Replacing Inner CV boot

pacman67 · Sep 12th, 2010, 21:08

Can anyone guide me on how difficult it is to replace the front o/s inner CV boot. I presume the whole shaft has to come out etc ?

DaveSVolvo · Sep 19th, 2010, 22:32

If no-one with direct experience is going to reply to you, I'll stick my oar in.

I have just changed an outer, rather than inner, CV joint gaiter but most of the procedure is the same. Yes, the drive shaft has to come out. I found that getting the splined shaft out of the hub was very difficult. Haynes says "tap it out" - I found that a sledge hammer wouldn't budge it! (I think I was particularly unlucky though. While others hint that it can be difficult, I can't believe it is usually that bad.)

I eventually made a "pusher" out of an old back brake disc / drum filled with a solid chunk of hardwood drilled 13mm in way of the 5 holes. The idea behind the hardwood insert was to leave the cast iron disc in compression. Screwfix sell a useful pack of 5 X 300mm M12 studs which fitted into the wheel bolt holes in the hub. A lump hammer fitted side on transferred the load from the wood block to the end of the drive shaft (initially with nut on, level with the shaft end until the shaft had been driven in far enough to bottom the nut.) A point to be aware of if you try this or a variation thereof is not to try to fully bottom the studs in the hub and keep an eye in them. If they turn with the driving nuts they are likely to jack the hub apart... If I ever do this job again I will fit a couple of lock nuts to the end of each stud and hold them while tightening the respective drive nut.

The other bit I found tricky was getting the shaft to pop out of the transmission, but that was for the near side: for the off side you'll have to take the intermediate bearing out. I haven't done this.

I found the geometry of the CV joint fascinating - it's like a metal puzzle and in cleaning it out all 6 big ball bearings and the inner runner pop out. Getting them all back in requires patience. The Volvo repair kit contains grease and new circlips, so you don't have to pay £8 for the latter...

Oh, the other bit of fun I found was disconnecting the roll bar drop link. I've just done both sides: one had decent flats at the ball joint to hold with an open spanner while undoing the nut - simple. The other didn't have flats and one nut was horribly tight. Even a mole grip couldn't hold the unflatted shaft and I had to split the nut. These things come with a small torx hole in the end which the assembly instructions tell you to use for counter-torquing. OK with a new part, but with an old rusty one no chance.

Good luck!

mattytowel · Nov 20th, 2010, 09:12

Failed MOT on split gaiter yesterday, was quoted £60 to repair. Having read Dave's post, I'll keep my hands clean this time.

Clan · Nov 20th, 2010, 10:35

yes its a filthy job , best pay someone else to do it !

darren_eire · Nov 20th, 2010, 17:31

pair of rubber gloves and a vice and its an easy job in my opinion, wheel off,jack the car up,remove the 2 bolts holding the control arm to the subframe(easier than removing the ball joint),then just pull the whole brake disc out like this,

and then tap the whole drive shaft inwards while pulling the brake disc outwards,dont hammer the threads on the shaft tho!! I ended up having to cut a few threads off mine because the nut wouldnt thread back on properly!

shamrock1959 · Jun 26th, 2011, 11:32

Great tip, I think I feel confident now

bobbych · Jun 26th, 2011, 16:32

Quote:

Originally Posted by darren_eire

pair of rubber gloves and a vice and its an easy job in my opinion, wheel off,jack the car up,remove the 2 bolts holding the control arm to the subframe(easier than removing the ball joint),then just pull the whole brake disc out like this,

and then tap the whole drive shaft inwards while pulling the brake disc outwards,dont hammer the threads on the shaft tho!! I ended up having to cut a few threads off mine because the nut wouldnt thread back on properly!

leave the nut on the shaft, but protruding,. then use a large Nylon Mallet and hit the nut. Worked for me

As for the Outer Boot, I am donig mine soon, using a Stretchy boot, far less hassle, and the CV joint can stay on. Simply remove the shaft from the hub, cut off old boot, and fit! not done the inner though

ShadeTek · Jun 26th, 2011, 19:46

Quote:

Originally Posted by mattytowel

Failed MOT on split gaiter yesterday, was quoted £60 to repair. Having read Dave's post, I'll keep my hands clean this time.

Only the outer CV gaitors are MOT "failable". Inner ones are not tested weirdly enough.

Lion Heart · Sep 5th, 2016, 16:02

Hey DaveSVolvo

Is yours an automatic?? Did you lose any transmission fluid and have to refill? Was it easy?

I need to do the INNER gaitor on the nearside (V50, 2.0d, automatic)

Thanks!

Sep 12th, 2010, 21:08	#1
pacman67 VOC Member Last Online: Dec 6th, 2023 14:09 Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Richmond N Yorks	Replacing Inner CV boot Can anyone guide me on how difficult it is to replace the front o/s inner CV boot. I presume the whole shaft has to come out etc ? __________________ Regards, pacman67 previously held: V40 TD & S40 2ltr P1,V40 P2 sport lux, V70 XC P1, XC70 P2, V70 D5 P2 and P3, V40 T4,V70R, C30 R Design. currently held: V70 P3 D5 SE LUX, XC90 MK2 Inscription Pro.

Nov 20th, 2010, 09:12	#3
mattytowel Senior Member Last Online: Jul 15th, 2013 12:56 Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Manchester	CV gaiter Failed MOT on split gaiter yesterday, was quoted £60 to repair. Having read Dave's post, I'll keep my hands clean this time. __________________ Ford Focus (poor replacement for the 850 we had) 1987 BMW K75S (long desired, now owned) Dawes hybrid bicycle Yesterday I couldn't spell engineer, now I is one.

Nov 20th, 2010, 10:35	#4
Clan Experienced Member Last Online: Today 08:08 Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: L/H side	yes its a filthy job , best pay someone else to do it ! __________________ My comments are only based on my opinions and vast experience .

Sep 19th, 2010, 22:32	#2
DaveSVolvo New Member Last Online: Jan 18th, 2011 13:20 Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Falkirk	If no-one with direct experience is going to reply to you, I'll stick my oar in. I have just changed an outer, rather than inner, CV joint gaiter but most of the procedure is the same. Yes, the drive shaft has to come out. I found that getting the splined shaft out of the hub was very difficult. Haynes says "tap it out" - I found that a sledge hammer wouldn't budge it! (I think I was particularly unlucky though. While others hint that it can be difficult, I can't believe it is usually that bad.) I eventually made a "pusher" out of an old back brake disc / drum filled with a solid chunk of hardwood drilled 13mm in way of the 5 holes. The idea behind the hardwood insert was to leave the cast iron disc in compression. Screwfix sell a useful pack of 5 X 300mm M12 studs which fitted into the wheel bolt holes in the hub. A lump hammer fitted side on transferred the load from the wood block to the end of the drive shaft (initially with nut on, level with the shaft end until the shaft had been driven in far enough to bottom the nut.) A point to be aware of if you try this or a variation thereof is not to try to fully bottom the studs in the hub and keep an eye in them. If they turn with the driving nuts they are likely to jack the hub apart... If I ever do this job again I will fit a couple of lock nuts to the end of each stud and hold them while tightening the respective drive nut. The other bit I found tricky was getting the shaft to pop out of the transmission, but that was for the near side: for the off side you'll have to take the intermediate bearing out. I haven't done this. I found the geometry of the CV joint fascinating - it's like a metal puzzle and in cleaning it out all 6 big ball bearings and the inner runner pop out. Getting them all back in requires patience. The Volvo repair kit contains grease and new circlips, so you don't have to pay £8 for the latter... Oh, the other bit of fun I found was disconnecting the roll bar drop link. I've just done both sides: one had decent flats at the ball joint to hold with an open spanner while undoing the nut - simple. The other didn't have flats and one nut was horribly tight. Even a mole grip couldn't hold the unflatted shaft and I had to split the nut. These things come with a small torx hole in the end which the assembly instructions tell you to use for counter-torquing. OK with a new part, but with an old rusty one no chance. Good luck!

Nov 20th, 2010, 17:31	#5
darren_eire Senior Member Last Online: Mar 4th, 2021 18:27 Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: dublin	pair of rubber gloves and a vice and its an easy job in my opinion, wheel off,jack the car up,remove the 2 bolts holding the control arm to the subframe(easier than removing the ball joint),then just pull the whole brake disc out like this, and then tap the whole drive shaft inwards while pulling the brake disc outwards,dont hammer the threads on the shaft tho!! I ended up having to cut a few threads off mine because the nut wouldnt thread back on properly!

Jun 26th, 2011, 11:32	#6
shamrock1959 New Member Last Online: Aug 9th, 2011 20:15 Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: kilkenny	Great tip, I think I feel confident now

Sep 5th, 2016, 16:02	#9
Lion Heart Junior Member Last Online: Jul 2nd, 2020 18:42 Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: Worcester	Hey DaveSVolvo Is yours an automatic?? Did you lose any transmission fluid and have to refill? Was it easy? I need to do the INNER gaitor on the nearside (V50, 2.0d, automatic) Thanks!

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