedback from one of 16 workshops, whom I asked to deactivate the MOST security. They said they can do that, and it will cost 56EUR, which is wonderful! The guy seem to be very smart and flexible, great that there are good people in the business!

To be continued..
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Last edited by arisetobe; Jul 23rd, 2014 at 22:33.
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Old Jul 25th, 2014, 19:18   #18
arisetobe
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Default Case solved.

Today I have received the recently ordered used CD player as well as managed to get to the workshop to turn off MOST security on the vehicle. After that I've spent an hour or so to install the CD player and:
1. It worked flawlessly and did not turn itself off automatically (which means that the MOST security was indeed turned off).
2. It turned itself off completely and did not drain any current when the vehicle was turned off (I've checked both with and without CD in the drive, in both cases the current dropped to the cherished 0.0A).

Lessons learned:
1. In order to own modern used car and don't guess what is happening with it, one should definitely have diagnostic tools. For volvo it is DICE/Vida that can be bought on Ebay (http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_tr...at=0&_from=R40
). This will definitely save your €£$ every time you would like to diagnose the state of the car - so the unit will pay off itself at the very first use. Also I have managed to setup my radio/climate display to be always in night mode - which is alone a super cool result.. ;-)

2. While working with electronics in the car, one should have other instruments:
- Multimeter (http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_od...meter&_sacat=0) - take one with 3 digits after point as you might need to measure very low current/voltage.
- Clamp meter (I've bought this one: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FC-33-80A-...item5ae08ddc82 but if I buy it again, I would probably buy this one, as it is multimeter and clamp-meter all in one: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Metrel-MD9...item48458a188a). Make sure that it can read DC current.

3. Since the measured current is really small, don't believe the clamp meter always, but use it rather for draft measurements. Always if possible double-check with multimeter (in ampere-meter mode).

4. Voltage drop method is just fine for investigating problems with electricity (some said on forums that it is not correct way - no, it is correct and it worked for me). This guy is guru in explaining how to do it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xerAp9Yd53Y

5. Once you have VIDA you will find tons of information on how to fix the car as well as the fact that you can and should remove fuses in order to find parasitic battery drain (some people here said that you should not remove fuses, but that is clearly written in the official Volvo documents, so please don't say if you are not sure).

6. At the first possibility ask your dealer to turn off MOST security (if they ask you why do you need it - tell them you want to install GROM device). This will allow you to change your parts without the need of updating software (which is in fact not a software, but registering the new device in volvo database, which is completely stupid for the 8-years old car).

7. While being at the dealer, I had some time to investigate modern Volvo cars. Did not like them.. :-( So my wonderful V50 is looking far better from outside and inside than these new super-glamour plastic toys.. But that is just imho.

Now I have to change my tires , change my high-pressure washer pump (for headlights washer to work), install GROM, install alarm, install dash cam.. but that is another story.

So, be healthy, don't cough!
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Last edited by arisetobe; Jul 25th, 2014 at 19:38.
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Old Sep 24th, 2014, 08:03   #19
numptynoidea
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arisetobe View Post
Today I have received the recently ordered used CD player as well as managed to get to the workshop to turn off MOST security on the vehicle. After that I've spent an hour or so to install the CD player and:
1. It worked flawlessly and did not turn itself off automatically (which means that the MOST security was indeed turned off).
2. It turned itself off completely and did not drain any current when the vehicle was turned off (I've checked both with and without CD in the drive, in both cases the current dropped to the cherished 0.0A).

Lessons learned:
1. In order to own modern used car and don't guess what is happening with it, one should definitely have diagnostic tools. For volvo it is DICE/Vida that can be bought on Ebay (http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_tr...at=0&_from=R40
). This will definitely save your €£$ every time you would like to diagnose the state of the car - so the unit will pay off itself at the very first use. Also I have managed to setup my radio/climate display to be always in night mode - which is alone a super cool result.. ;-)

2. While working with electronics in the car, one should have other instruments:
- Multimeter (http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_od...meter&_sacat=0) - take one with 3 digits after point as you might need to measure very low current/voltage.
- Clamp meter (I've bought this one: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FC-33-80A-...item5ae08ddc82 but if I buy it again, I would probably buy this one, as it is multimeter and clamp-meter all in one: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Metrel-MD9...item48458a188a). Make sure that it can read DC current.

3. Since the measured current is really small, don't believe the clamp meter always, but use it rather for draft measurements. Always if possible double-check with multimeter (in ampere-meter mode).

4. Voltage drop method is just fine for investigating problems with electricity (some said on forums that it is not correct way - no, it is correct and it worked for me). This guy is guru in explaining how to do it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xerAp9Yd53Y

5. Once you have VIDA you will find tons of information on how to fix the car as well as the fact that you can and should remove fuses in order to find parasitic battery drain (some people here said that you should not remove fuses, but that is clearly written in the official Volvo documents, so please don't say if you are not sure).

6. At the first possibility ask your dealer to turn off MOST security (if they ask you why do you need it - tell them you want to install GROM device). This will allow you to change your parts without the need of updating software (which is in fact not a software, but registering the new device in volvo database, which is completely stupid for the 8-years old car).

7. While being at the dealer, I had some time to investigate modern Volvo cars. Did not like them.. :-( So my wonderful V50 is looking far better from outside and inside than these new super-glamour plastic toys.. But that is just imho.

Now I have to change my tires , change my high-pressure washer pump (for headlights washer to work), install GROM, install alarm, install dash cam.. but that is another story.

So, be healthy, don't cough!
arisetobe, well done! Just found your thread (I've only been on here a month so never saw this when you were actually posting). Very useful trail of info you've posted there despite no-one really posting any replies.
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Old Nov 7th, 2016, 21:41   #20
Wiseacre
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Hi

I've got the same issue. after a couple of battery drains I finally got a multimeter and thanks to this thread focused on fuse 43 (initially thought the alarm was the culprit as the rechargeable battery is on its way out).

Seems there was a 3A drain! After removing this fuse usage drops to ~.6A, still too high but a vast improvement, I'll narrow that down another time.

So, my issue is that this fuse also powers the GPS & navigation systems and possibly the On Call Service too. I would like to have use of the stereo if possible and don't use the RTI as the GPS module hasn't worked since well before I got the car (and a phone does the job just fine).

If possible I would like to disconnect the On Call and RTI systems and hopefully this is the source of the drain - not the stereo.

can anyone recommend the best way to do so?
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