The Morbidmobile Blog

[TomSaintJames]

As i'm upgrading from N/A-->Turbo, instead of spending anymore time/money on these calipers is there any value in upgrading to calpers from a turbo 760/940? That is assuming there is a difference!

[Laird Scooby]

Which bolts did you tighten to 130Nm Tom?

There's a Hanson pre-mix not far from you if memory serves, sometimes depending on how much you need you can sign up to take a rejected load from a building site or similar and it will be a lot cheaper. Almost always the loads are fine but are rejected because a problem has occurred on the building site and they can't take it and have forgotten to cancel. It costs money to dump concrete so if it can be sold on cheap to someone such as yourself (as long as you can take all of it) then it's usually a lot cheaper. Also saves the driver having to chip the stuff out of the barrel........

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by TomSaintJames

As i'm upgrading from N/A-->Turbo, instead of spending anymore time/money on these calipers is there any value in upgrading to calpers from a turbo 760/940? That is assuming there is a difference!

Looking at what you've got there Tom, i'd stick with those. What size are your discs?

[TomSaintJames]

It was the wheel bolts had 130+ NM, the caliper bolts had 200 I have a feeling that I should have checked Hanyes rather than a faceless internet post!

Not sure on disc size Dave, i'll have to measure them when the wheels are off again, certianly not today!

[griston64]

Wheel nuts are 85nm and I think caliper carrier bolts are 100nm

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by TomSaintJames

It was the wheel bolts had 130+ NM, the caliper bolts had 200 I have a feeling that I should have checked Hanyes rather than a faceless internet post!

Not sure on disc size Dave, i'll have to measure them when the wheels are off again, certianly not today!

The wheel nuts should be 81Nm or ~64lbft Tom! You're in danger of snapping the new studs you've just fitted and/or damaging your wheels!


When you slacken them off, do 1/4 turn on each with your breaker bar in sequence, start at one nut go round in a circle missing every other nut giving each 1/4 turn until they are loose.

If you imagine the 5 nuts with one at the very top numbered sequentially round it would be 1, 3, 5, 2, 4, 1, 3, 5, 2, 4 and so on which will release the wheel gradually until loose.

When you tighten them to 64lbft/81Nm, use the same sequence so the wheel is pulled in evenly but make sure you can get the wheel off (measure the discs while they're off! ) before refitting the nuts.

Hopefully you've done no damage at all but perhaps in future check or ask first!

Fairly sure the caliper bolts shouldn't be 200Nm either In fact, i've just checked and they should only be 100Nm (~74lbft) but if memory serves, should have some threadlock compound on.

You probably noticed some blue (maybe red or possibly yellow?) traces on the threads of the caliper bracket bolts?

That would have been the original locking compound, applied at manufacture to create "patch bolts" - the locking compound is inert until activated by fitting. If using the original bolts again, clean off any old compound and use a few drops of new - i think it may be optional on the Volvo caliper brackets but fairly sure at least one of my beasts if not both specify it.

I really hope you didn't mean the caliper guide bolts, they should only be 34Nm or ~25lbft.

Is the original engine still in place? If so that would make it drivable for that show, just not as quick as you would have hoped!

[360beast]

No chance of driving it Dave... I've taken the engine and gearbox out of it!

Tom has bought everything for the conversion from me including an AW71L gearbox from a 1998 940 so he will have to get it up and running on turbo power to get to the show!

Trouble is Tom has the earlier square style gauges so he is going to need a dashboard from a 1991/2 maybe even 1990 740 running lh2.4 to get the gauges to fit.

[TomSaintJames]

Whoops! I'll re-do the torquing tomorrow morning and measure the discs. Thanks for the advice all.

I'd forgotten about the dashboard incompatibility, drat! Once i've got a bit more of an idea of what i'm doing with the Penta engine i'll see about an LH2.4 compatible dashbaord, in blue/black hopefully.

For Dave

[Simmy]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

Which bolts did you tighten to 130Nm Tom?

There's a Hanson pre-mix not far from you if memory serves, sometimes depending on how much you need you can sign up to take a rejected load from a building site or similar and it will be a lot cheaper. Almost always the loads are fine but are rejected because a problem has occurred on the building site and they can't take it and have forgotten to cancel. It costs money to dump concrete so if it can be sold on cheap to someone such as yourself (as long as you can take all of it) then it's usually a lot cheaper. Also saves the driver having to chip the stuff out of the barrel........

i dont think any companys dump concrete any more. they make huge blocks like concrete lego .used to build retaining walls .

[Simmy]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

Which bolts did you tighten to 130Nm Tom?

There's a Hanson pre-mix not far from you if memory serves, sometimes depending on how much you need you can sign up to take a rejected load from a building site or similar and it will be a lot cheaper. Almost always the loads are fine but are rejected because a problem has occurred on the building site and they can't take it and have forgotten to cancel. It costs money to dump concrete so if it can be sold on cheap to someone such as yourself (as long as you can take all of it) then it's usually a lot cheaper. Also saves the driver having to chip the stuff out of the barrel........

i dont think any companys dump concrete any more. they make huge blocks like concrete lego .used to build retaining walls .