Engine: 2.3 F/Inj B23E/B230F: What makes coolant go around?

[morsing]

Well, thermostat opening and fluid expanding with the heat, I suppose, but...

I wanted to test my head gasket with a test kit which requires steam to come out of the expansion tank, but I just couldn't make it happen.

Engine was running for 45 minutes, tried to put some load on it as well, but no coolant entered the tank at any point. The radiator stayed below 20 degrees throughout.

What do I do now? Run it up and down the motorway, then un-screw the cap!

[Bob 1967]

Unless you want to be scalded, I wouldn't.
I had to check the date, not quite April 1st.
Easiest way is to check the oil filler cap for emulsion(oil and coolant mixed)

[hreg240]

Drain your coolant system and try again; I'm sure you'll get lots of steam after a few mins.

Joking aside, why do you want to test the head gasket? Have you got an issue with the gasket or cooling system? Might there be a better way to test the system, without causing steam to emit from the expansion tank - which says to me would be intentionally causing damage to the engine.

[morsing]

Originally Posted by hreg240

[...]
Joking aside, why do you want to test the head gasket?

Still battling this:

https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=320792

Originally Posted by hreg240

Might there be a better way to test the system, without causing steam to emit from the expansion tank - which says to me would be intentionally causing damage to the engine.

Better than a proper head gasket tester? Probably not.

How would that cause any damage to the system?

I know it's a bit chilly outside, but it was about 11 degrees when I was doing this. Running for 45 minutes without the thermostat opening is not really what I expected.

[hreg240]

Originally Posted by morsing

Still battling this:

https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=320792



Better than a proper head gasket tester? Probably not.

How would that cause any damage to the system?

I know it's a bit chilly outside, but it was about 11 degrees when I was doing this. Running for 45 minutes without the thermostat opening is not really what I expected.

Ah I did not know it was an ongoing problem! Let me take a look at that thread and see if I can assist.

I was under the presumption that you were trying to diagnose an unknown running issue; in which case I'd err on the side of caution when putting your engine under stress (hence my worry about damage to the system).

I had a friend's Golf (mk2) which had a dicky water pump, he strained the engine (by not fixing the fault) and killed the lump.

[Bob 1967]

I don't see the connection between your other post and this.
Why do you suspect the head gasket?
Usually when it's gone, coolant will mix with the oil and the emulsion shows up on the filler cap as a slimy gunk.
If it's a loss of compression, then a compression tester is the way to go.
But this could be worn bores/Piston rings.

The rad or hoses could be clogged, but we have no idea what the symptoms or issue is, so we are in the dark as far as solving any problems.
Squeeze the bottom and top hoses in turn (with expansion tank lid off)and see if you can feel coolant being pushed through the hoses. Often called burping the coolant.
Steam would require a temperature of 100 degrees centigrade.

[Othen]

Originally Posted by morsing

Still battling this:

https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=320792



Better than a proper head gasket tester? Probably not.

How would that cause any damage to the system?

I know it's a bit chilly outside, but it was about 11 degrees when I was doing this. Running for 45 minutes without the thermostat opening is not really what I expected.

I'm a bit confused Henrik,

In the final post of your other thread in the link you say:

Spent half an hour filing down the mushroom end on my almost-new genuine Volvo spark plug I had lying in the garage (don't know why there has to be two different kind of HT leads), and it purrs like a kitten now.

... so has the issue returned after changing the plug leads? If so it still sounds like one of the leads is the issue, so I'd suggest:

1. You measure the impedance of each of the leads seperately, if one differs significantly from the others then the issue probably lies there.
2. You swap over the lead that appears to be the problem at the distributor cap with one from another cylinder - see if the issue moves to another cylinder.

If your thermostat still has not opened after 45 minutes of running then it isn't working, so change it (they are not expensive, get a pattern part one that fits - I bought one fairly recently for £11.25 delivered). If you have an IR thermometer like this:



... use it to make sure the thermostat is behaving.

Good fortune,

A

[Bob 1967]

In the final post of your other thread in the link you say:

Spent half an hour filing down the mushroom end on my almost-new genuine Volvo spark plug I had lying in the garage (don't know why there has to be two different kind of HT leads), and it purrs like a kitten now.

Mushroom ends?
Are those the at lead ends of the plugs?
Did you try screwing them off?

[Othen]

Originally Posted by morsing

Well, thermostat opening and fluid expanding with the heat, I suppose, but...

I wanted to test my head gasket with a test kit which requires steam to come out of the expansion tank, but I just couldn't make it happen.

Engine was running for 45 minutes, tried to put some load on it as well, but no coolant entered the tank at any point. The radiator stayed below 20 degrees throughout.

What do I do now? Run it up and down the motorway, then un-screw the cap!

I'm wondering whether you are trying to use something like this to test your head gasket:



... if so it doesn't need steam at the header tank, if there is fuel or oil vapour in the coolant it will rise through the system without the water boiling so you can use it with the engine just warm enough to tick over.

[honestjoe]

Hi Henrik..sorry you are still have issues with this...It is probably unrelated and will try not to write a novel..but your symptoms are very familiar with my troubles with bertha..let me just clarify the obvious in my case..starts normal initially for a very brief time then reverts to three cylinders..either will not idle or just cut out..if i persist with throttle will clear and reinvigorate non firing cylinder to comply!!..I have had to pull over as car cuts out. Strangely when restarted car usually completes journey without further incident.The culprit cylinder is the one closest to the radiator..pulled the plug and i have to say pretty sooted..The reason i mentioned all that is because i found the symptons are inconsistant in timings...sometimes it happens sometimes it does not..Some mornings starts and runs fine..I had this happen for most of the winter last year but as the weather warmed the car ran better with it..so i forgot about it till this winter and all the problems returned..I"m convinced it"s not the head gasket because of it"s intermittent nature..Could be float level (not applicable in your case Henrik) but again its inconsistant..The only thing consist in my case was the outside air temperature.?..I just knew some mornings when the car was going to misbehave..I"m going to try and understand how the air is controlled when being supplied to the engine..I know there is a flap that opens and shuts..I think its vaccum controlled?..There may be multiple operations on start up and normal running temp..All plugs leads rotor and dizzy were changed last year..Why it would take out a cylinder i do not know? Interesting that restarting would seem to remedy this like it resets itself....Wish you well..hj...ps i"ve just seen post QUICK REPLY..oops!